mera peak

How much time and money do you have? You need more time than money if you do it wisely.

Make a normal EBC trek first to acclimate. Most commercial groups try to do the climb as fast as possible, Lukla - Mera - Lukla, and do not take their customers to EBC first, which I think is a mistake (unless one has visited EBC already previously). Going to EBC first does not add as many days as you would think, because the approach to Mera can be done faster over Zatrwa La pass instead of using the lower and safer and several days slower route expeditions use (Zatrwa La can not be crossed unacclimatized). Also there need not be so many acclimatization stops further up. In 1985 we hiked from Mera La to summit and down to Thagnak in 4+4 hours, for the same 2.5 days is now allocated by group expeditions. Still their climbers suffer and the success rate is not nearly 100%. We were really well acclimatized.

After visiting EBC meet your guide and porter in Lukla and do the approach over Zatrwa La teahouse style. You will need a tent only for the last camp (or 2 if you choose the standard MBC/High Camp routine). Like I said, we just hiked up from Mera La overnight camp at 5450m to summit in one 4 hour push starting at 0600. Getting back to Lukla takes 2 days from Thagnak. Total time Lukla-Mera-Lukla can be as little as 9 days, possibly even only 8 if all goes perfectly (better plan for more, of course). Again, that requires good pre-acclimatization, can not be done so fast fresh from the plane.

Even if you pay the peak permit between two of you, this should be much cheaper than buying a slot in an expedition, even including the EBC trek part.

Even faster and more adventurous is to cross Amphu Labtsa after EBC visit like we did, it took us only 6 days from Chukhung to Mera to Lukla. You must have previous ice/snow experience and a crazy enough guide and porter to do it this way. Of course speed is not everything, but I just want to point out that fit and well acclimatized people can do things differently from a sluggish group.

I agree with much of what petrus says. The approach via the Amphu Labtsa is a more difficult climb than the ordinary route on Mera and I would not recommend it to an unskilled party. An alternative to the EBC option would be to cross the Lukla/Mera ridge further south than the Zatrwa La. This is a route less traveled and would offer a less crowded alternative to EBC if that is what you prefer. My favorite time for climbing in the Everest region is October/November. It will be getting colder but it will probably be clearer than in spring.

Do some searches on TT for Mera Peak and you will find a great deal of other information. Ask more specific questions and you will get more specific answers.

The two biggest mistakes people make when going to Mera are having not enough time and going with a group with fixed itinerary. I found summiting Mera to be easy and fast. Many stories I hear or read on the Net tell about difficult climbs from the High Camp starting at 2 AM and taking 6 hours to the summit. People are either not acclimatized well enough, or not fit enough, or both. Spending some time at Gokyo/EBC before the Mera attempt, and maybe crossing a couple of high passes would help a lot (Cho La, Kongma La, and ideally Amphu Labtsa).

Making a small group of your own, going mostly teahouse style, is not necessarily more expensive than joining a group, and that way you can set the pace yourself. Either going faster than normal if reacclimatized, or slower if not acclimatizing fast enough.

Again, I agree with petrus. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to consistently climb at about 200m per hour between 5000 and 7000m. I ensure that I am both physically fit and acclimatised enough to do that. That would mean taking about 3 hours to climb from high camp to the summit as there are no technical difficulties to slow you down.

I always climb with a small group of friends. Organised groups can be OK but you need to make sure that they have sufficient spare days to deal with individual differences. That usually means more cost. Problems usually arise with low cost operators who do not do that.

Thanks for the thought..
Iv been wearing la sportiva typhoon since, up until ebc and KP last year.. Will this boots suffice or do i need a real mountain boots due to snow? Any idea on equipment?

The Typhoons, IMO, are completely unsuitable for climbing Mera, although they would be fine for the walk in. The last time I was on Mera we had to help a UK climber down. He had frostbite due to using a similar pair of boots. Mera is nearly 6500m and requires a pair of properly insulated boots. I use Asolo 8000s but there are many other double boots that will do the job. You can rent suitable boots in KTM if your feet are not too big. Your guide should be able to help with this.

Regarding equipment. You will need a rope. 50m between three will do. Each of you will need an ice axe and crampons. Prussik loops, Google it, are also necessary even though the chances of you falling into a crevasse are remote. A climbing harness and helmet would definitely be desirable but they are not absolutely essential. A headlight is needed for before-dawn starts. 30+ sunscreen and lip slave. 1l water bottle. Glacier glasses or googles (not sun glasses). Camping equipment - depending on how you plan to operate.

Regarding clothing. You do not need anything expensive. Use the layer system. Use a wicking layer next to the skin. Next wear two layers of fleece (one light and one medium weight) - one on the legs is OK. Over that have a windproof layer. Waterproof is best but it rarely rains on Mera. However it may on the walk in. Gortex is the standard here. Whatever you use it must breath reasonably well to avoid condensation. Wear as many layers as you need at the time. A wooly hat, a sun hat, and two pairs of mitts (not gloves) - one windproof. Opinions vary on socks. I use a pair of light liners and a pair of heavy wool socks. A down jacket is ideal for cold mornings/evenings but you are unlikely to climb in one.

You can buy or rent most of all this in KTM.

I agree with mitzimeow on his equipment advice. For boots, you want a plastic double boot. The Lowa Civetta fits my foot well so this is what I use when climbing 6000 m peaks. http://www.lowaboots.com/catalog/civetta/1133900774/1 If you have access to similar boots and they fit you, I'd bring them from home. Otherwise, you can rent them in KTM. Same with crampons. I've looked at crampon rentals in Chukhung , and they were pretty junky. You want to get outfitted in KTM.

If the weather is good you could summit Mera with good hiking boots (leather kind) with thick socks. If the conditions are bad, double plastics or insulated climbing boots (La Sportiva Nepal Top or similar) are safer. You should be able to make it to the mountain with light boots or trail runners, rent double plastics for the climbing part. Boots should be big enough to hold liners and thick wool socks. You feet will also swell at altitude, so take 1/2 -1 size bigger than normal.