Gokyo-Cho La-EBC: tent trek or lodges?

When in Rome.... You will be tenting in Lodge yards and not really getting away from the people noise etc. Why not do this trip as a teahouse trek. The expedition style is great in areas not as touristy. I have been around Manalsu and Ganesh himal tenting and it is a wonderful expereience. I think given the current situation with the maoists there are never as many trekkers as pre 9-11 so I am sure you will get double rooms without a problem.

It is funny when trekking in Khumbu or Annapurna region you see people camping just near all those lodges paying a lot of money to sleep in their small tents during cold and windy or even rainy and sometimes snowy nights... I guess the only reason agencies do it is that they charge huge amount of money from camping trekkers which they will not get if they stay in lodges.
It is much more comfortable to stay in lodges. Because of the situation in Nepal there are less tourists in general there and lodges are not completely full even during the main season. To be sure to get the rooms just send your guide ahead to book rooms for you (you dont need him to show you the route since it is obvious, except maybe across Cho la).
I did a lot of camping treks where no lodges are available but I would never camp where I can stay in the lodge (and it is not just because of the money).
It is a nice trek - dont miss upper part of Gokyo valley up to Cho Oyu base camp (remote area, more lakes, great views, huge mountains&glaciers including Everest, day trip from Gokyo lodges at 3rd lake, good for acclimatisation before crossing Cho la). Also consider to go to Chukung - just one day from Lobuche.

I’ve often been one of those people in the trekking group where the agency has pitched the tents nearby – they often do this for the cooking facilities, which they rent from the lodge.

I can see the point made about lodges, they are certainly cosy places to be in the evenings when taking a meal and having a chat with others. But for sleeping, I have got quite used to being in a tent and find the camping side of things quite pleasant – once you’ve got used to being in a tent its quite a familiar place to be. Mad I maybe, but when we were camped near some lodges at Lobuche and it was snowing hard, I opted for the tent whilst some others paid for rooms. I reckon it was warmer in the tent than in the lodge because there is no heating in the lodge rooms and there is more air space to heat. In the tent the snow acted as a form of insulation and there is less circulating air. One of the tricks with camping is to leave some air space by opening the flysheet a bit to prevent condensation.

I agree with #3 about making the most of Gokyo and getting along to Chukung. Been to both areas and enjoyed them.

Dave

My photography in the Himalayas

During my Everest trek I also wondered why people sleep in tents while there are lodges everywhere.
I prefer lodges.
There are lodges in Chukung too. From Chukung you can hike up to 5400 meters (Chukung Ri, the summit is even higher) where you will have a good view of Makalu.

Thnx all four of you for the advice -
- I guess I'll reconsider my in-going assumption that tent trek is the way to go in Khumbu... I was looking for more "private" trekking experience but if I'd be to tent in the lodge yards - what's the benefit then...

One more thing - which of the options is more flexible in terms of choosing the village to sleep in, if we feel stronger or weaker during the day?

Indy,

You gotta hear me on this: Stay in the lodges! I paid big bucks to camp, and I froze my arse off even in 2 expedition weight down sleeping bags!! Bring some emergency back up granola bars for the days when the cooking in the teahouses may not be your "thing"... That is your only "risk", the cooking. Other than that, they are WARMER, way cozier, and WARMER than sleeping outside! Only Loboche was it potentially scary to be in a lodge... The bathroom is totally disgusting there... and I'm sure it's not as crowded as when I was there in 2001. So your only downside is Loboche and possibly a bad cook if you go the teahouse route. But there's always garlic soup in a pinch. It's pretty hard to screw that up! Better yet, bring some Lipton and you will have it just about covered! Seriously, camping is kinda stupid now that I know the ropes, I wouldn't do it!

Camille
USA

There are lodges in about every small village, and the villages are often not more than one or two hours hiking from each other. So if you are strong or weak on a particular day, you can just choose the lodge in the village you want to stay in. Monjo or Pakding, Deboche or Tengboche, upper or lower Pangboche, Periche or Dingboche, Dukla or Lobuche or Gorak Shep, it is up to you, there is plenty of choice.