Enter custom title (optional)
This topic is locked
Last reply was
1.5k

Just wanted to write to have a bit of a grumble and warn others about the "Walking in France" guidebook's representation of its Chemin de St-Jacques Highlight walk.

My wife and I found the walk a particular disappointment because, during the actual walking, there was next to nothing in terms of significant natural beauty or cultural interest which merited the effort and expense (particularly in terms of opportunity cost, given we'd travelled from Australia for a short holiday). Yes, the forests, farming land and odd hamlet through which the walk passed did have some pleasing moments, but certainly nothing to warrant six days and 160kms! Yes, the walk passes through significant historical towns, but these are reached at the end of (a usually long) day, not during the day.

Our suggestion is that unless you have a religious interest in doing this walk, simply like walking long distances for its own sake, or live nearby and want something to do on the weekend, then walk somewhere else. If you particularly want to see the towns along the walk then hire a car.

I've done a fair bit of walking and mountaineering both in France and elsewhere and really wonder how the authors came to include this walk in the guide, let alone as one of their two highlight walks in France. Further, it's hard to believe it's just a matter of taste - my taste almost invariably matches the authors' tastes for the other walks I've done out of this France guidebook. Further, during the walk we also discovered that there had been alternative routes which we could have taken, had we known, that did go through beautiful countryside and towns (during the day). How did the authors miss such an obvious possibility for making the walk interesting to their readership - people who want to walk in beautiful and interesting places?

In the end, we did something we've never done before. We pulled out of a walk (at the end of day 4). France has much better walks and places to be than this.

Report
1

I can understand you writing this, and agree with it. You very well summarize it in your third paragraph. When you've been to several great mountain ranges the camino is not to be done for its natural or scenic beauty (go to the pyrenees or alps for that). Some of the towns are nice, but indeed you get there in the evening. I also pulled out but only after 14 days! :-) But dont blame the guide book. I should be clear that the camino is more of a social or spiritual (finding yourself) kind of walk. That is why I now look back at those two weeks with a good feeling because of the people I met and the bonds created with some of them. I also got some really nice photos out of it (although no impressive mountains or so). All the best.

Report
2

I wonder which segments of the Chemin St. Jacques did you walk?

During my cross country walk through the Pyrenees, sometimes on GR-10, sometimes on the French segments of the Chemin St. Jacques, and also on the GR-65, known as the Cathar Path, I walked some 760 kms, but none of it would be characterized as boring or routine.

The Pyrenees Pilgrimage route is varied and isn't really the provenance of any particular spiritual discipline. The way I see it, Catholics are relative newcomers to the Pyrenees region, which has been settled -- and cultured -- for tens of thousands of years. Study the archeological finds, the marvelous painted stone walls in caves, the burial goods, standing stones, and so on.

I guess it depends on the person. Expectations set us up for disappointment! There is wonder and magic everywhere for those who look and see.

Best of luck on your future hikes.

Edited by: peatravelwriter

Report
3

Jumping off points? Has anyone left or begun from St Jean de Luz? I'm considering going there for a vacation, but also want to do the Chemin Trail? Easy to get to? Any feedback would be appreciated. We've booked a wonderful apt on the beach for June.

Report
Pro tip
Lonely Planet
trusted partner