They charge 300,000 for the boat to Danau Tempe (3 persons). I asked the guy who walked us to the boat “How can I go to Polewali?” and his answer was: “We have a car you can charter for 900,000 that can take you to Rantepao”.
Admission to the lake (5,000) was included in the price. The boat ride was very pleasant if you are a birdwatcher with binoculars. The nets the fishermen used reminded me of those in Kerala. Luckily there was a rowing competition with many competitors (the prize was a motorbike) and a lot of spectators.
Then we visited the floating village. To tell you the truth it was not what we expected and were disappointed. There were less than 10 houses. We stopped at one, had some fried bananas and tea, saw the house and the fish drying out in the sun and then left. The guides of the two other boats that stopped at the same house gave their guests some information.
If it weren’t for the competition I would consider the trip a tourist trap.
The best way to go to Polewali according to Anton was via Pare Pare.
I stumbled upon a woman who spoke very good English as I asked directions for the Chinese restaurant Tomudi (just OK food). By chance I asked her if there was direct transport to Polewali. She called a driver, got the number of another one who would go the next morning to Polewali (80,000) and arranged for him to pick us up at 9am from the guesthouse. We couldn’t believe our luck.
The mosques gave us a special treatment that night. Earplugs could do nothing.
Polewali
The driver arrived at 9.15 after I had people calling him a couple of times to make sure he wouldn’t forget. We picked two girls and then waited for a woman. Not only we waited for her to get ready but also to do her errands. We stopped even at Tomudi restaurant for her to pick up some food. We were so upset (we left at 10.30) I didn’t let her take my picture. A small revenge for all that waiting. The other passengers had a good laugh when upon asked I explained to them why I did that.
We made a stop at Sidrap to collect other passengers (at some point we were 4 persons in the middle row, really uncomfortable) and then at Pinrang for lunch.
Approaching Polewali the landscape became beautiful as Mamasa’s cloudy mountains could be seen.
We arrived just before 3pm. The driver had said he could cover the distance in 2.30 hours! Oh yeah! We could have continued to Mamasa as there were drivers waiting for passengers.
We stayed at Ratih Hotel which was worth the extra money (462,000) compared to the nearby Lilianto where the windowless superior room was 330,000. No discount at either one. We had a very big room with great view to the mountains. The swimming pool was relaxing after the trip. The vegan dishes they prepared for us at breakfast were awful but sambal fixed it.
The town makes a good and relaxing stop. We walked to the beach where the food stalls had already been set. We had a big delicious dinner for 70,000 (three dishes plus rice) at Tujuh Bakul which had great views from the upper floor.
Mamasa
At 8am a very friendly driver picked us from the hotel for the almost 3 hour comfortable trip to Mamasa (80,000) as the taxi was not full. We enjoyed the scenery and the food we shared with some field workers when we stopped at Samarossong. It was fun as by that time I had learned a lot of Indonesian phrases and made them laugh.
The Anoa Guesthouse at the entrance of the town offers rooms without windows (300,000) and bigger ones with views (350,000 discounted to 300,000). We got a big one where the local governor stays when in town. There was no hot water though. The governor must be a tough guy. Wi-fi only at the reception. Michael, the son, speaks excellent English and can arrange ojeks to take you to nearby villages.
We walked to Rante Bunta to see the tongkonan, then to muddy Kole with the traditional houses. We lost the path to Loko, from where we wanted to continue to Taupe. It was good since it started to rain. We got wet and to avoid the rain we rushed to Tian Jawa Indah Restaurant which has good views to the rice fields; the food was rather disappointing. It took a lot of time to make the waiter understand what food we didn’t eat.
Osango is mentioned in my LP as the site of tedong tedong. We asked many people there who didn’t know about any tedong tedong outside of Buntu Balla. Vehicles that go to Polewali can drop you off at Buntu Balla. Ojeks charged 50,000.
We hitched a ride with a policeman. The tedong tedong was locked and didn’t see anything. The road to Balla Peu with the view to the valley is steep. I kept wondering how the ojeks manage to go there. It took us 90 min. to walk there and an hour back.
The taxi we took back to Mamasa charged us 10,000 each.
I was given the number of a guy named Anda (081342418862) who travels to Rantepao and had asked Michael to call him and arrange for our transport. So when we returned he told me the driver would pick us up tomorrow at 7.30am. He also told me that they have a bar/restaurant (the entrance is from the side) and his sister is a chef. The place was very cozy and pleasant so we asked her to cook some dishes for us.
After resting a little bit we walked towards Tawalian (25,000 by ojek) that seemed longer than 3 km. There are a few traditional houses and a granary. You will be asked for a donation. The road to Orobua seemed endless and we got very tired. Nice scenery again and many tongkonans older and new. Also some burials just before the village. We got a (paid) ride back.
At the hotel’s restaurant we had a Lucullan repast for 60,000. And yes, the sister was a chef and got our sincere compliments. Big portions of bumbu kari, tempeh rendang, tahu isi, cah kankung, nasi putih and tamarillo juice. We were in heaven.
Rantepao
Our driver was nice and very careful as the road was very bad. The scenery was beautiful.
I didn’t expect to find a room at Pia’s Poppies (220,000; no breakfast) but it was not so busy. The room at the new wing is big with a fine bathroom.
Opposite is Hotel Pison with similar prices but not so good rooms (at least the one I checked).
We also checked Madarana Hotel. They offered us a huge room with TV and breakfast for 300,000 while online it was 350,000 without breakfast.
The meal we had at Aras Café (the original not the new one) was tasteless.
We also had dinner at Pia’s Poppies. Vegetable curry, tempeh and tahu rendang (with almost no sauce). Although the food was good, the portions were small. Sambal was brought in a tiniest plate. We had to ask for more rice so we wouldn’t leave the table hungry. Make sure Bintang is cold before they serve it.
At the hotel I had the chance to get valuable information from a couple who had started from the North and advised me to get in touch with Noni from Victory Hotel (victorytentena@yahoo.com) in Tentena, our next destination. I shouldn’t take the bus as it takes at least 13 hours. Normal price for the taxi is 1,500,000. If a driver has to return then it’s 1,000,000 for a night trip or 800,000 for a day trip. If I’m not mistaken the bus costs 130,000 and a more comfortable company with less seats charges 180,000.
I thought I would have an uninterrupted sleep as it’s not a Muslim territory. How naïve I was! First it was the cocks (being trained for fights?) and then the nearby big church. No, it was not a Sunday. At around 5am we heard music and then a long sermon. There was no escape.
In the morning I called the guide the couple used for a funeral but he was unavailable. What about Saturday? I asked. No, there are no funerals during the weekend he answered. I don’t understand why he lied to me, as I met many people who went to a funeral during the weekend.
I was concerned in case he was right as I didn’t want to stay longer in Rantepao, a big disappointment for my husband who had heard people speaking very highly about the area. So I asked at the hotel to get me in touch with a good guide.
