Introduction:
Safety & road blocks
Money exchange
Language
Sim Cards and airtime
Budget accommodations & restaurant reviews
Sights plus getting there & away
Beirut, Tripoli and the north-coast, Beqaa: Zahlé, Taanayel, Aanjar and Rashaya plus Saida
Introduction:
The small country is like a microcosmos of the Middle East regarding politics and religion and it’s buzzling with people and vehicles. Watch your step while walking; car drivers only stop if your shinbone is 10cm in front of their bumper. It’s best to meet the often jovial Lebanese on a spontaneous base, rendezvous are a hit and miss affair. Having travelled in Lebanon some years before I feel like there is much more traffic, buildings and people nowadays.
Safety – road blocks:
I never felt threatened or unsafe anywhere in the country but feeling safe is often also a personal affair. There are a few road blocks but the car I was in was never stopped.
An examining magistrate told me that in the last years the crime rate went up by 90% in the Beqaa. The Lebanese Army is trying however their best to keep up with the illusion of safety in the country but locals with a certain in-depth knowledge told me that whatever someone with a bad intention wants to happen will happen. However this is also true for the opposite.
The question is what to expect from the 75th government (in 75 years)?
Money exchange
1 USD is roughly 1’500 Lebanese Pound (LP). The LP is pegged to the USD.
You can pay directly with USD, bring small notes (USD 5’s and 10’s) but for larger bills I prefer to exchange USD into Lebanese Pound at one of the countless exchange offices or even at small supermarkets as they often need USD to pay for goods.
Small denominations:
Always keep a stash of LP 1’000’s in your pocket for bus and service taxi fairs.
Language:
Many people speak French (often 40+) and English (all ages but often the younger ones).
Sim Cards and airtime:
People told me Alfa is the brand of choice but it’s a rather expensive affair compared to many other countries.
I had to buy an unregistered Sim Card for USD 6 (because it was a holiday and the Alfa stores were closed). Registered ones cost USD 3.
Airtime is USD 0.25 per min and SMS is USD 0.05 to all lines within Lebanon.
Internet is USD 10 extra for 1.5 GB (not sure any more about the quantity.)
A strange thing is that they have Sim cards which stay activated for just a couple of days.
I got one that was valid for 10 days because the guy in the hole-in-the-wall-shop didn’t have any others. You may have the chance to recharge them again to keep them running a bit longer.
Budget accommodation reviews:
Beirut:
The Grand Meshmosh Hotel, phone: 01 562 509
St. Nicholas stairs, Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh.
Michel, the owner did a great job when he started converting this abandoned building in a great location 3 years ago, as it became already something of an institution in Gemmayzeh.
Wifi is free and there is a great breakfast buffet with a Lebanese touch included in the room price. The cosy sitting area inside is on the small side but there is also a larger sitting area outside. Coffees, drinks and simple meals are available as well.
Dorms are USD 24 – 26. Each of the dorms features a bathroom. Beds are full size and the upper bed is high above the lower one, made for giraffes on the lower level and for gibbons on the upper part.
Standart twins go for USD 58 – 64 / Standart singles from USD 44 – 48 / Triple rooms for USD 72 – 80 / Executive rooms USD 66 – 72, incl. bathroom / Family rooms, 4 pers. USD 111 – 121 / Small suite USD 135 – 144 / Rooftop big suite, 4 pers. USD 140 – 148.
Hostel Beirut, phone 01 568 966 Reception is open from 08.30 – 19.30.
Near the busy bar street section on Armenia road and above the Vendome stairs towards the left. Look for directions on its website or google maps.
Dorms are just USD 20 and they have 2 rooms across the street.
These large rooms have their own bathroom and feature either 2 single mattresses or 1 large double mattress plus a single one. They are basic but good value for the money (USD 30 for 1 pers. / USD 25 for 2). Wifi is available at both places free of charge. Breakfast is on the small side with Zatar bread and tea/coffee. When I crashed in one of the rooms it seemed to be a never ending party atmosphere both at the hostel with NGO workers and more of the same in the sitting area in front of the 2 rooms. Armenia Street is a 5 min walk away.
Tripoli/Trablous:
The cheapest options are right in the centre of town and just a 2 min walk from the clock tower. Leave the clock tower (on your left side) and walk eastwards. After passing the large covered outdoor Café Fahim, Pension Haddad is in the first tiny alley on your right and the Hotel El Koura with better rooms is in the following alley to the right.
Pension Haddad: Tel +961 3 507 709 / +961 6 427 672
It’s a very basic affair with the Christian Haddad family being your hosts.
They have 7 rooms in total including one dorm for USD 10 per pers.
Rooms cost USD 15 for 1 pers. / USD 25 for 2 and USD 30 for 3 pers. Shared bathroom, Wifi is free. No breakfast available but maybe a Nargileh in the evenings.
Hotel El Koura: Tel. +961 3 371 041 / +961 6 425 451 Owner: Pierre Jabbour
This place is also Christian owned, again a simple affair but with slightly better quality rooms.
Dorms are USD 15, a nice double goes for USD 25 per pers., and triples are USD 20 per pers.
Single occupancy for the rooms is plus USD 5.
A small breakfast is included in the price. Wifi is free of charge.
If you feel hungry go to eat excellent hummus at Foul Masri, opposite and diagonal to the clock tower.
If you feel like having an afternoon or early evening Nargileh there are 100’s of places. I’d recommend Resto & Café Continental on Tall Street, facing ABC. It’s about 150m onwards from the 2 Hotels mentioned above on the main road. It features a small balcony great for people watching and a big friendly indoor restaurant.
Bekaa – Taanayel,
Arc en Ciel, +961 3 124 279 / +961 8 544 881 Email: ecolodge@arcenciel.org
Arc en Ciel is a well-known NGO that runs the “Ecolodge de Taanayel” with the Al Khan al Makssoud restaurant on its ground.
So – Thu: US 40 per pers./night - Fri & Sat: US 50 per pers./night.
I could manage to get a clearly lower price during the week but I still ask myself why this place has a hostel sign. The manager responsible for the place told me there is no dorm but hostel sites mention there is one. Call ahead for a security update and inquire for discounts.
The restaurant on site is ok, in winter there is an ever burning fire that might create head-ache after some hours.
The room I was in had an attached bathroom and about 5 places to sleep. It’s basically like the old style houses where everybody sits around the oven on the ground. At night these sitting places turn into sleeping places by putting an additional mattress on top. Each room features a petrol fuelled oven which may be a bit smelly.
How to get there: From the Bourj Hammoud Taxi Stand at the Dowra roundabout, opposite Maison M, you’ll find shared taxis to Chtoura for LP 10’000 per seat, plus 1h. Chtoura – Taanayel is by minibus, LP 1’000, 5 Min. Tell the driver in the minibus that you are heading to “Arc en Ciel” and they’ll know where to drop you. Cross the road, it’s about a 4 min walk to the accommodation, passing the large Arc en Ciel building before. You may want to enquire about their projects once there.
Saida/Sidon:
Couvent de Terre Sainte et Paroisse Latine
If you see this sign, head up the stairs and it’s the door on your left.
8 rooms, USD 25 per person.
Next door to the Ecole Nationale de Saida – in the Souq, 3 min to the Corniche road.
Kathia, Cell: +961 70 668 398
