Just a few observations for those overlanders who wish to travel on the road from Europe to Africa or the other way round. I did the Bissau to Malaga stretch last November. The LP West Africa was quite disappointing in terms of practical info. Haven't been updated for a while it seems.
Arrived in Bissau and stayed at Pensao Creola. Centrally located, decent value for money, clean and comfy. No A/C but a working fan. ATM to withdraw money was working fine, there are a few restaurants here and there, some hidden among the roads out of the centre of town. Food is nice. Variety of little supermarkets and shops where to stock up. Interesting city with remnants of the Portuguese colonial past.
Took the ferry to the Bijagos Islands and stayed at Casa Dora on Bubaque. The rooms are in need of a brush up but the food is excellent and the owner Gloria friendly and helpful. Good value for money. Due to overbooking we couldn’t stay at the Bubaque Island Hotel, despite having paid 30% in advance. After arriving at the hotel we were offered a dirty, smelly room in the back of the hotel for a hefty 100€ a night. We had agreed for one of the newish rooms in the front but they were already given to other clients. We then tried the Dakosta Island Beach Camp but for the simple no fuss bungalow with breakfast they asked an outrageous 120€ a night. Dinner is expensive too. Then it’s better is to go to Ponte Anchaca Hotel which is expensive but top class.
We still enjoyed the island and our tour around it. Very green, peaceful and idyllic.
Three times a week there is a direct bus going to Banjul in The Gambia from Bissau. It’s on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I skipped Casamance in Senegal although many travellers reported it’s beautiful. It might be worth a stop. I hated the Gambian coastline. Cheap holiday resorts where 70something old Europeans walk around with 20 something old Africans. Loads of drug sellers too. Don’t want to sound judgemental but not my cup of tea at all.
At least once a day there is a bus from Banjul to Dakar where I spent a little while. Interesting city with things to do and places to explore. I stayed at Agora, a private house with art gallery and three guest rooms. Very clean and proper. Nice owner too. Onto to St Louis, another attractive city with a heritage of colonial buildings. Stayed at Hotel de la Poste where I got a good deal.
Mauritania Border: After having read all the horror stories about the Rosso border I decided to cross at Djama. Rented a taxi from St. Louis till the border where the official in charge wanted to send me back because I was crossing without my own vehicle. He was really more concerned about my safety than anything else since it seems like there is no public transport on the other side. A bit of chitchat and persuasive work convinced him in the end and made it easy and hassle free to cross. He also talked to a minibus (the only one) driver to secure me a seat till Nouakchott. I reckon it shouldn’t be a problem to hitchhike from the border till the capital and maybe in the near future there might even be more minibuses doing the journey.
Spent a few days in Nouakchott at a friend’s place. Loved the fishing village just on the outskirts of town.
Took a minibus to Nouadhibou and explored the ship grave. Scenic. Stayed at Baie du Levrier, pretty basic.
There is a bus connection from Nouadhibou to Daklha in Western Sahara. You have to change at the border. The driver will bring you till the Moroccan side of the border through no mans land. All easy and hassle free. Had to wait a couple of hours there for the bus to leave to Daklha where there are plenty of overland transport options onwards. I took the overnight 24 hours bus to Marrakech and from there via train to Tangiers and onto the ferry to Algeciras (due to bad weather ferries wouldn’t dock at Tarifa).
On the whole it’s been a hassle free trip, people were pleasant, nice and helpful. That’s what made the difference. Less so in Morocco but I knew that having been there a few times. Transport wise very easy, accommodation rather on the expensive side and not that good value for money if compared to Asia and South America. No danger felt at any time really. Chinguetti, where I haven’t been, is safe to visit according to all the locals and expats I met in Nouakchott.
My favourite was definitely Guinea Bissau, laid back atmosphere, gentle people and the feeling to be stranded somewhere out of this world.
