I have just returned home to Ireland after a week long solo trip where my main aim was climb Toubkal. First of all i got lots of great info on Thorn Tree so thanks to everyone who gave me info. This was my 3rd trip to Morocco so the main part of the trip was spent in Atlas Mountains with a day either side in Marrakesh.

• Marrakesh
  This was my 2nd trip to Marrakesh so I had no need to visit the tourist sites. I am into my photography so i just spent my 2 days here wandering around taking photos and relaxing. I stayed in 2 different Riads, Riad Eva (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g293734-d4114880-r587002810-Riad_Eva-Marrakech_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html) and Riad Hna Ben Salah (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g293734-d9785850-r589176539-Riad_Ben_Saleh-Marrakech_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html). Both good options within walking distance of Jemaa el Fna. When i arrived i got the number 19 bus from airport to Jemaa el Fna, this costs 30 MAD return(€2.70). The bus is easy to find (go out of arrivals across the road to the taxi rank car park and bus leaves from end of car park) and takes about 30 minutes. It departs (every 30 minutes, i think) from the bus stop at Place de Foucauld (green area between Jemaa el Fna and the Koutoubia Mosque). The one difference I noticed on my time in Marrakesh this time compared to my first trip was the increased hassle i got from locals as I wandered around, maybe because i was on my own i was seen as an easy target. Every road i walked was 'closed', 'nothing to see there' or a 'bad road'. One teenager wanted to fight me for money after he gave me directions by walking in front of me for 5 minutes and after i did get one guy to show me around the Tanneries he demanded 200 MAD (€18), when I refused saying that was way too much he gathered 4 other men around which was quite intimidating as we haggled over a price, i ended up giving 150 MAD (€13) so i could just walk away. If you are walking around especially on your own and are approached just politely decline and keep walking and say you know where you are going. For meals in Marrakesh i ate in small restaurants off Jemma el Fna which cost between 50 - 80 MAD (€4.50 - 7) with a large water. Eating in the food stalls in Jemaa el Fna at night is a great experience and there is a great atmosphere but just be careful with what you order as very often they will put extra food (eg plate of veg or couscous) down and then charge you for it.

• Imlil
  From Marrakesh i got a mini bus to Imlil (quoted 50, then 60 by driver, payed 70 and got no change). I think they depart (when full) from near Rue Sidi Mimoun (again a short walk from Jemma el Fna near the Koutoubia Mosque). This trip took 3 hours (changed buses in Asni where we waited 40 minutes) and as far as Tahanaoute there was 35 passengers on the 18 seater bus. Imlil is a fantastic little village and is the gateway for climbing Toubkal. It is an alcohol free village and with my trip there during Ramadan was completely dead, the village was in complete darkness from 8pm and it seemed only one restaurant was ever open at night. I stayed at Riad Jnane Imlil (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g488109-d6387606-r587930316-Riad_Jnane_Imlil-Imlil_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html). I arrived in Imlil 2 days before I intended to climb Toubkal in order to do a warm up trek and maybe to meet other people who also wanted to climb Toubkal. My warm up trek was up to Tizi n' Tamatert and onto the village of Ouaneskra with a detour into the mountains for a bit of scrambling. This trek can be done along a winding zig zagging road though there are mule trails which can be followed which cut directly uphill.

-Toubkal
My intention was to climb Toubkal solo without a guide, maybe hoping to join up with other climbers that i met. As I have trained as a Mountain Leader many years ago and have trekked in different parts of the world I began to have second thoughts about going solo, as it goes against all the safety rules i would always stick to. All my research said that it could be done solo especially by experienced trekkers so in the end i went off solo (also because I didnt meet anyone else in Imlil as it was very quiet) . Day 1 is the 12k trek from Imlil to Refuge Toubkal (3,207 metrers). This is all along an easy to follow trail. There is a height gain of 1500 metres so can be tough going especially in the afternoon heat. The first section past the village of Armoud and along the valley floor is easy enough and then you begin to ascend till you reach Sidi Chamharouch (a few shops selling water (10 MAD) orange juice (20 MAD) and chocolate (10 MAD) and seats where you can rest in the shade). The next section where the ascent becomes steeper until you reach the last shop/rest stop about and hour from the Refuge is what i found to be the toughest. The last hour onto the Refuge the trails flattens out a bit and is easier going. It took me 5 and a half hours to reach the Refuge. The Refuge is basic but comfortable. I payed 235 MAD (€21) for my dorm bed with dinner and breakfast. Dinner is good (soup, bread, couscous, fruit and tea) and a good way to meet other climbers. There were many others going solo so I felt better knowing now that i would meet others on the trail. You can have a shower for 10 MAD (not much water pressure and lukewarm but still needed after the days trek). The dorms begin to empty after 2 in morning as the guided groups set out early to summit for sunrise. I left at 6 am and took 3 hrs 40 minutes to get to summit. There is an obvious trail on the ascent and you can use the other climbers above you as markers on the trail. The climb is steep and tough and I did go very slowly and took many breaks. The descent (took me 2 hours 20 minutes) on the scree and loose rocks is also tough and dangerous there is risk of slipping and you do need full concentration on the way down. Remember this a 4000 metre peak and should not be underestimated, it is a tough climb and you will need to have a decent level of fitness. I was told that there has been 6 deaths on the mountain this year and at the refuge there is a sombre memorial to young English man who died while descending. I did see one French woman fall and damage her ankle/knee and had to be carried down the mountain. If you are not an experienced trekker it would be advisable to hire a guide. In terms of Altitude Sickness luckily i didn't suffer anything (i did suffer with it before and it is not something i want to experience again) but i did meet others who had slight headaches and felt a little nauseous. The important thing is to go slow and take on plenty of water. Don't forget after the tough climb up and back down to the refuge you still have the 12k trek back to Imlil ahead of you. The trek back took me 2 hours 50 minutes after which I slept nearly right through till the next morning. In the morning i took a Grand Taxi back to Marrakesh, was luck that i was able to share with 3 other climbers i had met on Toubkal for a price of 80 MAD (€7.20).

-Budget for the week long trip
Accommodation €185
Meals (12 meals) €75
Water/soft drinks/chocolate €21
Transport €14
2 Wool hats (presents) €18
Morocco Football Jersey €15
Tips €15
Haircut & Shave €3.5
Tanneries Guide €13

Total spend €360 approx

hello there!

i read pretty much information here, and i learned much information! thank you guys!

i bought the newest LP of PNG(2016), sadly most of the agency information looks outdated,
most of the website link is not working. (i tried to call through skype, but it cost 1 USD/ 1 min from my region)

i plan to visit Ashro tribe, Skeleton people Tribe, and few other distinctive tribes. (for photo shooting purpose)

can any one recommend guide/ tour agency based in Goroka?

i read the information, there is a tour agency called "Goroka Trek & Tours", which is located inside the Bird of paradise hotel. but it looks someone bought their website domain, so its not "goroka trek & tours" anymore.

are they still there? is that very expensive for their service? (coz they are located in a luxury hotel)

thanks in advance!

Ed

Hi fellow travelers!
Can someone recommend a desert camp near Merzouga? Not too large and a little further away from the crowds. We are planning to only stay for one night, so it doesn’t have to be cheap, but has to be nice and cosy. We’re a family of 4 and are interested in campfire and camel riding, but no silly action like dune bashing. LP is raving about Ali & Sarah’s, has anyone stayed there recently. And PLEASE no responses from ‘faux guides’. Merci!
Jan

I'll be in Morocco for almost two weeks next month. I've drafted the itinerary below and would appreciate any tips on how to improve it.

Some facts first...

1) I'm a reasonably fit M/36

2) I'll be travelling with a large suitcase on wheels due to a subsequent trip

3) I prefer not to drive in Morocco but will consider renting a car for a max of 2 days if necessary

4) I can extend my stay by a day if need be

5) I'm not interested in visiting the desert, Rabat or Casablanca

Friday 08/09/2017 Marrakech - arrive @ 9AM after 9hrs of travel

Saturday 09/09/2017 Marrakech

Sunday 10/09/2017 Marrakech > Essaouira

Monday 11/09/2017 Essaouira > Marrakech

Tuesday 12/09/2017 Marrakech > Ait Benhadou

Wednesday 13/09/2017 Ait Benhadou > Marrakech

Thursday 14/09/2017 Marrakech > Fez

Friday 15/09/2017 Fez

Saturday 16/09/2017 Fez

Sunday 17/09/2017 Fez > Checfhaouen

Monday 18/09/2017 Chefchaouen

Tuesday 19/09/2017 Chefchaouen > Tangier

Wednesday 20/09/2017 Tangier > Tarifa

Some questions...

1) Can someone kindly specify the best (in terms of price vs convenience) means of transport for travelling between the places mentioned above (bus/train/taxi)

2) Is Ait Benhaddou still worth visiting after the damage caused by the 2015 floods?

3) If I add an extra day and perhaps eliminate Ait Benhaddou, would I be able to fit in a trek in the Todra Gorge? Is it safe to go there by myself?