thanks for the excellent advice!

and thanks for confirming my suspicions about san juan del sur. do you know if there are any good beaches near it? ometepe is conveniently close, so it would be cool to see both in 1 trip.

puerto viejo talamanca is very close to bocas del toro. it looks like bocas is easier to get to. i only have 1 week of vacation (november 17-26) from my corporate life, so id like to minimize travel time. so that will probably rule out puerto viejo talamanca and the nicoya peninsula, unfortunately. but ill look into tamarindo! i know im asking a lot.

also, ive read that costa rica is noticeably more expensive than nicaragua and panama.

I want to go to Ometepe but it seems a bit complicated without a car and luggage to reach Santa Cruz, i read to rent a quad bike, but where do i put the luggage, it is a bit of a drag.

Ometepe is extremely easy to reach from Granada by chicken bus, no problem with luggage and without car. Maybe 1.5 hours to Rivas, then a bus or taxi to the San Jorge ferry landing. Then you take the ferry, and a bus across the island, arriving late afternoon if you leave Granada in the morning. Ometepe island is worth the effort, and you can rent a motorbike on the island if you want.

We are not beach people, we love the mountain, but also we don't want to go to every single volcanos, after seeing the ones around granada and eventually the ones in ometepe, we will be volcanoes-out.

You probably want to go up to Matagalpa or Jinotega in the mountain region, well north of Managua. That would take one full travel day starting from Ometepe. And once there, you'll likely need to hire a guide if you want more than a short trek in the mountains. if you can afford that, it's just a gorgeous mountain region with almost no tourists.

Santa Domingo

But you should plan at least 3 nights on Ometepe, hard to get much accomplished or enjoy the islands in 2 nights, arrange hikes/tours or explore much...4 is ideal.

I have traveled extensively in Nicaragua as well (and I also like Las Penitas, Jiquilillo, Los Guatuzos and Ometepe) but I have also not been to Solentiname or the Corn Islands. If I had to choose between those two I would go to the Corn Islands. But that is assuming you want to relax on a Caribbean island. I don't dive either but I do enjoy snorkeling. The Corn Islands to me would be like going to a different country. Solentiname would also be very relaxing but I just have not been really tempted. Artists live there, I believe. And there are supposed to be lots of birds. Some islands seem more interesting than others but expensive to get to (private boat).

Maybe I should not have replied as I have not been to Panama either! But I just wanted to ask if you have been to Puerto Jimenez, Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre, Cabo Matapalo, Carate? If not, I love that area so maybe you want to try something new in the Osa. Cahuita is nice and the National Park is amazing. Don't miss the beaches south of Puerto Viejo. Beautiful wild natural beaches bordered by rainforest and lots of wildlife. We stayed in Manzanillo, a small village at the end of the road with a wildlife refuge. I am sure you realize July could be very wet on the Caribbean coast. Not that that should stop you from going.

I am not a big fan of San Juan del Sur. The bay is pretty and the sunsets are nice but it is too much of a party town. I guess you could go to one of the beaches north or south of San Juan del Sur. But hopefully you will have spent time in Las Penitas and/or Jiquilillo and you are not looking for another beach in Nicaragua. How long do you have in Nicaragua? Maybe you could stay there longer?

If you have to leave Ometepe on Thursday you could get to Liberia and then Curubande for Rincon de la Vieja. We enjoyed the Las Pailas trail (fumaroles, boiling mud pots and monkeys) and the hike to waterfall La Cangreja. We liked our stay at El Sol Verde with parrots flying over our tent but lots of people seem to like Hacienda Guachipelin. There are hot springs in the area too.

Comparing my two favorite countries are like apples to oranges, as one is in 1st world and the other is in the 3rd world; Germany is my favorite 1st world country and Nicaragua is my favorite 3rd world country....and the reasons of which are, still and very similar. My husband and I are from the States, but have lived in Nicaragua for a few years now (after traveling around and founding exactly where we wanted to be - and this is it). As for why we love Nicaragua:
1.) The People. From the lower class to the upper class, there is a certain disposition that the vast majority of the population holds which is both inspiring and heartwarming. The niceness, friendliness, and over-all existence of joy surpasses all the rest.
2.)The majesty and splendor that this tiny country has to offer in terms of Nature is simply unrivaled. From the clear blue waters and life on the Corn Islands, to the chaos of Managua, to the Architectural Spanish influences in Granada and Leon, to Ometepe Island, Laguna de Apoyo, and (somewhat) untarnished beaches along the pacific coast
3.) The cost of living! With two rotating 12-hour security guards, a maid, a 2,400 sq. foot home with a beautiful view in the center of Granada costs us less than a cheap 1 bedroom apartment anywhere in the first world.
4.) Pharmeceuticals....it's such a lovely thing to have access to things like amoxicillin, diazepam, blood pressure medicine, etc. over the counter (especially since my husband is a retired doctor, whenever one of us gets sick, it costs pennies on the dollar for our prescriptions without having to go through the rigmarole of going to see someone and pay hundreds of dollars for what we already know we need.
5.) The safety....The Global Peace Index Ranks Nicaragua as the 76th safest country in the world (whereas the United States sits at 114). There are no gangs, no abnormal violence, and the police may do some corrupt things (i.e. taxing gringos at a police/military stop $20 who are driving....just because they can), but they are also extremely helpful when you need them and truly want to protect and serve

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Just so you don't spend the day wringing your hands with fret, another excerpt posted last night from the resident that gave up trying to post on this forum:

"Friends and family: Today’s update is brought to you by a Nicaraguan businessman on Ometepe Island.

Things have calmed down dramatically, freedom of the press is back (at least for now), all the hundreds of students that got arrested are free. The Social Security changes are no longer in effect and the government will be meeting with leaders from all walks of life including the Catholic Church. The protest march that took place in Managua on Monday with hundreds of thousands was very successful and very peaceful and was in support of the students that are in the trenches at the universities.

As of today the government has honored all of the demands put in place by the students.The government and the church will be meeting next Sunday to start the dialogue. New demands for deep changes in our "democratic dictatorship" system of government will be in place on Sunday.

Because 30% of the population that took part of the Sandinista Revolution in the 70's and the Iran/Contra scandals that lead to 12 years of civil war are still alive today, we know how to create revolutions step by step and successfully. Our current government knows that and is very afraid because we are not like Venezuela or Cuba. Just like Nicaragua, the US needs dramatic changes within its democracy because just like in Nicaragua the large corporations and the very rich influential people are the ones that control democratic processes. Power and money tend to corrupt.

I will keep you posted on Monday and give you all feedback on the outcome of the dialogue outcome. At the moment it is safe enough for me to travel in my truck with my two kids this coming Friday to see my mom 400 km away."

Mr. Moto - should you ever decide to visit Nicaragua again, within the current generation, might I strongly suggest you venture just a tad further north toward Managua - beyond the Masaya Tourist Market - to the hilltop fortress of Coyotepe. It was used for political prisoners beginning in the 40s with the Somoza dynasty through the revolution and Civil War of the 80s. Bodies were collected throughout the day, loaded into a helicopter, and flown across the road to be dumped in Volcán Masaya by cover of night.

Even if you can't find someone to translate the guides' info to English, the desperate scrawlings on the walls and blood-splattered confines of the torture chambers clearly speak for themselves. Nothing as spine-tingling as the Panther Chamber ruins atop TIscapa in Managua, where dissidents were served as snacks, but all perhaps to better help grasp the quite apparent forum flippancy.

San Jose to Ometepe would be at least 9 hours. But if surfing is important make your way to a surf beach in Costa Rica on the 22nd. Plenty of beaches to choose from but maybe choose one close to Liberia.
Then the 24th make your way to Ometepe (bus to Liberia, bus to the border, bus to Rivas, taxi to San Jorge, ferry/boat to Ometepe). As you don't have much time on Ometepe you might want to forget about hiking up one of the volcanoes. Not only are they not for everyone (very tough climbs) but they would also take most of the day. Don't worry, the volcanoes are also great to just look at. I normally like to get around by bus but as you don't have much time consider taking a taxi tour of the island. Make sure it includes Charco Verde... the beach is nice and you can see wildlife on the nature trail (best at dawn or dusk) and Ojo de Agua natural spring pool. Or rent a scooter/motorcycle and explore on your own.
It would be great to be able to hike to the San Ramon waterfall. If you stay at a hotel on Playa Santo Domingo (or in Santa Cruz, Balgue...) they should be able to arrange transport there for the morning of the 26th. Go early so you can take an afternoon ferry back to San Jorge. Take a taxi to Rivas and a bus to Granada and in the evening take a taxi to active volcano Masaya where you can see lava. Then enjoy the rest of the evening and hopefully early morning in Granada.
Or just relax the morning of the 26th: swim, go for a walk, maybe take a 2-3 hour horseback riding tour:

https://www.harishorsesnicaragua.com/tours-1

That way you can take an earlier ferry to San Jorge and hopefully get to Granada by late afternoon. Perfect for a stroll through this pretty colonial city. Climb the bell tower of La Merced at sunset. And then Masaya.

And, by the way, if you do want to climb a volcano on Ometepe it is best to sleep in Moyogalpa for Concepcion. Playa Santo Domingo (or even better Santa Cruz, Balgue or Merida) would be good if you want to hike up Maderas.

Luckily you have two extra days! I would add a full day to Leon. Book Cerro Negro (volcano hike + boarding) the first evening for the next morning or afternoon. The rest of that day explore Leon. Not sure what you mean by mud bath? Maybe the San Jacinto mud pools? They are not for bathing... just for looking at (boiling mud pools). They are usually visited at the start of the volcano Telica hike. I love volcano Telica and especially the overnight camping trip but unless you skip other things you don't have time for that. The next day either explore Leon more and hopefully go on a volcano Telica sunset tour or go to Las Penitas for beach, surfing or playing in the waves, nature reserve...

Instead of a shuttle to Granada you could just take a minibus back to the UCA in Managua and from the same UCA bus station take a minibus to Granada. It would not take much longer than the shuttle, it would be much cheaper and you would not be dependent on the shuttle schedule. You need at least a half day for Granada. Late afternoon or early the next morning you could go kayaking through the isletas (or take the boat tour). You should not miss active volcano Masaya. If the volcano is still as active as it is now you can see a lake of lava in the crater. Sunset is a good but popular time to go (you will have to line up). They drive you right to the crater and you can only visit for 10-15 minutes. I think volcano Mombacho and Laguna de Apoyo in one day is too much. Especially if you want to hike the longer trails on Mombacho and go ziplining. Most people like to spend a day at Laguna de Apoyo to relax, go swimming and kayaking, go to the viewpoint in Catarina...

Instead of a taxi to San Jorge, if you want to save some money, you can take a bus to Rivas and then a taxi. There are no shuttles on Ometepe. There are buses and taxis. You can also rent a scooter. Ojo de Agua is nice. You can also stop at Charco Verde, swim in the lake, walk the nature trail (best at dusk) to see monkeys, birds.... visit the butterfly place. And next to Charco Verde you could go ziplining at Chico Largo Adventure: fun ziplining with great views. Day 6: which volcano? Concepcion is active. Maderas has cloud forest. Both are tough hikes and take most of the day. It is either a volcano or the San Ramon waterfall hike which is much easier.

I would certainly not go to SJDS just for Sunday Funday. Actually, with only 9 days I would not go to SJDS at all. I would get my beach time at Las Penitas. If you want to party: Leon has great nightlife. And/or you could stay at party hostels. By the way, I am sure you realize there is no ferry to SJDS. The ferry goes to San Jorge and then you take a taxi to Rivas and a bus to SJDS.

With what is really only 9 days I would do this: Leon and Cerro Negro day 1, Telica overnight camping trip and then more exploring in Leon day 2-3, Las Penitas day 4-5, Granada and volcano Masaya day 6, Ometepe day 7-9. If the volcano you want to climb on Ometepe is Maderas you can skip Mombacho as Maderas has amazing cloud forest. You can also go ziplining on Ometepe instead of on Mombacho. And as you can swim and kayak on Ometepe you could skip Laguna de Apoyo.

Or if the overnight Telica camping trip is of no interest: day 1-2 Leon and Cerro Negro (and maybe a Telica sunset tour), day 3-4: Las Penitas, day 5-6: Granada and Mombacho or Laguna de Apoyo day 7-9: Ometepe.