I love trains. The point of this trip is (*was) to cross China by train, not to "visit" China, so flying to Lanzhou or wherever isn't some secret I overlooked. Heck of a lot easier to book a flight in China, I could even do it on my own in about 10 minutes ;) But that's not the point.
I get it. I love trains too.
The thing is, these are Chinese trains:
China has the best passenger railway system in the world.
China has the worst passenger railway system in the world.
Both of these statements are true depending on the value system of the person making them.
Chinese trains can be cheap, clean, fast, and convenient. They put you in touch with a culture/segment of society and give you a sense of history that is unique and fascinating. Befriending some migrant laborers in hard seat, consuming massive quantities of very low quality liquor, interesting flavored peanuts, and surprisingly good green tea while playing stupid games remains a real highlight of one of my first trips to China.
Chinese trains can also be expensive, dirty, slow and inconvenient. The trains run on arcane schedules, are difficult to book, and the views are often not great. Putting up with low quality cigarette smoke and rude fellow passengers on a long sleeper is an all to common bad memory from a decade of riding the train in China.
Fascinated by the statement that you couldn't even stay in the same soft sleeper bed for the whole trip. What the...?! Even if you're going from the start to the end of the train's journey?
If you love trains and want to experience Chinese trains, I HIGHLY recommend you break up your journey and take a few segments with transfers. Every train is different in China, best to roll the dice more than once so you have a better chance of something really cool and if you get something bad it will only be for 12-16 hours rather than 44. You'll also get to see more stations, more carriages, just more cool stuff about trains. You'll also have a few hours or a whole day to walk around and get some real food.
This might not be the right forum for you, perhaps you should check out a rail fan site that has information on what parts of the Chinese train network is actually interesting. As I said most Chinese trains travel through polluted flat plains of endless light industry and modern farming. They might cross mountains or important rivers/cities in the middle of the night. There are some really breathtaking vistas, but they are really rare. China is a huge country.
