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Puerto Viejo
Bungalows (Cabinas) Kiré (2 Nights)
$23 a night for a cabin that slept three, full kitchen, large everything; very comfortable. I did not remember booking all this and must have been focused more on cheapest rate. There are two cabins behind where the owner lives, and the restaurant in front is currently the Kiré Argentinian Parilla. Place is on the highway south of Puerto Viejo; away from all the hustle and hassle, yet close enough to easily walk.
Wifi only works on the porch, which wasn’t a problem stretched out in a hammock; that is until dusk and getting totally devoured by no-seeums. This was bad; felt them nowhere else in CR. Tried covering up another time but tops of exposed hands were covered with welts. I ate at the restaurant out front first night and used their Wifi when needed at night. Bites weren’t a problem on the road.
The cabin sits within a tight enclosure of hibiscus hedge and burgeoning plant life. There are howler monkeys in nearby trees, but it was the birds that woke me up and had me rushing to record their incredible chirping and singing. I’d definitely stay here again, but I don’t see myself ever coming back to Puerto Viejo.
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Puerto Viejo** is definitely rife with mischief of the shiftless – locals and tourists alike. So many vulnerable people. It’s a wonder you don’t hear even more about crime. Puerto Viejo is about a half-step up from last stop Bocas town further down the coast when it comes to people that arrive and never quite make it out.
I was spooked when first seeing this March 2017 incident( https://qcostarica.com/canadian-tourist-killed-in-puerto-viejo-limon/) from something that I frequently enjoy doing. It’s even more disturbing now that I’ve a point of reference for the photos. Unless there’s more to the story, this brazen attack was extreme happening along the main road. There were already many people out by 6am on both mornings.
I spent limited time in the central area but did get some nice night shots around 8pm. I ate at The Point restaurant twice and can very highly recommend their Caribbean dishes. It’s part of the Hotel Maritza along the outer, waterfront road around town.
Manú Bike Rental
The booking.com listing was wrong for Kiré having bicycles to rent, but the owner told me there was a place about 100 yards back toward town, same side of the road. I stopped on my first walk and found I could get a 24-hour rental for $6. He had a larger frame bike in the rack and we agreed I’d come back at 5:30pm to pick it up – which I did amidst only second tropical downpour of my week.
The guy (expat if it matters) brought the bike in, wiped it down, gave it a thorough going over, including tire inspection and even WD40 in the bike lock. Gave the $6, copy of my passport and credit card for deposit. Took off into the rain, and there was no traction pull from pedaling. Something was wrong with the chain. It was about 6pm closing time by now; he didn’t have time to fix the bike but had another large inside. He gave it a quick look, felt the tires, and I rode the bike back to my place.
Plan for the following day was to ride the bike down to Manzanillo and back. The first sun in four days was perfect with a 6:30am start. I hadn’t gotten very far when realizing my back tire was low but allowed myself to get distracted with surroundings and a big @ss coral snake. With riding becoming more sluggish, I stopped and got air at the Cocles Ferretería. Something was obviously wrong with the tire the way too much air was splattering rather than going into the tube.
I had to stop for air again and consider myself fortunate making it back to PV. For some reason the guy said he wouldn’t be opening until 10am instead of usual 9am. I got more pissed as I waited at my cabin. Told guy what happened; he said I’m too big (6’4”, 220). I asked for my money back at least three times, him insisting I take another bike – despite being too big. I finally got 3000c returned; about $5.
Bus to Manzanillo
I was really surprised to arrive and see how very little there actually was in Manzanillo. I’ve read on TT frequently that this area of Costa Rica has the best beaches in the country, and they were nice. But I was expecting more. I confess to not being much of a beach person anymore when it comes to swimming and roasting in the sun. Now there’s no more wonder about was I missing anything. Honestly, no.
The walk out of town along the beach was nice for getting to the Refugio Nacional Mixto. The old bridge is out requiring a wade across the water. From there, I spent my entire time in the park barefoot without problems. The small area felt crowded and thought it odd when people ahead of me were already returning.
The trail heading further into the park was closed at the last point beach where land turns inland. I did end-up with my best beach shots from here, but there also wasn’t much out there. I thought I took my time and spent barely an hour in the park area.
I missed the noon bus and with over an hour to wait until the next bus at 2pm, I decided to start walking. It was nice; certainly nothing strenuous. I was focused on ground levels until hearing a familiar squawk in the sky and saw three pairs of green macaws swooping into a tree. Looking up, I also noticed treetops full of monkeys. I spent so long standing there along side of the road that I was fortunate enough to make it to the nearest Punta Uva bus stop – without having to wait until the 4pm bus, or walk/hitch back to Puerto Viejo.
Puerto Viejo > Manzanillo – 670c
Punta Uva < Puerto Viejo – 665c
