I will be visiting Palestine (West Bank, East Jerusalem) in February and would like to know if this itinerary is doable?
1. Arrive at night in Amman by plane. Overnight in Amman.
2. Cross King Hussein border from Amman into W Bank. Overnight in Ramallah.
3. Sightseeing in Ramallah (general atmosphere, Museums, mausoleum), Birzeit (Museum), and Taybeh (brewery and old town). Overnight in Ramallah.
4. Day trip to Nablus and Sebastia. Overnight in Ramallah.
5. Day trip to Jericho, Wadi Qelt, and Nabi Musa. Overnight in Ramallah.
6. Shared taxi to Bethlehem. Sightseeing in Bethlehem (churches, apartheid wall etc). Overnight in Bethlehem.
7. Day trip to Al Battir and Mar Saba Monastery. Overnight in Bethlehem.
8. Day trip to Hebron, Artas, and Solomon's Pools. Overnight in Bethlehem.
9. Morning shared taxi to Jerusalem. Sightseeing in Jerusalem Old City. Overnight in Jerusalem.
10. Sightseeing in Jerusalem Old City. Overnight in Jerusalem.
11. Sightseeing in East Jerusalem (Mount Zion, Mount of Olives), and Litfa. Overnight in Jerusalem.
12. Morning transport to Amman (King Hussein crossing). Afternoon sightseeing in Amman. Overnight in Amman.
13. Early morning flight from Amman.

Thanks for your help!

disclaimer this that if you are going to travel through South Mainland Yemen - you should go through Kais Al Kalisi via the guys at Inertia Network - Inertianetwork.com. I discovered both too late; you live, you learn. You can message me at any time about these contacts.

As part of a six-month trip (for personal reasons) through the Middle East and parts of Africa, I decided to venture into Yemen Mainland. Because parts of the country are still in war and humanitarian crises, there were not too many options for guides or fixers. One name consistently came up in research in both positive and really negative ways. Despite all the negative reviews and finding out later that Kais had started up on ground again (by then it was too late as I was booked with some money gone through), I took a risk, ignored everything that felt wrong and decided to go with Abdul Ghanima (and his company Easy Travel).

I would like to say at the beginning of this (almost as a disclaimer) that no trip is perfect. Things will inevitably go wrong, especially in countries where the tourist infrastructure is not quite there right now (though Yemen had a burgeoning tourist infrastructure in its hey day). The trip was not perfect, and while Abdul and some of the guys were a bit aggressive at times, I went in knowing this. I found out some details about Abdul after the fact (with respect to my 'status' in the country - I was a 'reporter' in some areas, humanitarian worker in others, and I am neither), so really, all I am trying to say is that you need to be cautious / aware - confirm the agenda is just to the south (and not Sanaa or anywhere in the north).

Because there were so many negative reviews, I went in with low expectations honestly, with just hope and trust that I would at least be protected and feel safe. There were times where I needed heightened awareness, and I needed to stand up for myself with aggressive drivers, but I got through the country safely enough. I was treated decently well, fully understanding my position as a lone female in the Middle East, and I never felt like I was in immediate danger. But yes, if you go with his group / people, be prepared to voice yourself, be suspicious, ask lots of questions and be aggressive where necessary.

I do not think this trip is necessarily the right one for a backpacker who is looking for something really cheap, and maybe that’s where the disconnect lies at times (with the negative reviews). There are certain costs involved because of what the war has done to the economy and the extra security precautions involved. Finally, if you are a lone, single female traveller (as I was), remember you are visiting a place where you will need to tap into the “third gender” as a foreign female – you are sitting or walking through areas (or eating dinner) where it’s just men usually; they will stare; it is what it is. Sometimes, in conversation, males are brusque. This happened to me in Africa too – I would get the random pervy comment. Ignore it and move on. Talk a lot about and show pictures of your boyfriend or husband; there are ways around aggressiveness. I found it also much easier to blend in as a lone, female traveller by wearing an abaya and niqab, though the niqab is not necessary. You can pass through most areas with just a hijab and abaya (note this was different in talking to others in groups; I was fine as an Asian by myself). I will get into this later with my description of checkpoints. Point is, I went to south Yemen, and I would say, based on my own experience, which I felt entirely safe throughout. I was not heading into hot zones like Sana’a so maybe that contributed to the feelings of security. The south (and east) just felt really peaceful and warm.

I left Yemen with nothing but absolute love for the country – its overwhelming hospitality, kindness and warmth. Everywhere I went people were warm, welcoming and open – males and females (the ones I was able to talk to care of Abdul's brother - Majdi). I actually never felt unsafe in the areas I visited. I did heed caution from other travellers, and only walked around with my guide in the cities and villages. But, in Wadi Dawan for example, I could walk around the valley grounds tied to the hotel and be just fine.

Itinerary-wise I was there for 6 days – and I visited mostly the south. I started in Al-Ghaydah, passed through a bunch of coastal villages like Nishtun. I ended up in Al Mukalla – where I walked through the old town, visited the fish market and port, the new city gate, and the hanging fortress. From there, I visited Wadi Dawan, Al-Hajjarein, Seif, Beit Bukshan, Al Khoreiba, Tarim, Shibam, Seiyun. From Seiyun, I flew to Socotra for a different trip with Inertia Network (cannot recommend that group enough).

From an immersion perspective, I have had guides (like in Sudan – and well, I was with an archaeologist there) who were much better when it came to facts and history, etc. I have had a lot of bad guides as well – mostly in Asia. I was with Abdul's brother for the most part - Majdi. I would not say that Majdi is bad, or great from a conversational or learning perspective. He was engaged when he wanted to be. He answered questions where he could about politics and culture. When he was not engaged, he disappeared. And, I ended up having a really long, heated conversation with Abdul wherein another guide - Jamal needed to be brought in for my last two days in Shibam and Seiyun because Majdi just disappeared at one point, leaving me with the driver who could not speak English. I ended up exploring Hadramaut a bit more through a local English teacher - Abdulkarim, who I met at a school in the village of Seif. Jamal was a good guide, and I appreciated the ability actually to talk to his wife and niece and unveiled.

Now, onto visas and checkpoints:

Leading into Yemen, there are two military checkpoints that are quick and easy to get through. I waited nearly an hour at the Omani border to get clear passage to Yemen. They asked simple questions about my agenda and how long I planned to stay in the country, and if I was coming back to Oman. They checked my face underneath my niqab to match the passport photo. I also had to fill out a form about my passport and sponsor, in addition to providing my invitation letter of approval. I arrived around 9:20 am, and left around 10:30 am. Once I crossed into the Yemen side, it was just 10 minutes to clear the remaining paperwork. I was told later onwards that some groups and individuals have taken up to four hours to cross the border based on their passports (where they have been in the past perhaps).

Leading into Al Mukalla, there are two female checkpoints. They are easy to clear. There were no body searches; they are more interested in why you are here (in friendly conversation; the female officers were just honestly so nice and warm). I just had to show my passport and visa papers. At the second female checkpoint, the guard outside asked to see the inside of my duffel bag; it was a quick sweep. In and around Mukalla, there are many police checkpoints, but other than the two female checkpoints, I never had to get out of the car, and they were quick to pass through. The rest of the country was fairly easy. There are more checkpoints coming into bigger cities, but outside within the long distances, there were not many checkpoints at all, and our driver would usually just have to either flash his ID or say a few quick words. The only time I was ever technically asked to put on my niqab by the driver was crossing the Omani border. Every other checkpoint, I just wore the abaya with a hijab. In the Hadramaut region, an armed guard accompanied my car to Shibam, and walked around with us. Even here, I never really felt unsafe. I enjoyed walking around Shibam alot. Later onwards, I went to the top of the hill to experience the prayer call, and it was the most special experience ever.

There is a lot more that I can write -

I travelled through Syria for about 10 days – stopping through Damascus, Aleppo, Homs, Hama, Lattakia, and Bosra. Along the way, I also saw Maaloula, Krak des Chevaliers, Al-Mashtaya and other villages, Palmyra, and spent some time in this monastery - Mar Musa. Syria felt really safe, and in many places I could walk freely by myself for hours – as a lone, female traveller.

I went with a French and English based group – Mithra Travel – mithratravel.biz. I was part of a group of three (including myself). We had a wonderful, comprehensive trip with Mrs. Lamas (our guide), and just a wonderful driver – Mr. Hassan. Mrs. Lamas is a lecturer in Damascus, and she is really knowledgeable about all the sites, the civilizations, and just about Syrian life. She was one of the most comprehensive guides I have ever had. Trip coordination was also relatively pain free. Communication with Lily (Lilas) was pretty good. E-mail responses came sporadically. You cannot pay down too much of the trip. You bring the balance to Mithra’s office in Damascus, where you meet their really nice owner – Mahmoud.
• You can DM me for the cost – this is not really backpacker, but you can share the costs with a group of people, and it gradually goes down. Hotels were mostly in the 3-4* star bracket, except Damascus, where we stayed at an old historic house (Beit Al Wali – which is 5*). There is a single supplement option if you do not want to share a room. You pay for your own lunches and dinners, but breakfasts are included. I tipped our guide and driver; the others did not (to each their own).
• Crossing Lebanon into Syria was a relatively pain-free process. I went on a day where the border crossings on both sides were quite empty. On both sides, you fill out a short paper form. Mind you, as a traveller right now, it is highly advised to go with an agency. I went with a French-speaking group called Mithra. I did not want to think about approaching this from a backpacker angle because the country is so fresh out of war (and well, still ongoing). Foreigners essentially have to get approvals from each particular governorate to enter the region to see the specific sites. An agency can coordinate that and the approvals for your visa pretty easily (and, especially if you do not speak Arabic). If you attempt to enter an area without the proper approvals, I am told that you get sent back to the border right away; and, are essentially told to exit (tourists right now can only be in the country for 15 days maximum).
o Depending on what passport you have, you pay a different visa fee. I paid $90USD (Canadian passport as at Sept 2019).
o There were two car checkpoints. At the second checkpoint, they check the trunk really quickly; there are no sniffing dogs, and there is no pat down at either checkpoint. The Syrian customs officials were all smiles. It was very relaxed.
o The drive leading to Damascus is scenic – with fern trees, peaks and valleys, and jagged rocky cliffs. Because it is summer, the grass is all dried up and yellow, but you can kind of imagine how beautiful it would be in spring.
• The country is still experiencing sanctions – no international money transfers, major flights, or major imports or exports (they still do trade with some neighbouring countries – Iraq, Lebanon, etc).
o Some international embassies are opening up, with more working through opening up as well in the very near-term.
o As at September 2019, the currency exchange was $1USD to 600-650 SYP (I felt the exchange fluctuated a bit with each place I went).
• You can purchase a SIM card with 2GB of internet at any Syriatel shop for about $12-13 (8000 SYP). This lasted me until about the second last day, as some of the wifi in hotels really suffered outside of Damascus.

o Old Damascus used to be so busy with tourists. Many of the businesses are family inherited businesses. I was happy to see that the old city is still very vibrant, and for both days I was there, full of people smiling and laughing just walking care-free through the streets. It is just a very walk able, friendly place.
o I snacked a lot in the old city (everything below is approximately $1USD or less – 300-600 SYP range). Here were some of my favourites:
• Basturma – dried cured meat sandwich - I found this in a little hole-in-wall pressed sandwich shop across from The Mushroom Park on Bab Touma Street (north east corner). The name is in Arabic.
• Just a bit west of Bab Sharqi gate, on the south side, there is a big gelato and dessert restaurant. I had gelato here one night, and Kanafeh (Syrian cheese dessert) the other night. Both were really good. The name is also in Arabic.
• AlQaimarryeh Croissants – around the corner from Al Shahbandar Palace hotel. They have these ginormous croissants (you see French influence in the cuisine because of the French occupation until the 40s) – cheese and chocolate flavoured. They were so fluffy and warm, and the cheese was salty but delicious. I am tempted to say this was the best croissant I have ever had.
• Bakdash – You can find milk and pistachio ice cream (booza) inside the Al-Hamidiyah Souq. It is madness trying to get one because of the aggressive crowds, but fairly interesting to try. The ice cream is very thick and gooey – “elastic” some would say.
o I visited the National Museum - It was beautiful and contemporary, and curates all the interconnections of Arabic, Greek, Roman, Persian civilizations in Syria.
• It just opened up again last year. Museum management took what little antiquities they could during the shell bombing, and kept them in a safe place as to not be robbed. Other museums are across the country were unfortunately ransacked. The museum is still in a state of restoration and recuperation.
o In the old city, I also visited Al-Hamidiyah Souq and Omayad Mosque. Both were stunning visually. The mosque was very different from other mosques I visited in Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan (which were more alike in features, especially with Jame mosques centred in the bazaars / souqs). This mosque had mixed Ottoman and Arabic features, so none of the usual blue, pink and yellow ceramic tiling. It felt more like a church intertwined with a mosque.

• We started a road trip to Aleppo on the second day. The main highway had been closed for certain stretches for three years because of snipers. Even now, we had to take a back-door route to Aleppo (incurring an extra hour) because the main highway crosses into the last stronghold in the Idlib countryside. Later on in the trip, we would have to take detours again because some roads would still be closed.
• From here on out (and I will explain later), I am just going to reference the opposition as “OF”. Obviously, there were opposition forces to the Syrian army government, and terrorist group involvement, so it’s a bit complicated and a little convoluted to group everything together; but, I would rather refer to the opposition as the opposition than repeatedly use ‘terrorists’ and ‘enemies’ every time I am describing what I have heard or read.

• Every few kilometers there is a checkpoint. During the war, it used be every one kilometre. Obviously, before the war, there were hardly any checkpoints and tourists could travel around freely.
• We passed by the east Ghouta, just outside of Damascus, which received thousands of shell-bombings. Obviously, it was really difficult to see all the destroyed buildings; anything from houses to businesses. I definitely would not even feel the emotional impact until I walked streets and streets of damaged buildings, and yet see all these children playing amongst these ghost-like neighbourhoods, or the one business that has pulled together to restore and re-open in these eerie, lonely streets.

I travelled throughout Mali for about 12 days in September 2019 with the Malian company, Papillon Reizen. They reside in Segou, and also cover Burkina Faso, Togo, Benin, Guiea and Sierra Leone. I had a wonderful, sincere and caring guide in Ibrahim Kassogue throughout, and along the way, I was also shown a small part of Manding country by a guide named Madi, and Djenne by another Ibrahim.

I started communicating with Monique (who manages the company with Ibrahim) a few months back in May. She is very responsive, organized and knowledgeable. I felt very prepared going into the country. She provided a comprehensive itinerary, packing list, country facts sheet, and pre-arrival information. Throughout the trip, she was responsive to questions. I was able to meet her in Segou – just an amazingly nice woman.

I organized the visa through my Canadian embassy – it was $100 for a single entry. The visa was facilitated fairly quickly – just a few days of turnaround. Airline officials pre-checked for visas at the Istanbul airport.

When I got off the plane, there was a doctor who scanned my ear, and a bunch of people who flipped through my passport to verify that I did in fact have a visa into the country. I did a fingerprint scan, and they took a picture of me. I got my stamp after one question about what I do for work – “travail”- which I semi mangled out a comprehensible enough French response.

Monique warned me that sometimes there ware corrupt customs officials who want bribes in exchange for your baggage, and aggressive baggage handlers to add on top. Luckily for me, everything went smoothly. The airport was bigger and newer than I expected, and it was very clean. Still, it was small enough to only have two baggage trolleys.

In the 12 days, I visited Bamako, Manding Country (a village called Siby), Djenne, Mopti, Sikasso and Segou, before returning to Bamako. I was originally scheduled for a 2-day trek in Dogon country, but before arriving on ground Monique and Ibrahim were made aware of safety concerns in the area. When I arrived, they had to pull that area off the agenda because it indeed became very dangerous, people had been killed, and they did not want to take the risk on me or their team. So, Monique switched the two days out for Sikasso. In the end, I was disappointed because I wanted to see the cliff side villages of Dogon, but safety comes first, and they were really quick to manage the situation on ground.

Ibrahim was a really kind, attentive and knowledgeable guide. He knows his country and people very well (he is Dogon), and he knows how to joke around and take care of everybody – patting kids on the head, and just being kind and generous to everyone. He knew I liked certain foods, and he helped me to get it. He always asked if my internet was still working, and he got me bottled water everyday. So, working with the Papillon team was a real joy to see this beautiful country.

My highlights of the trip:
• Riding a scooter bike through the city. You get a sense of everyone’s every day and the atmosphere of a place with the wind whipping behind you.
• The hike up to Kamadjan Arch in Manding Country. The views are bar none – just miles and miles of green valleys intermixed with cliffs and spots of little villages below.
• Meeting the various ethnic tribes – Bambara, Fulani, Dogon, etc. people interspersed within all these various cities and villages.
• In Djenne – I loved visiting the grand Mosque and it was a place I have always wanted to see. It was spiritual and mesmerizing to see such a large mud mosque in person. And, I happened to be there on Monday market day, so you can see all the interesting buzz of the vendors coming from all the surrounding villages to hawk their goods. I also absolutely loved seeing the Mosque from the next-door rooftop (which Ibrahim arranged – he knows everyone in the city). It just shone against the sunset.
o The tribal architecture in Mali is just fascinating to begin with. It just reminds me of free-form pottery.
o The other Ibrahim also coordinated cooking and market shopping with his incredibly kind wife. We made a fish stew that was really delicious. It was nice of him to share his home.
• Driving through the countryside, and seeing the peacefulness of the people, the animals and the environment.
• Mopti – seeing sunset on the riverside. There’s once again a buzz from all the transport and fishing boats, and it was a joy to see all the island village people returning from work to settle down in their homes just a bit above water.
• Sikasso – I really liked hiking the Missirikoro rock formation to see the cave mosque, and then the cliff views above. The mini via-ferrata climb was interesting. And, just seeing all the meditation caves made me so aware of how spiritual Malian people are.
• Meeting a voodoo doctor in Segou, and experiencing a sacrificial ritual, care of Ibrahim. It was weirdly fascinating.

The currency exchange fluctuated for me to about 600-650 CFA for $1USD. Ibrahim helped me to get data – 1.5GB for 2500 CFA from an OrangeMali dealer in Bamako. I ate a lot of bananas - a bushel would run from 250-500 CFA. Meals would otherwise cost from about 1500 to 6000 CFA. The most expensive meals for me were in Djenne – 5000 for a chicken and pomme frites plate, and something similar in Bamako (the price always goes up of course with meat). I tended to enjoy the sauces and rice – peanut, okra, tomato and vegetables - and those meals would be on the lower end of the price spectrum. All the restaurants that Ibrahim took me to were fairly authentic and packed with locals. Most of them I could not find on Google Maps, and I am still trying to add some of them. I never got sick, so I knew he would only take me to clean places. The street food for the most part did not look that interesting – baguette sandwiches (though these were really delicious), fried beignets, and there all these colourful looking drinks in plastic bags. These were some of the places I went to:
• Segou: Restaurant Le Teranga, Restaurant Balanzan (amazing sandwiches)
• Sikasso: Restaurant Café Sagny
• Koutiala: Restaurant Maman J’ai Faim

Monique chose all the hotels, but I think you can give your preference if you really wanted. She asked what kind of accommodation and transport I wanted. I was not too picky, so I said a mix. I spied on prices where I could, and they seemed to range I think in the 20K-30K CFA range based on some posted signs. All the places I stayed at provided towels. I would have rather they provided mosquito nets over pillows and linens to be quite honest. I got bitten a fair bit even with deet.

I stayed in:
• Bamako- Hotel La Venise Malienne – I would classify this as a 3-3.5 star hotel. It is more B&B than hotel really. It is a gated compound near the airport. It is very clean, and the bathroom looked to be newly renovated. They give you toilet paper and soap. There is air con and a European toilet. The room was spacious enough. The wifi was not that great, and the TV kept on turning on and off so I unplugged it. Breakfast was the same everyday – a fried egg, baguettes, a croissant, pineapple juice, coffee, heated milk and butter. The little patio outside is quite relaxing.
• Djenne – I apparently stayed in a homestay but it felt like a mix of a lodge and someone’s house. There is clearly a family living there. The room is a bit dark, but you manage. It is a fan room only but electricity works. There is a big shower, and the bed was pretty comfortable. There is no wifi. I had trouble with gaining bearings in Djenne because of all the twisted alleyways, but it was a close enough walk I think to the Grand Mosque and market area.