Perhaps it's time to tell a story.
In many peoples minds, a story implies fantasy, but this is entirely true.
In 2003 (2546 in the Thai calendar) I travelled to Thailand to meet a woman for the fist time. She was a surgical nurse at a well renowned hospital in Bangkok. (Yanhee) She was the principal caregiver as the oldest child and put her younger siblings through university.
Now meeting a Thai woman means of course meeting the family, and she and her 2 sisters picked me up at the airport. Thankfully her younger sister was somewhat conversant in English and she would prove to be a valuable asset with translation.
After settling in, the first order was for Chomsuk and I to go to a Thai restaurant on the bank of the Chao Phraya River for lunch. Totally bogged down with jet lag and adjusting to the remarkable heat and humidity proved to be a challenge; the language barrier between the two of us alone added to the experience.
As I pointed to several items on the menu that looked good (which thankfully included pics for visitors) Chomsuk thought that I actually wanted to order all of them. She also had in mind some dishes that I might enjoy, and ordered them as well, after which claiming that she did not want anything to eat herself.
So there I was in 100 degree heat, totally in a different jet lag space and time, doing my best to wade through 2 tables full of food. I must admit it was astonishingly delicious, and I felt I had done some justice until they then brought out a complete fish dinner. Had to surrender.
The next day, off to a temple and totally embroiled in the remarkable Buddhist culture. A great experience which as a westerner is difficult to explain.
The following day, a total surprise meeting with her parents for lunch. I was a bit prepared and offered in Thai: (yin dee tee roo jak) ' I am pleased to meet you' They looked at me as if I told them their penguin was on fire. Nonetheless, it was all good, and everyone smiled...
The next day I was more comfortable with the family, and the idea was to travel to Ayuthaya, an ancient city of great cultural importance.
It was not far away, 45 minutes by train, but I really wanted to travel by third class ( 2 1/2 hours) and get more of a sense of the real Thai world. Chomsuk and her brother and sister reluctancy agreed, and that morning at 6 am we were at the station. I knew shortly after we departed why they were reluctant to go third class; at exactly 7am the first bead of sweat dropped from my nose to my chest. The heat was amazing!
But I was not the least bit regretful. The microscosm of Thai society enlightened me and awakened me to no end. The hard luck group were already into the Songsam (cheap Thai whiskey) at 7 am.
The villages at the track side bespoke the poverty that so many suffered, but once those inhabitants entered the train, they were shown enormous respect. The elderly had hardly sat down, when someone came to them with a dish of rice, or a cup of water.
This to me made the whole trip worthwhile, and reminded me that while they had so little to give, they did give, and expected nothing in return. Respect for others and the willingness to share was not learned but ingrained.
I did travel back to Thailand that same year, but things did not go so well that time between Chomsuk and I.
She did not want to leave her parents, stating that :'' they looked after me when I was young; and I will look after them when they are old' , and I was not in a position to move there; so we parted company.
Two years later, I was saddened to learn that Chomsuk passed away from heart failure, overworked from caring and giving to others the same examples I witnessed on the train to Ayuthaya.
I never lost site of the fact that there are many Chomsuk's in this world, and that kindness will prevail. Chomsuk was 38.


Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated. If you think I should stay longer or shorter in a certain place please tell me. Also If I've missed out on a really popular or beautiful place please let me know.
Overview:
Singapore (2-3 nights)
Phuket with phi phi day trip (4 nights)
Bangkok with day trip to Pattaya (3 nights)
Siem Reap (5 nights)
Chiang Mai (7 nights)
Chiang Rai (3 nights)
Hong Kong (not decided)
Singapore 3 days
Meeting Friend local resident - Planning activities with him
Phuket 4 days Stay on Patang Beech
Thai Tourist Police number: 1155
Metered tax from Airport – 420 baht. Get phone number for return journey
Try and rent a taxi for a half day and visit some sites.
• Big Buddha –Taxi?
• Patang Beach
• 2 sea Tour – 18000 yen
• Phang-nga National Park
• James bond Island
• Nai Harn Beach taxi?
• Wat Chalong? – Taxi?
• Bangla Road – heroes bar, aussie bar, dolphin bar
• Phi Phi Island day trip?
• Phromthep Cape – Sunsets Rent scooter?
• Flying Hanuman – zip line 2300 baht one hour
• Sweet Lemon grass massage
Bangkok 3 days
Try to stay near BTS "Skytrain" and the MRT "Metro/subway"
• The Grand Palace 8:30 am avoid crowds
• Wat Phra Kaew
• Wat Pho – The Reclining Buddha
• China Town
• 63rd Floor sky bar – cocktails and sunset views
• Massages
Pattaya Day Trip
• Wat Phra Yai - Big Gold Buddha Early morning
• Sanctuary of Truth - Taxi return trip
• Khao Chi Chan – Buddha Mountain
Siem Reap 5days (Still planning activities)
• Ankor wat
Chiang Mai 7 days
Book accommodation near old town.
BARS: Rooftop bars – 6th floor Maya shopping mall called MYST – good sunset
Pornping Tower Hotel
FOOD: Melt away bakery, Meeting room art café, boarder run burritos
Lady in the cowboy hat – Chang Phuak Gate
Aroon Rai – Pork Ginger Curry
Day 1 – Old town
• The moat + old city area Start at Chiang Mai gate
• Also south of the moat
• Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan (good sunset view)
Evening
• Dinner east of the river, several good restaurants
• cocktails?
Day 2
• Elephant caretaker village
Evening
• Night bizaar
Day 3
• Doi Inthanon National Park Day Trip
Day 4
• Warorot Market
• Cooking classes
• Massage
• Cocktails
Day 5
• Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – Sunrise Early start
• Stickey falls
Day 6 & 7 TBD
Chiang Rai 3 Days
Take Green VIP bus 300baht, 3 hours.
Book ticket at Trek and travel agent (saved on map) 3 days before.
• Wat Rong Khun
• Wat Phra Kaeo
• Myanmar Golden temple
• Singha Park
Hong Kong TBD
First time visiting this part of the world and I'll be alone so all comments and advice welcome.
Many thanks
Sean.

I want to share what happened to me and my sister on our departure from Antalya Airport. A passport control officer named Bilal who occupied the desk#14 of the Departure zone of Antalya Airport on the 11th of August at 10.00 a.m. local time discriminated against mine and my sister's nationality (Russian). Besides, he bullied us in public.
Now, what happened in detail..
Having passed the luggage control, we noticed that we had left the hand watch on the band. We rushed back and - without overstepping the pass control line - we called for a security officer, who stood in 5 meters away, to come and help us. In turn, she waved to us to come to her. We handed our passports over to two different police officers and approached the security lady from whom we got our lost watch. This is the prehistory. What began afterwards, I cant characterise other then the act of HORRIFIC HUMILIATION and EXTREMISM..
My sister received her passport back without a problem. I wasn't that lucky. When I -courteously! - asked for my passport, the mentioned officer rudely barked at me "wait!". I meekly waited for about 7 minutes. The officer pretended he was not noticing me. Finally I had to approach him politely to please give me my passport back or to inform me what went wrong. The officer kept on ignoring me. I was posed with a risk to be late for boarding. My sister got nervous and insisted loudly that he returns me my passport or explains the reason of his keeping it. The man nastily snapped at my sister "go away!" while making aggressive sweeping motions of his arm at her. Never in my life I felt so helpless. I repeated in English in a slow and articulate manner: "Give me my passport back or explain to me what am I to do to get it back. Should I queue again?". He yelled at me in Turkish and pointed at the end of the queue. I interpreted his gesture as an order for me to queue again, so there I stood. He continued yelling and waving at me intensely. I had no idea what was going on, so I asked him repeatedly and loudly "Explain to me the redeem procedure or give me my passport back!". I received no clear answer from whoever around, including other airport personnel who witnessed the whole scene and did literally NOTHING. Highly unprofessional! I demanded that nasty officer introduces himself and guides me towards his chief. He did nothing of what I'd asked of him. Instead he said (this time in a clear English): "you Russian so you wait". And then I understood that I fell prey to a Nazi extremist. Extremist who simply bullied me in public with impunity.
Absolutely desperate, I approached other staff representatives. I loudly cried out for help and none was there to help me. Both my sister and I repeatedly approached other officers asking them to direct us towards the police station. None reacted. So unprofessional! This madness continued for at least 30 minutes.
At last my sister cried and knelt down to the nasty officer begging him for my passport. Tourists and personnel witnessed it and none intervened. It appears that our tears was exactly what the sadist was targeting at. He threw my passport at me in a bigoted manner.
My sister could not stop crying, so we kept looking for a police station. Having found it, we entered a room full of idling guys sipping tea and giggling. None spoke any decent English or German there. We nevertheless reported what happened. In a broken and very poor English we were threatened with penalty as high as 2'000.00 Tl for "numerously crossing the pass control line". We tried to explain the situation but the chief of police literally told us to shut up. We had no choice but leave since we were risking to be late for boarding.
What I am concluding:
- Antalya Airport police officers are CORRUPT, UNEDUCATED and NASTY EXTREMISTS who are useless when one needs help, as they keep themselves busy with a mutual cover-up and bulling people.
- We - Russian women unaccompanied by our husbands - pose an easy target for humiliation by governmental officers in Turkey. Our human rights were outrageously overridden in public and none in that airport bothered to stop this ugly scene. I repeat, this is highly unprofessional behavior!
- Neither me, nor my sister nor our family members will ever come to Turkey again. WE WILL NEVER COME AGAIN. Besides we will dissuade our relatives and friends from making holiday in Turkey. The majority of my colleagues at my workplace in Switzerland will NEVER CONSIDER COMING TO TURKEY.
- I am 100% sure, that officer Bilal will get away with that disgusting act he committed towards me and my sister. All is left for us is to hope that Lord hits him hard.

Sorry this may not be directly related to what you are searching, but there's a facebook group called 'walking Palestine', where are notifications regarding various guided hikes in West bank. If you have the time, a hike in Wadi Qelt is definitely worthwhile to consider - ending in Jericho. This puts monasteries in your way too. It can be a heavy day (we did the hike in about 5h including breaks, st.George was closed due to special Christmas prayer time and we did not stay and wait for them to finish) but makes it possible to do things you mention in one day in my opinion.. If youre interested, you can find a postings made by Simon in this fb group, we hiked with him. He might be able to help you and also provide info you need. Hope you enjoy your visit in Wadi Qelt!
Hi Jan and Edith,
I'm not sure if you're still considering Gabon and are looking for information, but in case you are...
Gabon is very safe (assuming you're not there during elections/when elections results are announced, which just happened last September so I doubt you would be). Libreville is a "big" city, so obviously you should act as you would in any big city and keep your belongings under a careful eye, but in general Gabon is very safe. I have never felt unsafe walking/traveling around Libreville (at any time of day) or any other city/place in Gabon. You should take care with mosquitos and malaria, but that's pretty obvious. In the cities people may or may not be friendly, but definitely aren't aggressive. Politeness is very important and even if Libreville you will often find people saying "bonjour" to you walking down the street. It can be rather chaotic and when shopping sometimes people will try to rip you off if you look like a tourist.
In general it's fairly expensive to travel in Gabon (hotels, recreation are usually very pricey and you probably won't get what you expect for the price you pay). Depending on how much time you have and how adventurous you are you can either take trains to certain places, fly, take buses/taxis, or rent a car and drive (if you drive be warned that there are loads of police stops, there's nothing to worry about except your time and patience). Camping is also possible as there's loads of open spaces.
For me the most interesting things to see would be the forests and the wildlife. Gabon has some amazing parks and unique wildlife, but in general you aren't guaranteed to actually to see the wildlife as the national parks system is still fairly young and the wildlife sometimes still wary. But you'll most likely get some unique experiences of hiking into this beautiful rainforest on foot.
These would be the highlights for me:
Loango National Park- on the coast of central Gabon. Researchers are studying a habituated group of gorillas and the park has now opened up visits to this group for tourists, this is the one place in Gabon where you're pretty much guaranteed to see wild gorillas. The park is famous for it's surfing hippos, but it's very difficult to actually see them (I believe they mostly wander to the ocean at night). Loads of wildlife and stunning forests and beach.
Lope National Park - the easiest national park to visit as you can take a train from Libreville there or drive there fairly easily. Strong populations of gorillas and chimps. Also large population of mandrills. Lots of other wildlife too including elephants.
Moukalaba Doudou National park - in the south of Gabon, again lots of wildlife including chimps and gorillas.
Ivindo National Park - you can take a trip down the Ivindo river to a camp from which you can hike to the most famous waterfalls in Gabon.
Here's link to resources for planning your trip around Gabon: http://atgabon.com/?page_id=1471
on the website you can also read my stories of traveling around Gabon.
If you have any questions feel free to get in touch.
Andrea

I recently visited Dzanga Sangha National Park in Central African Republic. This must be one of the top wildlife destinations in the world. You may know it from BBC wildlife documentaries or National Geographic magazine.
Despite travel advisories, this small corner of Central African Republic appears safe and stable. I stayed at the wonderful Sangha Lodge, run by Rod and Tamar, a South African couple, who extended excellent hospitality. After five nights camping in Lobeke National Park in Cameroon, the cabins at Sangha Lodge, with hot and cold water and flush toilets seemed the height of luxury, and the food was delicious and well presented. Rod and Tamar are very interesting people, and the conversation is part of the experience.
As well as knowing all there is to know about this part of the world, they have the knowledge and contacts to help make a trip go smoothly, for example they send a chainsaw and operator with you in your Toyota Hilux in case of tree fall that cannot be cleared with a machete.
At Dzanga Bai, a mineral rich forest clearing, I added Forest Elephant, Forest Bufalo Giant Forest Hog, Agile Mangabey, Colobus Monkey and a Genet to my list of mammals.
I also visited two separate groups of habituated Western Lowland Gorillas for a close encounter. Habituated Gorilla visits can be hit or miss - in dense forest it can be difficult to observe them, unlike when they emerged into the clearings. The timing of the visit is important so that it does not coincide with a time the gorillas will be resting, or all you will see is motionless black mounds on the forest floor. My three visits allowed me some excellent viewing, including of twin babys (very rare!), although one of my viewings was of mainly sleeping adults. You can ask the Ranger who will accompany you for extra time if you arrive when the gorillas are resting, or delay your departure - the Rangers will know when the gorillas are expected to be asleep.
I also paid for a 'Mangabey Follow' where you walk through the forest surrounded by a troop of Agile Mangabeys, watching them melt in and out of the dense undergrowth as they walk along the ground or climb the trees. I spent a total of six full days in the park, and could have spent longer.
The elusive Bongo managed to escaped my sight, but no wildlife is guaranteed - the uncertainty is part of the thrill, isn't it? - but this just gives me a reason to plan my return trip.
Walking in the forest in Dzanga Sangha, you need to be prepared to take off your boots and wade through, or along, rivers. On forest trails you need to be aware that animals use them too. I encountered elephants twice on the trails - a little too close to such large animals!
I combined my trip to Dzanga Sanga with a visit to the lesser known Lobeke National Park in Cameroon.
Lobeke National Park is about as remote as can be - two long days drive from Yaoundé in the dry season. In the wet season roads might be impassable, and the journey would certainly take longer.
It is, however, much closer to Dzanga Sangha, making it tempting to combine the two.
I hired a car and driver through Central African Tours. The journey from Yaounde would be possible by public transport. Old and basic Alliance Voyages busses trundle through the jungle from Yaoundé - but you would have to add a day to your travel time.
I broke the journey at Yokadouma where the Hotel Elephant is basic, but the staff friendly and helpful, which always makes a difference!
Wildlife viewing in Lobeke centres around forest clearings, similar to Dzanga Bai, where mineral deposits prevent trees from growing. The forest animals and birds all visit the clearings to lick or eat the mineral rich soil, and so all you need is patience and luck - they will come to you!
I visited Petite Saline and Grand Saline, both of which have viewing platforms from which to watch the clearings.
Petite Saline is a three hour walk through the forest, and Grand Saline another 3-4 hours further. Both have basic rough campsites, but you need some tolerance to washing in streams, and using pit toilets. And to insects!
However, the rewards are immense. Both days at Petite Saline I saw Western Lowland Gorilla families emerge out of the forest, and stay in the clearing for 45 minutes to an hour. I also saw Sitatunga - male, female and young - and Forest Buffalo, as well as numerous bird species.
At Grand Saline I saw Forest Buffalo, Sitatunga and Red River Hog. I also saw the most amazing spectacle of thousands, if not tens of thousands, of African Green Pigeons and African Grey Parrots performing the 'bird dance'. Each morning and evening, vast flocks take off from the trees with the crash of thousands of wings, and wheel through the sky, swooping and turning, flocks merging, or passing through each other. The display in the morning was even more spectacular, as the sun was behind me, and hitting the birds, showing of the bright green of the pigeons. I'm really not sure why this sight is not better known.
As the flocks landed, I watched a mongoose break cover to try to catch a bird on the ground.....
Walking through the forest between the trailhead and the clearings, we heard or saw gorillas on nearly every occasion - seeing them is hard as the forest is so dense, but you are in no doubt that they are there - you can hear them crashing through the undergrowth, vocalising as they go. On one occasion the tracker told me Chimpanzee were close, but to be honest I didn't see or hear anything.
We saw plenty of elephant droppings and footprints, but I did not see a Forest Elephant in Lobeke. The Bongo also eluded me, although I was told there were other clearings where they were common.
I spent five nights camping, as well as two nights at Camp Combo, in a small cabin, from where you can visit the local Ba'aka tribe, and observe their way of life, as well as looking out for monkeys (Putty Nosed, Colobus) and Hornbills.
My visit contributed to local employment, as you cannot just walk into the forest yourself. You would soon get lost, and you need the security of people who know where they are going and what they are doing. My 'entourage' consisted of a Ba'aka tracker, my Cameroonian guide Emanuel, an armed 'eco-guard', two porters to carry tents, and all the food and water we would need, and a cook!
There are dangers in the forest. Apart from Forest Elephant and Forest Buffalo, there are poachers - sadly just before my visit four elephants had been killed, but the eco-guards managed to capture those responsible.
If you have visited some of the better known countries of Africa, and want to try something different, why not give Central African Republic and Cameroon a go? There are species here you will not find together anywhere else in the continent, and the wildlife viewing experience, of standing on platforms in the forest clearings waiting for the animals and birds to come to you, is different, and very, very relaxing.
You need patience, the ability to remain still, and the ability to remain quiet - I was told that most groups who visit see very little in Lobeke as they chat and move about too much. The gorillas in particular were very sensitive to human presence.
I would recommend Sangha Lodge unreservedly, as a base for a unique and unforgettable wildlife experience.
Thanks to Jules at Travel with Jules, Emanuel and my driver Mousa from Central African Tours, , and Rod and Tamar at Sangha Lodge, for help and advice in making this a wonderful trip.

Itinerary
(TRAVEL DAY)
Flew to Dubai, caught another flight to Muscat (purchased separately - it’s cheaper this way), took a taxi to Riyam Hotel (OMR 21/night before taxes/fees).
Day 1: Muscat -> Wadi Shab -> Sur
Our Sunshine Tours guide picked us up at 8am and we headed for Bimah sinkhole. It was neat but not an absolute must see. We then hiked to the pools in Wadi Shab, which was amazing. I’m fat and unfit and wasn’t sure how it would go but it’s not that strenuous. I wore my walking shoes as every guide book stressed good footwear, but ended up taking them off to walk through water. I’d recommend something like Keens as you could also wear them while scrambling over the sharp stones in the pools. I wore a t-shirt and shorts but all other women were in swimming costumes and bikinis.
We had a late lunch in Tiwi but there was no time to go into the wadi as I was slow and we were going to the turtle reserve in the evening. My mother was keen to see the turtles - I was less so, and as I expected, I just felt the whole thing was an exercise in disturbing animals that really want to be left alone. My favourite part was the stunning view of the night sky.
Day 2: Sur -> Jalan Bani Bu Ali -> Wahiba Sands
Not the best day, considering what we paid for it. We took some photos in Sur, visited the traditional dhow shipyard (where our guide told us there would normally be a tour but it was a Friday - surely it shouldn’t matter and he should be able to impart the same information?) then stopped off at the Castle Museum in Al Kamil. It was closed, but from the notice on the door it was hard to tell if it was only shut because it was Friday or if it’s being temporarily refurbished. Afterwards I wondered why the guide didn’t know or wasn’t able to call ahead.
I then realised we were driving to Wahiba Sands, when we’d originally arranged to visit Jalan Bani Bu Ali/Hassan, twin towns described by the LP as ‘a conglomeration of watchtowers, old fortified houses, forts and ancient plantation walls’ and a ‘rewarding’ off the beaten track visit. I like to visit smaller places as well as the main sites so I asked our guide to take us there (as initially agreed), but he seemed baffled, telling us there was nothing to see or do. I felt a bit irritated to get that response from a professional guide. In the end we went back to Jalan Bani Bu Ali as it has a famous old mosque with multiple domes (not that we could enter!). We stopped at a tumble down fort near the mosque which we found very enjoyable, especially as we found a very weathered but beautiful door carved with pictures of buildings and clocks in the ruins. Our guide clearly couldn’t see why we found the place interesting, though, and wasn’t able to point out anything else in the town. I rather wished we’d stuck to the standard itinerary and visited Wadi Bani Khalid instead.
We then had to rush to fit in our “meet a Bedouin family” activity before sunset, which was a joke. We drove a little way into the dunes, where a large traditional tent had been set up, surrounded by the concrete homes that most Bedouin people actually live in these days. A child came out to sit with the souvenirs in case we wanted to buy anything. No chance to learn about their lives or culture. We spent the night at Sama al Wasil camp (OMR 55, included in our tour price), which was comfortable and nicely decorated. Food was just OK. The camp was similar to others I’d seen online or saw from the road; they’re all elaborate affairs, not really camping at all. Lighting meant I couldn’t see the beautiful sky we’d seen from the turtle reserve, and sunrise was spoilt by an idiot who drove his truck up the dunes and thought the other 4-5 people who’d climbed up for the view wanted to listen to his loud dance music.
If you really want to learn about the Bedouin people or experience the wilds of the desert, your typical overnight trip from Muscat isn’t going to cut it. Research carefully and make sure a tour company can offer you what you really want.
Day 3: Wahiba Sands -> Ibra -> Nizwa -> Jebel Akhdar -> Sumail
I’d actually planned to spend three full days just on the loop out to Sur, but Sunshine Tours seemed very keen we push on to Nizwa and not really amenable to stopping in smaller/less visited places. I felt like we did too much on this day; tour companies often seemed to assume their tour was all you were going to see of Oman, even when you told them otherwise.
They’d initially said there wouldn’t be time for Ibra, so I was pleasantly surprised when we pulled in. This was our first abandoned mud brick town and some of it is still in very good condition; I really enjoyed walking around. We then set off for Nizwa and were given half an hour in the souk … which was shut. Really don’t understand why we didn’t stay longer in Ibra and visit the souk there instead as it would have been open - maybe, as Nizwa is “the famous one”, our guide felt obliged to take us there even though it’s shut in the early afternoon? So I was a little disappointed at the organisation, as he must have known the opening times.
Nizwa Fort was quite fun, but not my favourite. After visiting we headed up Jebel Akhdar - I hadn’t realised from our initial discussions that there’d be time to go all the way to the top of it. We drove to the Saiq plateau, spent a few minutes wandering around the main town (not much to see) then headed to the viewpoint - at the wrong end of the day, as the sun was in our eyes and we could only just make out the terraces. I asked what other places were normally visited on the mountain and our guide said that this was all they really did on a day trip. Er, OK. My experience didn’t square with the glowing reviews in the guide books at all - if visiting, I would suggest spending at least one night so you have a chance to really explore the area.
On the way back down we whipped through the plantations of Birkat al Mouz - it looked like a nice place to stop for a picnic if you had the time. Our guide drove back towards Muscat and dropped us off at the main junction of the Sumail gap, and our Airbnb host picked us up from there (I have to stress how useful it was to pick up a SIM at the airport).
Day 4: Sumail -> Jabrin Castle -> Bahla Fort -> Hamra -> Misfah -> Sumail
It would make far more sense to base yourself in Nizwa to visit these places, but I was pushed for time and couldn’t find anywhere suitable that didn’t cost many times over the modest price asked for our Airbnb place. It worked, though - our host found us a local guy who was willing to drive us around for the day for (if I’m remembering correctly) OMR 60. Not being a professional guide we had to do some directing but it was alright. Jabrin Castle is really good - gorgeously decorated ceilings and they have an audio guide. There wasn’t much in Bahla Fort but it’s cheap to get in so you might as well. I wanted to visit the atmospheric old potteries, but due to communication issues we ended up being taken to a government-run centre for training in ceramics - we got a tour from someone in the finance department and it actually ended up being quite fun!
From there we stopped in Hamra for a slightly grim local lunch before heading up to Misfah al Abriyyeen. There wasn’t much to the village - it was hard to see how to stray from the main path, as I didn’t want to inadvertently end up in someone’s home - but the setting is nice, and I’d like to come back and stay at the hotel there.
Coming down I directed the driver back to Hamra to visit the old section (we’d agreed to this beforehand but he didn’t really know what we wanted to see and I think he thought I just wanted it to be a lunch stop!). Wandering around the mostly abandoned buildings was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Some were still in excellent condition (I even found one with fully decorated walls on the first floor, not far from the old souk). Our driver offered to stop in Nizwa on the way back to see the souk when it was open but we were pretty tired by then.
Day 5: Sumail
I considered visiting Jebel Shams, and maybe we would have if we’d been in Nizwa itself, but we decided to take a break and hang out in Sumail instead (we had a lovely big garden to read in). We walked to the local fort and a passing driver called the custodian for us, then we all did the coffee and dates thing at the first guy’s farm, then our Airbnb host picked us up and drove us to a few local sites. And we had a home cooked dinner with his wife at his house. Very generous and welcoming, even though he was busy at work that week. It was a real highlight for us.
It sure is possible. I did it in one day coming from the Dead Sea and returning to Jerusalem by bus so I had no car either. The walk is not that hard. I am not very fit and I only had trouble with the steep walk to the the door of the monastery and back on the hill.
( If you want to read my personal experience:
http://www.citytripping.net/wadi-qelt-nahal-prat/ )