Hello, We, a couple in our 60's, just completed two months of travel in SE Asia. Most of this, we planned and booked ourselves, and also most went very well....lots to see and experience there.
I just want to put a warning out there about a travel business we encountered early on, in Bangkok. We were coming off the Golden Temple and thought we'd get a tuk tuk ride over to the train station, for tickets north. Instead we were lured over to "T.A.T. Mahannop Travel" on Mahannop Rd. A friendly woman named Koiy, greeted us at the door. She asked about what we were looking for, and we explained we were about to progress northward by train, and then bus or van (since we would be heading west of the railroad).
Koiy came up with a travel package which included private car transfer, and bus and train tickets as far as Chiang Mai. I saw/heard a red flag when she told me the train station office was only for Thai people, and that we would not be able to get tickets there. We were sold four envelopes containing vouchers and tickets, for transport. Luckily she also gave us her business card.
Skipping to the end, It turned out we were charged double the value of the total transportation. Along the way there were big glitches in their service provided, such as getting dropped at the wrong homestay, we had booked, and a no show driver on morning of second transport. Something went wrong here (never explained what). Our hotel host called Koiy for us, and soon a driver picked us up (non English speaking)and dropped us at the train station along with 3rd class tickets (not the tickets you want), for a train leaving a whole two hours later. When I emailed Koiy to ask what happened, she gave no response.
Later we gave 3 days notice to cancel one of the vouchers (because we canceled a distant hotel), but again no response to my e-mail. I e-mailed once more to tell Koiy we would stop in her office to review services, once we finally returned to Bangkok.
In the meantime, we were offered Tourist Authority service by the tourist police, to accompany us during the travel office visit. Unfortunately, this did not work out b/c communication by phone was difficult, and they responded slowly to e-mail. So on our own, we paid a visit to Koiy and Mahannop Travel (while we had time before our flight home).
We found Koiy, but were quickly ushered to a man in charge, who was not very accommodating. His dishonesty stood out boldly, and after an hour conversation, long story shorter, we came away with a partial refund of the one unused voucher. The bottom line: Don't listen to a local stranger on the street in Bangkok when they recommend a Travel Agent, and AVOID MAHANNOP TRAVEL. Once again, they are dishonest and scamming.

Hello,

I'm currently looking at train tickets from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and also back from Chiang Mai to Ayuttyaha. As far as I can see from the SRT website, tickets can only be booked up to 60 days in advance.
However, I found that 12goasia (https://12go.asia/en) offers advance booking services. Does anyone have experience with this travel agency ? Is it reliable ?

My concern is that we are 2 adults, traveling with 2 kids aged 10 and 2. We would like to take the night train and preferably have a private room, and I'm afraid that if I book through the SRT website, there wouldn't be any left as we will be traveling in January and it's quite a busy time.

What would you advise ?

Thanks a lot !

I have just returned home to Ireland after a week long solo trip where my main aim was climb Toubkal. First of all i got lots of great info on Thorn Tree so thanks to everyone who gave me info. This was my 3rd trip to Morocco so the main part of the trip was spent in Atlas Mountains with a day either side in Marrakesh.

• Marrakesh
  This was my 2nd trip to Marrakesh so I had no need to visit the tourist sites. I am into my photography so i just spent my 2 days here wandering around taking photos and relaxing. I stayed in 2 different Riads, Riad Eva (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g293734-d4114880-r587002810-Riad_Eva-Marrakech_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html) and Riad Hna Ben Salah (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g293734-d9785850-r589176539-Riad_Ben_Saleh-Marrakech_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html). Both good options within walking distance of Jemaa el Fna. When i arrived i got the number 19 bus from airport to Jemaa el Fna, this costs 30 MAD return(€2.70). The bus is easy to find (go out of arrivals across the road to the taxi rank car park and bus leaves from end of car park) and takes about 30 minutes. It departs (every 30 minutes, i think) from the bus stop at Place de Foucauld (green area between Jemaa el Fna and the Koutoubia Mosque). The one difference I noticed on my time in Marrakesh this time compared to my first trip was the increased hassle i got from locals as I wandered around, maybe because i was on my own i was seen as an easy target. Every road i walked was 'closed', 'nothing to see there' or a 'bad road'. One teenager wanted to fight me for money after he gave me directions by walking in front of me for 5 minutes and after i did get one guy to show me around the Tanneries he demanded 200 MAD (€18), when I refused saying that was way too much he gathered 4 other men around which was quite intimidating as we haggled over a price, i ended up giving 150 MAD (€13) so i could just walk away. If you are walking around especially on your own and are approached just politely decline and keep walking and say you know where you are going. For meals in Marrakesh i ate in small restaurants off Jemma el Fna which cost between 50 - 80 MAD (€4.50 - 7) with a large water. Eating in the food stalls in Jemaa el Fna at night is a great experience and there is a great atmosphere but just be careful with what you order as very often they will put extra food (eg plate of veg or couscous) down and then charge you for it.

• Imlil
  From Marrakesh i got a mini bus to Imlil (quoted 50, then 60 by driver, payed 70 and got no change). I think they depart (when full) from near Rue Sidi Mimoun (again a short walk from Jemma el Fna near the Koutoubia Mosque). This trip took 3 hours (changed buses in Asni where we waited 40 minutes) and as far as Tahanaoute there was 35 passengers on the 18 seater bus. Imlil is a fantastic little village and is the gateway for climbing Toubkal. It is an alcohol free village and with my trip there during Ramadan was completely dead, the village was in complete darkness from 8pm and it seemed only one restaurant was ever open at night. I stayed at Riad Jnane Imlil (https://www.tripadvisor.ie/ShowUserReviews-g488109-d6387606-r587930316-Riad_Jnane_Imlil-Imlil_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html). I arrived in Imlil 2 days before I intended to climb Toubkal in order to do a warm up trek and maybe to meet other people who also wanted to climb Toubkal. My warm up trek was up to Tizi n' Tamatert and onto the village of Ouaneskra with a detour into the mountains for a bit of scrambling. This trek can be done along a winding zig zagging road though there are mule trails which can be followed which cut directly uphill.

-Toubkal
My intention was to climb Toubkal solo without a guide, maybe hoping to join up with other climbers that i met. As I have trained as a Mountain Leader many years ago and have trekked in different parts of the world I began to have second thoughts about going solo, as it goes against all the safety rules i would always stick to. All my research said that it could be done solo especially by experienced trekkers so in the end i went off solo (also because I didnt meet anyone else in Imlil as it was very quiet) . Day 1 is the 12k trek from Imlil to Refuge Toubkal (3,207 metrers). This is all along an easy to follow trail. There is a height gain of 1500 metres so can be tough going especially in the afternoon heat. The first section past the village of Armoud and along the valley floor is easy enough and then you begin to ascend till you reach Sidi Chamharouch (a few shops selling water (10 MAD) orange juice (20 MAD) and chocolate (10 MAD) and seats where you can rest in the shade). The next section where the ascent becomes steeper until you reach the last shop/rest stop about and hour from the Refuge is what i found to be the toughest. The last hour onto the Refuge the trails flattens out a bit and is easier going. It took me 5 and a half hours to reach the Refuge. The Refuge is basic but comfortable. I payed 235 MAD (€21) for my dorm bed with dinner and breakfast. Dinner is good (soup, bread, couscous, fruit and tea) and a good way to meet other climbers. There were many others going solo so I felt better knowing now that i would meet others on the trail. You can have a shower for 10 MAD (not much water pressure and lukewarm but still needed after the days trek). The dorms begin to empty after 2 in morning as the guided groups set out early to summit for sunrise. I left at 6 am and took 3 hrs 40 minutes to get to summit. There is an obvious trail on the ascent and you can use the other climbers above you as markers on the trail. The climb is steep and tough and I did go very slowly and took many breaks. The descent (took me 2 hours 20 minutes) on the scree and loose rocks is also tough and dangerous there is risk of slipping and you do need full concentration on the way down. Remember this a 4000 metre peak and should not be underestimated, it is a tough climb and you will need to have a decent level of fitness. I was told that there has been 6 deaths on the mountain this year and at the refuge there is a sombre memorial to young English man who died while descending. I did see one French woman fall and damage her ankle/knee and had to be carried down the mountain. If you are not an experienced trekker it would be advisable to hire a guide. In terms of Altitude Sickness luckily i didn't suffer anything (i did suffer with it before and it is not something i want to experience again) but i did meet others who had slight headaches and felt a little nauseous. The important thing is to go slow and take on plenty of water. Don't forget after the tough climb up and back down to the refuge you still have the 12k trek back to Imlil ahead of you. The trek back took me 2 hours 50 minutes after which I slept nearly right through till the next morning. In the morning i took a Grand Taxi back to Marrakesh, was luck that i was able to share with 3 other climbers i had met on Toubkal for a price of 80 MAD (€7.20).

-Budget for the week long trip
Accommodation €185
Meals (12 meals) €75
Water/soft drinks/chocolate €21
Transport €14
2 Wool hats (presents) €18
Morocco Football Jersey €15
Tips €15
Haircut & Shave €3.5
Tanneries Guide €13

Total spend €360 approx

Hi I plan to Kham area but get confuse with the minivan/bus and hard for me to plan.

day 0 : Arrive Chengdu
day1 : Chengdu to Danbar stay at Zhoulu Tibet Village.Overnight Zhoulu
day2 : Zhoulu-Danbar-Dangling-Mozika-Dunbar-Zhoulu Tiber Village. Overnight Zhoulu
day3 : Danbar to Ganzi 8 hours minivan. Overnight Ganzi
day5 : Ganzi to Xinlu Hai Minivan Ganzi-Manigange-Xiluhai 3 Hours with bus change and Manigange (half day and may leave Xinluhai around 3-4 PM) to Manigange. Overnight Manigange
day6: Manigange - Deger 2-4 hours? Visit Derge printing house (1-2 hous) and minivan to Baiyu (2 hours?) visit Katoc monastery. Overnight Baiyu
day7: Baiyu - Yachengar monastery 4 hours. Overnight Yachengar
day8: Yachengar monastery - Litang (minivan 6-9 hours?). Overnight Litang
day9: Visit the Litang temple and Sky Burial then go to Kangding (minivan 9 hours?). Overnight Kangding
day10 Kangding - Chengdu.

1) The route that I made seems reasonable or not?
2) Timing for miniva is right? Is there any stop for lunch for instance 8 hour from Dunbar to Ganzi.
3) D5, will it be better to come back to stay in Ganzi so I don't need to spend time for moving hotel and get to the new hotel in Manigange which may end up the same time usage.
4) The minivan that I mentioned, is it direct or I need to change over some place.
5) How difficult it is to find the hotel for Non Chinese in each destination. Chengdu and Ganzi are ok (and Kangding maybe) but do not know the rest.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.