Sudan trip report March 2020
Visa: we did our visa in Addis, the embassy visa session open from 8-17 from monday to friday (please note that saturday is not open, some info are wrong in this regard, we went on saturday and it was not open...)
documents: you have to print your passport copy, additionally the embassy will ask the full name of your invitation person (including family name), no invitation letter is required. 68 USD, no change will be given, we prepared exactly 68 USD ;) since 7am there are already people waiting, we went there on thursday morning around 8am, wait around 1.5 hrs for the process, and got the visa on friday afternoon at 2pm, entire process was easy and smooth. There is also a printing shop about 5mins walk from the visa session.
Flight: we use Ethiopian airlines and we purchase by milleage, which is quite cheap in this regard, a normal ticket would costs around 300-400 euros for return (quite expensive, same price you can fly to dubai/europe, khartoum is just a 1.15 hrs flight)
Registration on arrival: when we arrive in Khartoum (arrival terminal), custom was stress-free, we went out of the arrival hall and walked to the immigration office (the office is near the departure hall, you need somebody to help you to find it), pay 600 SDP each to get a blue sticker. (we change with other guy with black market rate to pay it, there are some guys <no office as it is illegal> changing dollars with black market rate).
Since the photo permit is no longer needed to travel outside khartoum, basically all the registration is done. We recommend to do 5 copies of your passport and visa in the city, if you travel by land, you will meet a lot of check point which they want to check your passport, copy will be easily enough to show them.
Khartoum day tour: First we take Tirhal (you can install it before you come, it's much cheaper than calling taxi on the street) to go to Souq arabi to change dollars (black market rate was 1 USD = 105 SDP, in port sudan was 1 USD= 112 SDP for 100 USD note). Then we went to Al-waha mall food court for lunch, doing zain simcard (15 SDP, we charge with 100 SDP for internet package), and we visited National museum (really recommend), enjoy sunset in Tuti island beach/boat cruise etc.
Ancient culture day tour
Next day we take a shendi bus to Nagaa, Shendi bus station is located in Bahri north, as you may ask Tirhal driver to bring you there. it was 140 SDP to Shendi (around 1.4 USD), we tell the driver to drop us off at Nagaa and Al Mussawarat Junction, there is already a passenger 4x4 car waiting there(surprising, we thought about hitchhike but it is nearly impossible as very few tourist car goes there.). We negotiate for 3600 SDP (35 USD) to take us to both Nagaa and Al Mussawarat, first we went to Al Mussawarat, there is a guy insisting us to pay 20 USD each for visiting, we had some arguement and decide not to visit (since they are just some rocks.... apologies if we have low knowledge on this site.), we turn right to visit Nagaa, there were nobody asking us for payment, so we visited Nagaa (beautiful ancient ruin) for free, we recommend to visit Nagaa but not Al Mussawarat.
After we come back to the main road, we hitchhike a car to Meroe Pyramid (after Shendi), be aware to take enough water as there is few shops along the road. In Meroe we get a dunkey car to go to the entrance.... (great fun!!!), in the entrance there is a women ask 20 USD each for the entrance, we negotiated for 4.5 USD each (really don't understand this as there is no clear regulation on every sites so the 20 USD ticket price was pretty random to us...). We had amazing sunset in the pyramid. Then we came back to main road with dunkey car again... then we hitchhike to Atbara for overnight. (we sleep in a hotel costs around 1000 SDP, near the souq).
The next day we waked up, visited the souq, and found out that there was a bus driver strike and no bus is going to Port Sudan... So we decided to hitchhike to Port Sudan (it was super tiring as there was lack of oil in the gas station and only trucks are available for hitchhiking to Port Sudan, we spend almost 10 hours for hitchhiking this way.). We do recommend for people who are looking a more relaxing travel, you can hitchhike from Meroe back to Khartoum and take the flight in the next day, Sudan airways offers Khartoum-Port Sudan flight with 5270 SDP (around 50USD). very relaxing one hour travel...
On the way from Atbara to Port Sudan, it is only desert with dune (beautiful, but tiring for 10 hours ride...), many check points and police as us to show passport all the time (give them a copy will be easy).
Port Sudan: we really like Port Sudan, we spend 5 days there! and still want to stay longer! We did Umbria wreck diving (with Charisma diving, you can pay by paypal, instead of paying USD in cash), we also recommended Sanganeb diving! We visited Sigala (near fish market) and its underwater house (amazing)! we hanged out with sudanese CSers in corniche at night, drinking teas and coffees. We ate the declious waffles in chocolate house, visited also Red Sea resort (please see the movie), it is an amazing place for swimming (almost nobody there), they also offered 4000 SDP fullboard program for 2 people (20USD each! fair enough), we did only day tour there with our own picnic so we didn't pay much. Tirhal from Port Sudan to there was around 450 SDP. On the way back we luckily found another Tirhal, otherwise you have to hitchhike back to Port Sudan. There is also a beautiful art craft street in the center of Port Sudan. People in Port Sudan are really laid-back and have great hospitality! you may also visit the port by contacting with red sea port corporation, they can arrange boat tour and bring you up to the crane to see the port view!!!
We stay in Misrak Suite, it was 20 USD per night with sparkling clean apartment, there is a port sudan mall for buying some spices/baklava etc. The main street also has a delcious Mr. Falafel
Then we fly back to Khartoum with Sudan airway (50USD each, they have an office in Port Sudan too, near Red sea secret diving).
Our staying in Sudan was really amazing! and truly recommend everyone to visit this country!!!
