Hi

can I suggest that I would never travel again without a quality umbrella -- I have seen all sorts of comments 'against'umbrellas - but, I think that must be from people who have never had a good one.

Last year I lived for 6 months in SE Asia -- and, there too 'dogs' are a very very very big risk - with rabies -

I purchased a quality umbrella as a last minute decision just before leaving Australia for Vietnam for 3 months (then, I went to Thailand for 3 months also).

I had never owned an umbrella before --------- in Vietnam I arrived in a heatwave after leaving snow in Australia (Tasmania) -

2 days in and the hat went in the bin and I fell in love with the umbrella for shade and cool - but, it only took a few more days to work out that the umbrella gave me a metre more clearance from passing motor bikes ------- an advantage that I had never heard of before --

then, the first little yapper that ran out of nowhere in an attempt to chew my leg to bits --------- all I did was peacefully lower the umbrella and he headed for the hills ------

hmmmmmm?? I thought ---------- so, after that - I NEVER went out without it - night or day - fine or rain -

it was the best defensive weapon I have seen -- no dog got through it - even at night - I carried it in a waterbottle carrier in my shoulder sling bag (pacsafe) - with an insulated water bottle on the other side -

keep the umbrella with the little velcro strap 'undone' - so, if something comes at you at night - all you have to do is to draw it out of the bag -------- push the button and boom ---------- scare the hell of out one poor little doggie

it worked exactly the same in Thailand - the dogs are much bigger there - but, equally psychologically easily damaged by a launching brolly

if you see a particularly threatening dog in the distance - go around it - but, if caught - the brolly is deadly on the mind

don't be agressive - just lower it

I used a 'Blunt' Metro (made in NZ for NZ wind -- but, one of the quality yank ones would be good as well I think (Davek or something like that) - but, the Blunt has tip protection - which is good in crowds unless you don't mind leaving blinded people in your wake

hope this helps

oh - they are good for rain as well :)

Hi Pinkerton. Plans look good, maybe add in the heights to your latter pre-Pass days to be safe as they are very important.I liked the Thorong Base Camp lodge, best lodge we found on the trail. Yak Kahrka to High Camp is a risky amount of vertical. If you feel good when you get to Phedi you can walk up towards high camp then return to sleep. When in Muktinath visit the temple there as this has some sacred items and is a popular spot with pilgrims. Also plan for some more hours on the pass day to be sure so you can take beaks and enjoy the experience.
Enjoy your visit!

There are a lot of lost cities hidden away in the soul of Tochino.

The city was partly damaged during the Boshin War, and the Edo era town was then dismantled during the Meiji period, with feudal institutions abandoned, daimyo mansions destroyed, and new neighborhoods like Ginza - all multi-storey brick apartments and department stores, like New York or Paris - designed for a modern capital. It was then all destroyed by an earthquake, and quickly built up again as the nation's politics slid into militarism and ultra-nationalism. WWII bombing ended that city as well, and it was hastily rebuilt again in the peace after the war. I'm sure the city's reinvented itself several times since the end of the war as well.

If the city somehow disappeared without leaving an historical trace, and was dug up by archeologists 1000 years from now, they'd be confused beyond belief. I'm not sure how much those photos would help.

No need for a car , BUT - if you're in peak season (before late September) everything will be crowded, especially until late August, after which the number of tourists may drop slightly, but replaced by the wedding season. Despite that, and much as I like Naples, personally I would recommend staying in , say, Sorrento rather than Naples if your objective is to spend time in the Amalfi coast region. Check Curreri which operates a direct bus from Naples airport to Sorrento about every couple of hours.
Check out buses along the coast from Sorrento to Amalfi where you can change for another bus on to Salerno, and ferries . Agree with also run along the coast. As Artemis says, if you're going to visit the Amalfi coast, at least give it a decent amount of time - say at least 3 nights. If you're going on to Basilicata, you could consider picking up a car in Salerno rather than going all the way back to Naples airport, even if you drop it off at the airport on the way home

You are travelling at the peak of the peak, and will need to pre-plan indeed.

There are three overnight levels:

1. More upscale chain (or branded) holiday parks (Big4, TopTourist, HPA)
2. More basic council or independent caravan parks - usually near beaches
3. Even more basic camp-sites in national parks, and elsewhere (check NPS website)

I have not done a campervan trip between Sydney and Brisbane at Christmas (we have done it many times off-season) - but I expect the big popular parks will book out soon, if they're not already booked out.

Try a Big4 booking at say Forster or South West Rocks for your dates, and see how you go.

where do you get water from or dump if there are no facilities at the campsite? gas station??

Yes - many service stations or roadhouses have dump points. Even some public parks do.

I think you'll find - unless you go really feral and off-road - that you won't have too much need to use the showers or toilets in the van ... these facilities are everywhere you're likely to want to stay.

Here is a rough cut - three nights in each place is a bit much, in my view:

22 Dec - Port Stephens
23 Dec - Port Stephens
24 Dec - Port Macquarie
25 Dec - Port Macquarie
26 Dec - South West Rocks
27 Dec - South West Rocks
28 Dec - Woolgoolga
29 Dec - Woolgoolga
30 Dec - Byron Bay area
31 Dec - Byron Bay area
01 Jan - Gold Coast
02 Jan - Gold Coast
03 Jan - Gold Coast

There re lots of variations possible, but that is a framework for you to work with.

Christmas around Port Macquarie and New Year round Byron Bay would be fine ... note these major towns are notional - you can go a bit out of them (north, south, or inland), and find quieter places.

But I'm not playing down how very packed the whole coast will be ... book what you can.

I have been but that's been discussed in the past.
Anyway, the park exists pretty much on paper only.
Having been there is no different to having been to other areas in Papua.
It's a populated area whose only unique feature is the island's highest peak, otherwise you can see the same things inside and outside it.

There are more pristine areas with less disturbed wildlife elsewhere, but they need lots of money to reach.

Wasur is the best accessible place to see wildlife in Papua, but due to hunting it is no longer like it once was.

Most other areas are also protected on paper only.

Death Valley in the high mountains like telescope peak in July and August is quite pleasant. I'm not even sure how they'd count the drive throughs in Death Valley since there's no gate.

I assume you are flying into San Jose (SJO).

It is mainly busy from Dec 18- Jan 5 or so, and this mainly applies to the Pacific beaches, and possibly Monteverde, as its very touristy. Monteverde is not a place for seeing wildlife, as its foggy, misty, rainy, cloudy and damp. Lots of fauna, some birds.

The two BEST areas for wildlife, nature, eco systems and hiking, is the Osa Corcovado, and the Caribe side. These should be the focus.

For Corcovado, you need permit/guide/reservations to hike the Loop, which is 21KM day 1, sleep at Sirena Ranger Station, and then 18KM day 2, times with tides to cross rivers. You would base and use Pt Jimenez, the hike is from Las Patos to Sirena, and Sirena to La Leona.Carate. You leave all gear in PJ and hike with as little as possible, change of clothes, and water. I would pre pay for the meals at Ranger Station so you dont have to carry these items/stove etc.
Best to fly into and out of Pt Jimenez, via San Sansa Air. Bus from San Jose is 8-9 hours. Drving a bit less.

The other option is to visit Drake Bay, you visit one or the other, not both, as they are not easy to get between either. DB you access the park via boats arranged from your lodging, to the San Pedrillo or Sirena Ranger Stations, you can pre arrange a overnight, and the permit/guide/reservation is all pre arranged by the lodging/boat with travel to Corcovado.
Getting to DB you have 4 ways- You can fly to DB, you can fly to Palmar Sur/Norte, and taxi hire to Sierrpe, and take a boat down river and down the Pacific coast to DB. Or you you can bus to Palmar Norte/Sur, then taxi hire to Sierrpe. Lastly, you have Osa Shuttle, from Quepos to Sierrpe, for boats to DB. (both directions).

For the caribe side, keep in mind Janis much more rain on caribe side, but its all rain forest, which means lots of wildlife and bio diversity. The key areas to see are-
Sarapiqui- La Selva (hike/canoe/raft/boat)
Tortuguero Rainforest and Canals ( via boat only) Canoe/kayak/hike)
Cahuita (hike/snorkel/swim)
Pt Viejo and beaches south to Manzanillo Ganduca Marine refuge (hike/swim/snorkel/dive/horseback)
Raft the Rio Pacuare, back to SJ as a day trip from Pt Jimenez. Top 10 River in the Americas

It would make most sense to put the caribe side last from SJ. This area you dont need a car, and can do all by public transport, shuttle, taxi hire, boats.

For the NW area, being Monteverde, Arenal, Rincon, Tenerio/Rio Celeste, Cano Negro areas, its best to have a rental car. You can take rental cars oneway as well, with outfits like Alamo. You can shuttle/boat/shuttle between Monteverde and Arenal either direction. You can shuttle transfer from Arenal to boats to Tortuguero as well. (but you would miss Sarapiqui).

I suggest with 3 weeks, you get the MOON Guidebook to CR, there is a lot more areas, especially for hiking and wildlife, like La Amistad Chirrpo & Orosi Valley.

LP or Roughguide are good to. To understand the Eco systems and natural landscapes, get the National Geographic Explorer.

if it were me- I would go to Corcovado first, as they say, adventure first, then back to SJ and get car for the NW/Central, then drop car, and head to Caribe key areas...finish on the lazy reggea feel coast and chill, rent bicycles and relax and eat drink in paradise, away from crowds on Pacific side.

Have fun.

PS- The most wildlife to be observed with the naked eye, will be Sarapqiui, Tortuguero and then Corcovado. Best part of Corcovado is its very remote, all 4 species of Monkey, and pure jungle away from any civilization.

Crowds are not really a issue in CR, even high season, the main issue it impacts the lodging options most, rental cars and flights. Otherwise, if there are more than 50 people in any of these areas the same time as you, besides Monteverde or Arenal Hot Springs, I would be surprised. Pacific beaches at the peak, main party beach Tamarindo, is maybe 300 people in a 1 miles section of the beach....desolate is better description, and the most crowded time, is sunset :)