We are a couple of long term travelers about to explore Madagascar. My girlfriend and I have backpacked through 50 countries together. We have been in Africa for six months and learned a lot of lessons. A big one is that working as a team of four has huge benefits. It's the magic number, but 3 is good too!

With a small group we can share the cost of a private car, national park guides, watch out for each other, build friendships, and share experiences. It makes things a lot more affordable, generally easier, and more fun.

We are open to teaming up for all or parts of our trip so don't hesitate to contact us.

About us and our trip
-We are silly people and we laugh and smile a lot
-Trekking, climbing, and scuba diving are big passions for us
-We don't speak a lot of French but we can read it pretty well
-We are in Madagascar for 38 days
-We value independence and our itinerary is fluid
-We will mostly be staying at small budget hotels
-We have a tent, pads, sleeping bags, stove with us
-We prefer to cover less distance more thoroughly than to go a ton of places quickly

Let's have some fun!
-Scotty and Val

Le Morne Peninsula:

Beach walk. Catch a bus at the beginning of the northern side of the Peninsula or try hitchhiking. The bus will stop towards the end. Jump off and head to the windy small public beach to see the kite- and windsurfers in action. Follow the rough beach (if you walk it barefoot, you’ll get a natural peeling on your feet) east past the resorts to the next public beach. There you’ll find a bus station and opposite a small park dedicated to slaves right below the top of Le Morne Brabant. Be aware that swimming can be difficult along this stretch of the beach as the currents are strong. I went into the water twice and head to swim full force against the currents to keep my position. The good part is that you get drifted along the beach and not further into the sea.

Hike up the Mountain / Hill of Le Morne Brabant, 556m by public transport - without a guide:
You could head around the Peninsula’s Top to get to the start of the hiking trail and continue upwards but I would suggest taking an early morning bus (taxi) towards Baie du Cap.
Tell the bus driver that you want to climb the mountain and he’ll let you out at the right point.
From here it’s 1.5km along a drivable nature road to the start of the hike followed by a 3.5km trail (one way). There is no real need to take a guide with you and it’s perfectly legal not to do so.
At the start of the hike you have to sign yourself in a visitor’s book and at the end obviously you have to sign out. Currently the ropes are in maintenance (which is funny as once they are old they have to be replaced but whatever the reason, they are absent). While most of the track is visible and easy to follow there is narrow section through the bush and the upper section is steep and exposed. Here hiking and easy climbing alternate. Don’t come with acrophobia. It’s nothing dramatic for an experienced hiker but the rocks might catch you by surprised if you aren’t. Bring along good shoes and plenty of water. If you feel uncertain return while you can or join one of the guided tours.
Additional Viewpoints: After the first section through the forest on a wide trail you’ll turn left and up the mountain. To the right you can follow another trail which leads to 2 viewpoints. If you have a good balance try to stand on the wobbly, rusty bench :)
NB: You actually can’t climb the real top of the mountain but up to the metal cross. Right in front of you out in the sea is the illusionary “Underwater Waterfall” which you can see properly only from an airplane flying directly above it or via Google pics. Enjoy the hike – it’s a great experience!

Stay at Pingo Studios in La Gaulette – updated and extended informations
Owner Ben. Tel. +230 5755 97 73
At Pingo Premium you have 3 studios for E 80 with a large living room. 4 other studios go for E 50 and up). If all are full, Ben still has other options. I stayed in a studio which was both comfortable and convenient as it was only a 4 min walk to the supermarket.
All studios have AC in the bedroom, a living room with Sat.-TV, Wifi and kitchen for self-catering. Great value. Prices may be negotiable in the low season.

Mahebourg and around:
Mahebourg is a relaxed little town which is easy to navigate on foot. A beautiful walk leads you from the (Monday) Market to the Mosque, the Notre Dame Des Anges Church, the History Museum with its colonial house inside a huge shaded garden and just beyond to a colourful South-Indian Temple. Return via some small alleys and the sea promenade. If you like relaxed small scale city life; base yourself here (see below) if you are more the beach type head to Pointe d’Esny or Blue Bay.

Blue Bay Marine Park – Snorkelling with Totof Tours:
Jocelin Orange + 230 57 51 17 72 / WhatsApp: +230 58 36 90 65
www.totof-mauritius.com / Email: contact@totof-tours.com or pointedesny.bluebay@gmail.com They speak French, English and German. I did the standart 1h snorkelling tour in a glass-bottom boat to the nearby reef. On the way there we saw some table and brain corals and a few fish but once in the water we were surrounded by beautiful fish. The smaller ones, close to the surface and the boat are sometimes fed so the water seems to be boiling with fish when you enter.
While snorkelling above the shallow reef – expect to see all kinds of beautiful coral fish.
Price for the 1h trip: Approx. MUR 400 depending on the group size. If you are single or a couple wait for a group to build up or charter the whole boat.
Departure Point: Blue Bay Public Beach – make sure you’ll find their stall.
Departure Time: Daily from 09:30 am – up to 16:30 pm, serval times per day.
Snorkelling equipment is free of charge
Underwater Camera Charge: MUR 500 (bring your own SD card)
The same company also includes lunch on these trips for a higher price as well as other trips to nearby islands (Ile aux Aigrettes, Cerf, Phare…) including speed boats and lunch.

Opposite of the beach there are some food trucks where you can get inexpensive meals, juices and ice-cream. The bus stop is right at the beach and runs roughly every half an hour to / from Mahebourg.

In case they don’t have a tour running any time soon, there are various other tour operators selling basically the same tours at similar prices but some tend to overcharge foreigners.

Catamaran day trip to Deer Island (Ile aux Cerfs) with Croisieres Turquoise including BBQ & Snorkelling: Information updated and extended.
Tel. +230 631 16 40 / www.croisieres-turquoise.com / Email: marketing@croisieres.mu
Price is MUR 2'100 per adult. Friendly Claudine will tell you everything you may want to know about the trip. Bring sun cream, a hat and good mood. The rest will be provided by the crew including alcoholic beverages. Try the jungle punch but proceed with caution :) The embarkation point is at Point Jerome close to Le Preskil Hotel at 09.30. Trips include snorkelling gear and a tasty BBQ lunch on board (we had Marlin steaks and very tasty chicken, marinated in their secret honey sauce).
On the way to Ile aux Cerfs you’ll change to a smaller boat and head upstream into a river to view a beautiful waterfall. During your free time at Ile aux Cerfs you can have a walk around the island, a swim at the nearby white sand beach or even go Parasailing for MUR 1’200 (not included in the price). Close to the boats are some souvenir shops if you have kids at home, the shark teeth on adjustable collars make for a great present. On the way back you’ll go snorkelling to meet the colourful reef fish. Unfortunately Ile aux Cerfs has become very touristy, it’s therefore much more enjoyable to cruise out in a catamaran taking it’s time to reach the island instead of taking a speed boat. In case you are based in Mahebourg, ask them if they can give you a lift otherwise take a bus but make sure you reach in time. This is a great tour which is highly recommended.

Tyvabo Guest House – updated information.
This friendly Guest House is run by Hassan and his son Nadeem.
10 Marianne Street, 4 min from the Bus Terminal and the Monday Market.
Tel. +230 631 96 74 / Mob. +230 5252 80 03 or +230 5780 47 28
www.tyvabro@gmail.com / www.tyvabro.com
Room E 27 for 1-2 pers. including breakfast.
They also run a taxi business from their place for sightseeing excursions all over Mauritius as well as pick-ups / drop-offs at the nearby airport.

That’s all for now – go out and explore yourself!
Roger

Morotai
Towards the last week of August my husband and I flew from Manado to Morotai on Wings with a stop in Ternate. We wouldn’t get off the plane but finally did as the plane got delayed allegedly for the military using the airport! There was an Italian couple who would go to Pulau Bua after having spent 5 days in Ternate. They were the only foreigners we saw on the trip. I had read it’s better to sit on the left side of the plane but it didn’t matter.
I almost got a heart attack hearing the taxi cost 250,000. There are shared taxis though (50,000).
Ana, a young woman, gave us a leaflet of Moloka’i Morotai, a recently opened hotel of which I had seen pictures online (700,000). I thought I should check it out as the promotional rates were 500,000. It’s in Pandanga area 5 km from Daruba on the way to D’Aloha Resort. A couple of guys had offered to take us to town in the taxi so instead of waiting for her boss to collect us we went with them. She probably had asked the driver not to charge us because when I gave him the money he refused to take it saying it’s OK.
I was a little hesitant staying at the hotel. Not because I didn’t like the rooms. On the contrary. They were super clean and absolutely beautiful with plants and birds painted on one wall. But only one wing was operational. The other one was under construction and there was a lot of noise. We didn’t plan on spending much time at the hotel but they said the work would continue till 8pm. Which wasn’t true. Even at 11pm they were still working. By now I’m sure the hotel is finished. The staff were helpful especially Ana who went above and beyond to help us. We were her first foreign guests after all. After some bargaining I got the room at 430,000. Ana meets the flights from Ternate.
Bungalows at D’Aloha Resort (850,000) were very big; the bathroom was not to my liking though. The place seemed empty when we visited. We didn’t swim/snorkel as the tide was low.
Supposedly the beach at Trikora, the place where there is a museum, a monument and a tank was good. The bentor took us there for 20,000. I don’t think it’s suitable for swimming. I got out immediately as there was a risk of hitting on some corals.
We walked to the port of Daruba from where speedboats to Tobelo leave in the morning once full (150,000).
People go for fish to Damonge Restaurant not far from the hotel. With the help of some English speaking patrons we ordered tempeh, lambu siam (not that good), kangkung cha and rice (70,000 including avocado juice). They brought us fried tahu as well. Not only the food was great, the portions were so big we got the leftovers in a box and had it for dinner the next day. They prepare breakfast for the hotel, which is a good thing.
The bentor to Daruba was 30,000. We went to the market hoping to get a bus to Bere Bere in the north. We’re told it would leave at 3pm. At the port there were shared taxis. I agreed with a driver to take us first to Bere Bere (the road to Pantai Sopi is bad) and then to the west side of the island till Wayabula (650,000).
At the Mandiri village you can see coconut plantations and some banana trees. Picturesque big trees on the water at Sabatai Tua. Many oxes on the road. At Daeo cloves were drying out by the side of the road. The beach at Wewemo seemed good. Accommodation at the Moro Madoto Resort & Spa, which seemed locked, apparently costs 5,000,000. A tuna factory was next. A week after the Independence Day you could still see the flags in every village but Sangowo.
We stopped for a swim at Pantai Rorasa but didn’t enjoy it. The road went uphill and downhill; picturesque bays and many small rivers on their way to the sea.
Bere Bere is a big place opposite the small Pulau Tabailenge. We were looking for a decent beach and we’re told about Pantai Gorua, which was at some distance. A quiet place with bougainvilleas, where we swam among boats and seaweeds hearing the prayers from the mosque. Many kids came running to see us while our driver took a nap with his water bottle as a pillow.
On the way back we stopped at a house where the family collected coconuts and we had green coconuts. Rocks came out of the sea. A really beautiful place.
We gave a ride to a woman working in Daruba. She said we should stop at Air Kaca (glass water). It’s a spring from a subterranean river where American soldiers went for a swim or to relax, among them general MacArthur.
Wayabula is 50 km from Daruba. We saw the statue of private Nakamura who stayed in the jungle almost 30 years after the end of the war. The road was inland. Houses on stilts at Aha. Then the villages of Pilowo, Cocomare, Raja (a big village with a brand new church).
It was too shallow to swim at Wayabula. On the way back we were very squeezed at some point as we gave a ride to many schoolgirls. But the girls were so happy not so much for the ride but for being with us. They kissed our hands as they got off. Many women carried conical wicker baskets on their backs full of bananas, pineapples or wood.
It was a nice trip and we enjoyed it. Didn’t matter swimming was not good.
There was nothing for us to eat in the morning. There was another cook at Damonge Restaurant who didn’t know that we are on a plant based diet. Ana was very upset and sorry. She suggested they would prepare lunch for us to take it on the ferry to Tobelo in Halmahera.
I had told her we wanted to visit the nearby islands but at a more reasonable price than she had asked first. So she arranged a traditional boat at 500,000. We left at 7.30 so we would be back to catch the 2pm ferry (35,000).
We started with the small, deserted Pulau Kokoya. We did swim but I didn’t see anything let alone a dugong! On the tidy Pulau Kolorai, with two guesthouses, soldiers worked out while villagers stared at them. The beach at the back of the island is not good.
Then on to Pulau Dodola, promoted as the next Bali. Just 5 or 6 local tourists. The beach next to the sign with the name of the island is great. On the small island several new bungalows that looked like bunkers. On the big one except of the old rooms among the trees there are some very nice new rooms big enough for families. I saw them through the windows as they weren’t open yet.
Pulau Zun Zum with the statue of MacArthur has some deserted buildings. Not good for swimming.

Halmahera
The ferry to Tobelo was crowded. We were on the deck to see the coast. Approaching Tobelo the islands were very scenic. The harbor was at some distance. After bargaining we took a bentor for 30,000. The hotels I checked in town couldn’t compare to Moloka’i Morotai.
President was a disappointment.
Juliana (821 94309085) was almost full. All rooms are pleasant and brightly painted. Rooms with squat toilet were 260,000; some near the reception were at 350,000 but not only were very small but we feared they might be noisy. Deluxe rooms (400,000) were full with a big party of divers from Jakarta. We got a big triple room at 450,000 (later discounted at 400,000 so we wouldn’t move to a deluxe room) with a very small bathroom after I checked Hotel Johana which was not good value.
It seemed I was more tired than my husband because I didn’t hear a thing of the noise and music that night. He didn’t sleep at all. So very early in the morning I walked to Greenland Hotel, going by the huge Imanuel church. I saw too many rooms to count and liked none. As they weren’t cleaned yet I was amazed to see how Indonesians leave their rooms. Rubbish left here and there; nothing was put in the waste bin. The rates weren’t cheaper. The only advantage is that it is close to the black sand beach of Tanjung Pilawan. Complaining at our hotel about last night’s noise I was told there was a wedding party. So no need to change hotels.