Would you believe UK passport holders have to fork out 60 quid for a support letter to apply for a Pakistan visa, which costs a further 40 pounds here in Delhi - shocking! Anyhow, some general questions i'd like some help on:
1) I'm trying to work out what date to write down on my application for the Kygrystan visa, which i'll also collect here in Delhi. I plan to leave India the end of April - head to Islamabad and then up the KKH to Kashgar. Don't want to rush, neither have too much time before my Kygr visa begins. Was thinking of about Jun 20 - any thoughts for those who've riden this way?
2) In Kygrystan I plan to cross into Tajikistan and cycle the Pamir highway south from Sary Tash. Doing this however means hardly touring in Kygr at all. Looking at my Nelles CA map i was considering a detour north to Os-Ozgon, then heading southeast on a small road with another road branching off it before Sary Bee which will take me back onto the Pamir Highway between Os and Sary Tash. Anyone cycled this way? This small detour i estimate at about 10 days, but if anyone has any other recommendations in Kygr without going too far north please say.
3) I ask the above as my Tajik visa also must have a specified entry date on it - so was thinking about July 5th. I plan to pick up a Tajik visa in Islamabad. Has anyone done this? Have been instructed that i don't need a LOI for a visa application. I know cycling the Pamir Highway officially involves applying for a GBAO permit, which i feel may need the services of a tour agent (eg stantours for). If i do get the permit, i may not have it when i cycle south from Sary Tash. Has anyone cycled the PH from Sary Tash south and got through without a GBAO permit? Will an e-mail or fax of the GBAO permit surfice?
4) Appromimetly how long will it take to cycle from Sary Tash to Dushanbe?
Many thanks for anyone who can answer some of the questions or provide advice on this plan. Cheers, Peter
Hi Peter,
I thought us Americans had it tough paying $120 for a Pakistan visa! My condolences.
2. A more detailed map than the Nelles shows the connecting road that turns south near Sary Bee to Gulco as being 50km long, so it probably exists and might be fun in a challenging way.
3. Last year I met a Swiss cyclist who rode south to the Pamir Hwy. from Sary Tash, then was forced to return the way he came at Murgab because he had only a photocopy (e-mailed) of the GBAO permit. I suspect he could have gotten through by offering a financial consideration. So if the GBAO permit is required, you really should arrange to get an original copy, perhaps by having one sent to you at Osh; you could ask the Osh Community Based Tourism office if you could use their address.
--Bill
I was researching a similar route last year (didn't go alas). Does your route take you through Urumqi. If so, you can get your kyrgistan visa there. Someone mentioned this on here the other day.
Also, i remembering hearing several times that no good can come of not having the GBAO permit. If you don't have it, you might as well give the country a miss.
Hi Peter
Just to even things up, here's an account of some people who got through from Sary Tash without a GBAO permit. But it was in 2004 and they could speak good Russian.
With regard to your Kyrgz detour. The main issue is you have to go over two big passes, the Taldyk (3615m) and the Chyyyrchk (2408m), if you go to Osh, which you then have to recross on your way back south. The Taldyk is particularly tough going south. So, if you go, it's worth going for a while. I can recommend a visit to Arsalanbob - two days north from Osh (turn right at Bazaar Korgon). It's a very pretty village up in the mountains with great B&Bs and good trekking. It's great place for a couple of 2-3 days R&R.
Cheers
Tim
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