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In response to #6

Thanks Noel for interesting post. But I get the feeling that you meant to add
something more after the word 'work' here, and then maybe just forgot about it.
Could Noel please finish the sentence?

There are different approaches to chain wear on derailleur bikes that work
Regularly replace the chain before its elongation cuts into the teeth of the cogs.
There are different approaches to chain wear on derailleur bikes that work:
(a)Regularly replace the chain before its elongation cuts into the teeth of the cogs.
(b)Carry a spare chain on a long trip starting with a new one and swapping them at 4,000 km, recording it on the bag the chain is in so you know where you are up to and then swapping back to the first chain after the next 4,000, etc. (rotation system)
(c)Ride one good chain, keeping it clean, through to the point where it starts to slip and then replace all the cogs and the chain.

So...replace the chain before it wrecks the cogs, rotate the chain also before but by so doing almost double the independent trip length you can do, or ride it till its all slipping.

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11

This topic comes up about annually and (c) minus the cleaning seems the most usual. Most wouldn't do trips of 4k k. And an extra chain is heavy. And if you don't keep the chain clean and oiled, you unlikely would bother changing it.
Some people cut out a chain in 4k. Others could manage it at 12k to 15k. And 12 to 15k is about the life of the cogs. Seems, most usually
A chain from 8 to 9 speed is thinner.
There are different designs and quality of chain, and prices. Some are definitely only suitable for occasional around town rides.
Some are less inclined to use the gears and the chain is under continual load.
Some are inclined to use lazy gear choices. Rather than keep the chain running straight line, unstressed, they use opposing extreme cogs chain to cassette, and the chain is running at angle, stressed.
Others crunch gears rather than smooth changes. Or the set up doesn't compliment smooth changes.
And a biggy is where you ride. Some places you pick up a lot of grit.

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12

Oh my. Obviously a newbie to cycle maintenance. You never put regular oil on a bike chain unless you're desperate to oil it and have nothing else. But you better be pretty desperate and dirt poor. The brand I used when I cycled came in a black bottle, but don't remember the brand name. It wasn't sold outside of the U.S. (this was almost a decade ago).
When I used to bike and bike tour, I changed the chain every... don't remember the number. But if you read, read, read (BEFORE your tour) you'll know what it is. 2K or 3K miles (3K km or 5K km). Never carried an extra chain with me (no touring cyclist does that unless they're going into the depths of Mongolia and they know the change time is coming up soon. You're also supposed to put a new chain on when you change out the rear cogs. Most of the time I did that, not always.
If you're going to start bike touring (or really, even if you're not), start reading up on simple bike maintenance. Unless you enjoy putting money into the hands of the overpaid CEO's, you can do most yourself with common sense and a calendar.


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13

Yep hobo, tis what most tourers do. And very few would do 4k k's on a trip. Unless you are very rough on your bike to destroy them a quality chain and gears will last longer than that, often around 15k k's, with normal clean and oil. Wash with spirits and it takes the lube out of the links which is a bad thing. It's wear of the links that causes the chain to elongate. Only needed is soapy water and a soft brush to remove the external gunge. Then re oil. Takes only minutes. Actual in Asia many don't oil chains. Oil collects grit and that will destroy chains faster than not oiled. You may have notice their bikes squeak a lot.
Most before a trip figure aprox mileage and replace everything that won't last that long. And don't carry spare anything, not even a spare bike. I only occaisionaly in some countries carry a spare tyre and my trips are usually 3 months plus.

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14

OK, good advice, even from Hobo that hasnt been on a bike in ten years, or longer since he cant remember any details. But its the thought that counts.

Many blogs I read said they just got the dregs of oil out of a oilcan at a garage. I wont do this!
As I said I experimented with motor oil on my commuter, and can say that is definatley not a good method. I ride to work on a maincured bike path, very little dust. But the chain with motor oil on it somehow picked up an amazing amount of gunk. I could barely clean it up with solvent and a brush today. I will not use this method. Im hoping the roads I travel on are dusty, bumpy, and full of potholes--that is where I plan to travel.
Anyway, I think Ill carry a small bottle of good chain lube. I have been using T-9 for some years. One bottle should last the whole trip, if used sparingly. Or maybe try the idea of no lube as dotravel suggests. Ill try it for a while anyway.
I just read that alcohol makes a good solvent for cleaning chains. Ill give that an experiment maybe tomorrow. It would be a lot less messy on the road and evaporates quickly instead of using diesel fuel to clean my chain which is what I have been doing for some years. It seems to clean the chain well, but is messy.

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15

I suggest bringing self-cleaning chain lube from home, but only a non-flammable one.

In India, you can get small bottles of light oil used for Singer sewing machines. Clean motor oil will work OK. As noted above, apply sparingly to a clean chain for best results if you use an oil!

The chain-swapping thing is a myth--extra weight and hassle, yet you won't really reduce wear overall. Just use good quality chains, as noted above, and replace when too worn. There are small tools to measure chain wear. Of course, begin your trip with a new chain. Maybe carry a spare if the trip will be more than 4 months. I think you could get a replacement chain at Firefox Bikes at many locations in India. I find that the chainrings and cassette will last at least several times as long as the chain.

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16

If you take 2 bikes, then you can ride one and carry the other. That way your bikes will last twice as long!

Of course the swapping the chain thing will work, but why bother? My chains normally last 2 tours of 2.5 months and 2,500 kms. If really dirty I may change after one trip. Also, I don't like touching anything that is working OK, not to mention that I am a lazy sod and that sounds like unnecessary work to me.

You can use any oil. Stuff at the bottom of a can in a service station will work, because it is oil. It is also heavy and sticky. It is a useful tip to remember if you can't get anything (unlkely), better to have some hi tech bike lube. Probably cost about $ 5 a small bottle. Bring from home or buy in big city on arrival.

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17
In response to #16

OK, I think I am heading in that general direction. I think I can probably pick up some chain lube in Bangkok or Kathmandu (Ktm maybe a 'little shakey' at the moment) If not I can use motor oil for a while until I find some.Or just bring the smallest bottle I can find from home (non flammable)
Also, a spare chain is maybe not necessary. I have 4 bikes, and have never broken a chain.

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18
In response to #15

I suggest bringing self-cleaning chain lube from home, but only a non-flammable one.

In India, you can get small bottles of light oil used for Singer sewing machines. Clean motor oil will work OK. As noted above, apply sparingly to a clean chain for best results if you use an oil!

The chain-swapping thing is a myth--extra weight and hassle, yet you won't really reduce wear overall.

OK, this sounds good. The reason I asked is vbecause I am long on blog reading and short on real world bike experience. Headed to Asia in 6 weeks

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19

And make sure you bring some spare joiner links.
Last year on a small plane from Timor to Alor I did not have to package my folder but somehow they twisted the chain. A local chain was useless, slipping in all high gears. A joiner I had, replaced the bent link and is still working. Off sealed roads only use a quality dry lube. A dry rag will clean the outside of the chain and not remove the lubrication inside where it is essential.

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