advice on chain and lube for Asian travel

You can calculate your ratios here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

I use motorcycle chain spray. Its thin when applied but thickens into a wax, that doesn't attract dirt. When thin, it penetrates inside the chain where its needed and the surplus outside can be wiped off.

I did on one occasion get my spray confiscated, as its a fire hazard. I do however have a small can in my toiletbag. Its smaller and not more dangerous than a hairspray :-)

Before they confiscated the can, I lubed the chain thoroughly and drove 1000 km on that one lube, even through a sandstorm. Dedicated chainlube is much better and goes much longer than motoroil.

I start out with a new chain, ring and casette and only bring a few links and an assembly link. I don't see any reason for the hassle of changing chain every 2 weeks.

I don't think it is a good idea to use motor oil on your chain. Much of India is rather dusty and an oily chain is bound to pick up a lot of grime.
I prefer to use silicon chain lube. It comes in a small plastic bottle and is not a spray. It is a bit expensive to buy but lasts a long time. You had better bring this with you since it is just about impossible to find in India.

I also have 3x9 gears on my bike. With such a cassette you will also have a rather thin chain which would be nearly impossible to find in India.
Over the last six years I have done four bike trips through India. I have generally had a very lax attitude towards carrying spare parts and such, thinking that in India things will always work out. On my latest India-trip, from The Himalayas down middle India, I had some noise at times from my chain and worried that it might break and how totally out of options I would have been then. Eventually I came to a larger city and managed to buy a 'missing link' and never needed to use it anyway.

I have never had a chain break and I don't think I will carry any spare chain. But I will definitely carry a couple of 'missing links' and a chain splitter, just in case.
There is an Indian brand of 'modern' bikes, Firefox. They are not as good as they look but at least have some things in common with Western bikes. Nowadays there are quite many Firefox shops in India. I understand it as they are owned by Indian bike enthusiasts who want to get in early on a market with vast potential. As of yet they don't have many customers though, and not much parts in stock. Anyway outside of the biggest cities Firefox shops are generally your best bet for service.

I have whatever is the standard number of teeth on my chain rings.

On a 3*9 system it is important to use a good chain. Avoid the Shimano basic level. There is a 40-50% better life in their best 9 speed chain.
People refer to chain “stretch” but chains don’t actually stretch. The metal is not elongating under tension. Chains do lengthen but this is the result of grit wearing the hinge pins and sleeves of the chain. This grit initially adheres to the outside of the chain but does little harm there. It is when the grit reaches the inside of the chain that wearing occurs. Oiling a dirty chain virtually guarantees that wear will increase. It is the elongated chain that cuts into the teeth on cogs and causes them to wear to the point where the chain eventually starts to slip. Then all the cogs and the chain need to be replaced. So it is wise to thoroughly wash a chain with solvents occasionally. Oil it lightly only when it is clean. If the chain looks wet you have put too much on. Just wipe it off.
If you have been riding in rain the drying out of the chain will be more rapid so have some lube handy. Overall though, keep the chain a little on the dry side.
For long trips in the ‘old’ world, where getting a good quality 3/32” chain is generally impossible, we want chains that last as long as possible. This is similar to the interest in tyre and rim longevity. In the case of chains, their wearing out (manifested as getting longer) cuts into the sides of teeth on the cogs. These cogs are even harder to get and changing rear cogs requires special tools. On trips over 8,000km it is common to carry a spare middle front chainwheel and a spare chain.
There are different approaches to chain wearon derailleur bikes that work
Regularly replace the chain before its elongation cuts into the teeth of the cogs.
Carry a spare chain on a long trip starting with a new one and swapping them at 4,000 km, recording it on the bag the chain is in so you know where you are up to and then swapping back to the first chain after the next 4,000, etc. (rotation system)
Ride one good chain, keeping it clean, through to the point where it starts to slip and then replace all the cogs and the chain.
In short, if the trip is under 5,000km and you have a good 3/32 chain just ride it and don't worry.
In your next life try a Rohloff internal rear hub gear system, with an eccentric bottom bracket and a Hebie chainglider.

I don't think it is a good idea to use motor oil on your chain. Much of India is rather dusty and an oily chain is bound to pick up a lot of grime.
I prefer to use silicon chain lube. It comes in a small plastic bottle and is not a spray. It is a bit expensive to buy but lasts a long time. You had better bring this with you since it is just about impossible to find in India.

I also have 3x9 gears on my bike. With such a cassette you will also have a rather thin chain which would be nearly impossible to find in India.
Over the last six years I have done four bike trips through India. I have generally had a very lax attitude towards carrying spare parts and such, thinking that in India things will always work out. On my latest India-trip, from The Himalayas down middle India, I had some noise at times from my chain and worried that it might break and how totally out of options I would have been then. Eventually I came to a larger city and managed to buy a 'missing link' and never needed to use it anyway.

I have never had a chain break and I don't think I will carry any spare chain. But I will definitely carry a couple of 'missing links' and a chain splitter, just in case.
There is an Indian brand of 'modern' bikes, Firefox. They are not as good as they look but at least have some things in common with Western bikes. Nowadays there are quite many Firefox shops in India. I understand it as they are owned by Indian bike enthusiasts who want to get in early on a market with vast potential. As of yet they don't have many customers though, and not much parts in stock. Anyway outside of the biggest cities Firefox shops are generally your best bet for service.

I have whatever is the standard number of teeth on my chain rings. Yes, silicone gear lube, and bring it with me. Im washing off the motor oil experiment today, and putting back the expensive T-9 or whatever it is I have there. I dont like the motor oil. Im still not sure if I am bringing an extra chain or not. On the other hand, if I am stressing too much just bring it. Ill have too much stuff anyway on my first trip, and if I decide to I can sell/throw away/send home my too much extra stuff.
Ive been to Asia like 24 winters so far. I almost took the bike last winter, trhen at the last miniuts changed my mind. But Ive trekked every trail in Nepal more than 10 times each. Time for something new.

Yes, I have your blog riding from Kathmandu to Bombay.

I don't think it is a good idea to use motor oil on your chain. Much of India is rather dusty and an oily chain is bound to pick up a lot of grime.
I prefer to use silicon chain lube. It comes in a small plastic bottle and is not a spray. It is a bit expensive to buy but lasts a long time. You had better bring this with you since it is just about impossible to find in India.

I also have 3x9 gears on my bike. With such a cassette you will also have a rather thin chain which would be nearly impossible to find in India.
Over the last six years I have done four bike trips through India. I have generally had a very lax attitude towards carrying spare parts and such, thinking that in India things will always work out. On my latest India-trip, from The Himalayas down middle India, I had some noise at times from my chain and worried that it might break and how totally out of options I would have been then. Eventually I came to a larger city and managed to buy a 'missing link' and never needed to use it anyway.

I have never had a chain break and I don't think I will carry any spare chain. But I will definitely carry a couple of 'missing links' and a chain splitter, just in case.
There is an Indian brand of 'modern' bikes, Firefox. They are not as good as they look but at least have some things in common with Western bikes. Nowadays there are quite many Firefox shops in India. I understand it as they are owned by Indian bike enthusiasts who want to get in early on a market with vast potential. As of yet they don't have many customers though, and not much parts in stock. Anyway outside of the biggest cities Firefox shops are generally your best bet for service.

I have whatever is the standard number of teeth on my chain rings. Yes, silicone gear lube, and bring it with me. Im washing off the motor oil experiment today, and putting back the expensive T-9 or whatever it is I have there. I dont like the motor oil. Im still not sure if I am bringing an extra chain or not. On the other hand, if I am stressing too much just bring it. Ill have too much stuff anyway on my first trip, and if I decide to I can sell/throw away/send home my too much extra stuff.
Ive been to Asia like 24 winters so far. I almost took the bike last winter, trhen at the last miniuts changed my mind. But Ive trekked every trail in Nepal more than 10 times each. Time for something new.

Yes, I have your blog riding from Kathmandu to Bombay. You sent it to me lsast year. I almost took the bike last year, but at the last miniute stashed it and went without it

Thanks Noel for interesting post. But I get the feeling that you meant to add
something more after the word 'work' here, and then maybe just forgot about it.
Could Noel please finish the sentence?

There are different approaches to chain wear on derailleur bikes that work
Regularly replace the chain before its elongation cuts into the teeth of the cogs.

Oil little and often.
Lubricate every 100 miles or so of dry riding. more often when riding in wet conditions.
Use a PTFE dry lub from muc-off or white lightning. Shake the bottle first, apply the oil to the inside of the chain while peddling backwards. The oil is runny and penetrates in to the chain pin and roller, pedal and change though the gears and then wipe off excess oil. Let the oil dry before riding. Use mudguards to help reduce dirt flicking up on to the chain.
Before oiling a dirty chain, use a little de-grease , sprayed on to a rag and wipe the chain, let it dry. Also wipe the chainring teeth and derailleur jockywheels and then lubricate.
Don't use spary lub, you end up putting to much on and it wont penetrate in to the chain and dirt will stick to the over spray.
Some riders use 2 chains, so the teeth on chainrings and sprockets least longer (Get more life out of them before they start slipping)

"Also--I have 22T on the front chainring, 36T on the rear."
That is a low gear ratio and you will find pedaling up hill with a load ok.

Also make sure you don't ride using the middle chainring all r=the time as you will wear it out!

See http://www.cycletechuk.com/p/a-worn-chain-cyclists-often-speak-of.html

I use motorcycle chain spray. Its thin when applied but thickens into a wax, that doesn't attract dirt. When thin, it penetrates inside the chain where its needed and the surplus outside can be wiped off.

When this lube is thin, it doubles as a cleaner, so just dry off the surplus and the dirt will follow onto the rag. No need for extra cleaners.

Main reason motor oil is used in Asia is it's easy to get. Usually it's used oil as it's easiest to to get and free.
The negatives is that it is designed for a different purpose. It is usually thick, less viscosity, and doesn't get into the links, the part that wears the most. (If you need it can be thinned with kerosene, which is not bad, it's also a lubricant) Dirt and grime sticks to and mixes with it. Not a desirable thing.
Used motor oil has become acidic, has abrasives, primarily carbon, mixed with it. The process of combustion and engine wear. Both bad things for a chain. Oil from a diesel engine is worst. These are the reason why the motor oil was changed for it to become used. Oil doesn't wear out. It only becomes contaminated. Which is why it is discolored.
But any oil is better than no oil.
Compared to replacing an entire drive, specific chain lube is cheap. These come in two basic types. Wet and dry. Wet is considered the better, but holds dust and washes off with wet. Not so good. Dry is considered better for most tourers. Less inclined to either.
A few carry two chains and rotate them. Most don't. Unnecessary weight and drama. Preferring all to wear together, and wear out together, and be replaced together. When the chain has done it's life, the cogs are not far behind. Especially the smaller cassette and idler cogs. What you pay for is often what you get. Best quality and daily lube and the drive train lasts many k k's. More than most do on a trip. Most gears short life is lack of daily clean and lube. Daily care will double their problem free life.
The 3X9 speed. Many are of the thinking the same as wheel size. If you need replacement parts, will they be available. In many countries tourers go to, the latest hi tech stuff won't be.
Do what suits you. And with the where you are riding.