Part FOUR - Vietnam with a Peak into Southern China

The bus from Da Lat to Nha Trang, picked us up at 7:30 a.m. in front of Dreams Hotel. We showed the fellow our tickets asking if this was the correct bus. “Yes, madam - - please get on the bus.” We stored our baggage - grabbed a seat and were driven to Sinhcafe’s Da Lat bus depot. It turned out that this bus was a shuttle, as we were all asked to get off and also to haul off our baggage. We were again asked to produce our tickets for another check, at which each all of us was directed to a larger bus heading for Nha Trang. We reloaded our bags and then plunked ourselves down into two seats noted on our tickets. Shortly thereafter a young woman came on board with an attendant in tow – and it was conveyed to H & me that she thought we had taken her seat. Again, my ticket was checked and THIS time - we were told we were on the wrong bus. Right !! We were NOT too happy about the on again, off again – stow, and re-stow effort, as each time our ticket had been checked, and each time we had asked. But now - we were concerned that we had missed our bus – the only bus going that day – and would therefore miss our flight from Nha Trang to Danang. Again, were asked to take off our baggage and this time they advised, “Do not worry madam, we will look after you”. By this time it was 8:10 a.m. and the bus we should have been on, was scheduled to have left by now. The staff of Sinh Cafe were fairly slow to get things moving, and it took some time before they contacted our correct bus company. We were next advised to hire a taxi in order to transport us to the ‘other’ bus depot. Mutter grumble….. but what choice did we have. At this time, I was very glad that we had allowed enough time for the possible of unforeseen snafus, by deciding to take the bus from Da Lat to Nha Trang – and not flying direct to Hoi An, but staying overnight in Nha Trang.

The ‘right’ bus was thankfully waiting for us on our arrival and it was packed to the gunnels. H sat up front and I really lucked in to sit by an English fellow on a year’s get-a-way. He was so interesting and so enjoyable, having travelled extensively on his own and shared his experiences and laughs … however, my listening with thorough enjoyment to his experiences, caused havoc with my future travel plans :)

Based on previous experience we were reluctant to drink anything and again stored our travel bottles in cargo. Once we were settled, the bus attendants then proceeded to fill up the entire isle with backpacks and suitcases, so that on our first pit stop (we actually had one !) we had to literally walk on top of the baggage in order to exit the bus. I was hesitant about this for often I have sorted an item or two - in my pack - that would have broken if someone placed their full weight on it, especially if at a run – so I and others with obviously the same thought, ended up straddling the isles in trying to make an exit from the bus. I’ll tell you – that was an odd site watching some of us get out. I sat 2nd last seat right isle in the bus. So to exit, I placed left foot on seat to left of me – right foot on right seat in front of me – left foot on the next left aisle seat and so on. Sometimes it was too difficult being that the 'road was very uneven' - and passengers had to walk directly on top of all the baggage ...... There were many very tall and hefty young men - quite galloping down that aisle, using all the baggage for their walkway. When pushing off onto the next footing, a lot of weight is planted onto the pack. YIKES.

Coming back on board, some gave up with this process and entered thru the back window using the rear bus tire as leverage, and then tumbled through. On one stop, the young parents with 3 little boys all under the age of 6 - who had taken up the entire back seat of the bus, also gave up with this hassle and using the back tire as leverage - were able to toss their children, one at a time, into the bus. I watched each small child coming through - boggled eyed yet full of trust and one with delight.

We arrived in Nha Trang at 5 p.m. As we were travelling on the next day, we decided to take the accommodation offered when the bus stopped in Nha Trang. It would only be to replenish our water intake, shower and sleep ‘till next morning, so what could we lose. This proved to be a choice we definitely would not repeat. However, we did get a good dinner sitting at a road side stand on stools the height and size I would provide for kindergarten children – so farrrr down and small. It really is an “ooof” to squish down that far, and then to realize there is so little space upon which to park ones butt – which in my case wasn’t shrinking with this wonderful food. The pork brochettes, rice and mixed fresh veggies we had – perched on our tiny chairs on that street corner - were just excellent.

As advised, 8 a.m. the following morning, we went down to the foyer to ask about breakfast, and were told that they “were not offering that today”. Well hell. We had found out the previous evening, that there wasn’t a place opening in the morning for breakfast within walking distance and we had to get a move on to meet our flight. For emergencies, I had packed away some large ritz crackers filled with cheese, so our breakfast was the cheese and crackers and water to wash it down. Certainly good enough tho. But I missed that coffee. I was already getting spoiled.

The previous day, we had also ordered a taxi for the next morning. It was to get us to the airport one hour before our 12 noon flight to Da Nang. Reception at the time, said that it should take about 10 minutes so it was best to be picked up at 11 am. That morning, something was nagging at me – possible traffic problems ? I have no idea – but I was uncomfortable and followed the ‘push’ in my mind, to alter our pickup to at least 15 minutes earlier.

So at 10:30 am, we again approached reception. This time we met with a new person, and on my asking her to alter the timing of our airport pickup – we discovered that previous reception had provided us incorrect advice, as there was now a new airport and this one took 45 minutes to get there. EEEK!! Hurry, hurry hurry !!!! With urgency in her voice, she contacted the taxi.

Taxi driver arrived within minutes and confirmed that we would get there in 45 minutes !! Positive he is – big smile – “We make it” ! Oh hell – what choice do I have anyway – so we throw in our bags … and off we crawl and stop – and crawl and stop – through a maize of pedestrians, motorcycles, cars and bicycles – of course, all going in any which way. The slowness is agony. Thinking of the 40 to 60k/h maximum speed limit in Vietnam, stressed my mind even more. On top of this, the distance was approx 40k to the new airport. I kept telling myself, “do not think about it - relax”. Hah !! With our trying to get out of Nha Trang using the taxi, we later found there was little difference between the traffic in Ha Noi - - unless someone’s taxi could play leap frog. Here is a good pic in Ha Noi, to show you what I mean. Traffic in Vietnam

Allow for LOTS of time fellow travellers.

Once we are out of town, taxi driver noticeably picked up speed – past 10 to 15k/h and up to 40k/h. And - once we hit the new freeway, we noted speed limit signs of 40k/h, and taxi driver was now going 80k/h ! We entered into another new section of road at which his speedometer now was at 120k/h !!! He flew over various series of speed bumps – made my head feel as if all my teeth were going to fall out with the very fast and hefty repetitive bump, bump, bump, bump, bump, bump Gaaah ! BUT – I wasn’t gonna complain. Nope. Well – to make a long story short - we made it – on time – and we gave him a huge tip. Everyone was well pleased. At the end of all this, I had fleeting memories of reading ‘something’ about the airport changing … but had thought to put my complete faith in the hotel. I wasn’t going to do that again.

The flight to Danang was really easy – the pretty ladies wearing an áo dài as a uniform, served us a snack of a sweet bun stuffed with cucumber and a type of processed meat, a tiny chocolate bar and a small bottle of water. Such a short flight – just one hour - and certainly this was not necessary – so I stuffed all in my on board, to eat later in the day. It was excessively easy to catch a taxi to Hoi An.

We had reserved when at home at the Thanh Xuan Hotel in Hoi An, and were exceptionally pleased that we had – so many were being turned away - and so many were noting how nice it was there. Trip Advisor will confirm this. We paid $20.00 per night – for 2 singles, large bathroom, small fridge, TV, including fabulous breakfast in the garden. Very well appointed, excellent help/advice, free internet, newspapers, books to borrow, bikes to rent – the list goes on. We very much enjoyed our stay. H said I just HAD to include the photo of their bathtub – he really enjoyed that :) Bathtub

We had breakfast within the back garden choosing from various tables scattered about. The area is mostly fenced in leafy bamboo 12 – 15 metres high and backed by a large field, which is home to many birds and huge butterflies. We also had the pleasure of two small boats plunked in the garden - filled with water and lotus plants - so that each morning we were greeted with the lovely blossoms. It is lovely and peaceful here – great way to start a day.

For breakfast I chose 2 boiled eggs, fresh pineapple juice, bread, jam, butter and of course, that gorgeous Vietnamese coffee. The ‘bread’ I have noticed, has steadily changed since arrival in Saigon. In Saigon it appeared to be the traditional French baguette but as we travelled northward, I noticed that the offering became more thick, which I much prefer, and by the time we reached Hoi An, it easily became an item of which I could make a meal, instead of with one nibble, and most disappearing in flakes and crumbs left all over the table. H had pancakes, fresh fruit plate with yoghurt and coffee. The Vietnamese VINA brand yoghurt is very tasty.

I had sworn I would NEVER ride a bike in this traffic, yet found myself renting a mountain bike from Thanh Xuan Hotel – to pedal to the Cua Dai Beach. Yee gads – I really do not want to do that ever again. I erroneously had thought this should be a fairly quiet ride. The new year celebrations cover quite a few days, thus roads were packed - even more than normal. 8 motorcyclists and add on H and myself on bicycles – all travelling down the main road in a close group. I am riding on the outside right. Another motorcyclist appeared from a side road directly on my right – and drove straight at me. Does he think that I am going to disappear for cripes sake ?! I am travelling 4-5” next to the curb with another on a bike within inches to my left – and others within inches behind and in front of me - and there is a mass of traffic travelling in the opposite direction ½ metre to my left. I cannot stop for those behind will run into me and I cannot turn left to get out of his way ... and the curb – ah heck. Arrgggh was more like it. Again – I am uptight as heck – stutter time again LOL.

I still do not know what happened – ‘things’ went the way for this fellow – for ‘somehow’ he drove right thru the group of us - and then - immediately turned left, directly into the sardine packed traffic travelling in the opposite direction. No screeching of brakes – no yelling. Phewww !!

The balance of my ride was enjoyable, interesting and really very easy. There's nothing to do !! It was about a 5k pedal to reach the beach. We parked our bikes in an open garage - $1.00/bike/day. Bikes were locked together and we were offered a card to present in order to get them back. The beach is beautiful – endless white sand - very quiet – few waves. Perfect. Unfortunately this is not me - but still an excellent pic of the beach

We walked by a walled in concrete pad with walls approx 1.5 metres high, into which fresh water flowed with a great rush. Mothers were struggling to wash off the sand covering their children’s bodies and young boys were rushing about throwing water on each other midst wild shrieks and gales of laughter – and older boys were sprucing up, ready to leave the beach. Peddlers were selling all sorts of whatnot on the beach - everything from peanuts to volleyballs and nail polish. We wandered over to one of the open restaurants - purchased two fruit drinks – and next found ourselves some beach chairs under umbrellas for which we were charged $1.00/day for rental. And it was there that we plopped ourselves down for a well deserved rest. Ouch !! H let out a yelp as he banged his head on the back of the chair – as was much lower than he had anticipated – so following his surprise I kept my head forward – but I too emitted a yelp .... as I found that the chair kept sinking ! ... until I was almost on beach level. There was a Japanese fellow close by who was trying his best to cover a smile at my – er – surprise - at which I responded with a wide grin. All this because Vietnamese people in some areas - are shorter than the average North American/European – did anyone know this ? LOL

We ended up spending 3 hours at the beach of which ½ an hour of time, I had a foot to knee massage and next a head massage. They were very good, although for a bit there I wondered if she wanted to pocket my toes with all her stretching. Me at the Spa on the Beach

As we lay in our low slung lounges, a small boy came up to us, selling peanuts, candies, tiger balm and multi etceteras a visitor might need when at the beach. H wanted some candies – so while he is searching for the appropriate dong - the little one asked “Where are you from ?”. When I replied “Canada” … he replied “A Canadian !”, and his face split with a huge smile. I was stunned ... and once we paid up and gave him a good tip, he said, “Thank you very much and have a good day.” WOW .... Very good little one ! Keep that up and may you and your family prosper well.

There is a great deal of ‘obvious’ history in Hoi An – with well preserved buildings - and the investigation and reading up, only encouraged me to read further. The city being referred to as a “Living Museum” is no exaggeration.
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When you walk down these old streets, they are so narrow you must ‘cohabit’ with motorcycles and cyclists – thus skinned and bruised body parts do happen – and make sure you are not wearing anything too loose, for the ‘appendages’ sticking out from the cycles, have a tendency to grab. Speaking from experience I am.) Click Here
There are lots of nice restaurants in interesting buildings.
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We discovered to our dismay, that before and after the February 17th TET festival, many shops had quite a struggle with staffing as their regular help was not available being on vacation. I had left a pair of trousers to be copied and also requested for some very loose cotton caftan type shirts to be made, complete with embroidery. I had drawn a picture which they kept. The new trousers arrived and were one size smaller than the original – and they had changed from a fitted waist to a hipster. The supposedly loose shirts in frail cotton for humidity, had been sewn to fit me as if I was a mannequin and the fabric my skin. Expert tailoring most certainly, but not what I wanted. I was seriously distressed – they asked me to come back the next day.

I then realized - that at least for the tops – measurements had been forwarded to the cutter but nothing else. With my trousers I had no idea what happened. The upshot was that on our third appointment, I was very firm about my distress – made it clear what was wrong and what I expected - and that is when the person from the first appointment appeared and said she knew what was wrong. She would make new ones within the day - the other would produce new tops, and they insisted on picking me up at the hotel on their motorcycle to take me to their shop for the final. Everything was just perfect and I was thrilled. They were distressed with what had happened and explained that their normal help was on vacation. I received endless I’m sorry’s and endless hugs. Buttt – the point is for that future traveller – be careful if you order some work during this time. For I had endlessly read on the TT, before leaving, that TET shouldn’t cause me any trouble for anything. It definitely ended up being BIG trouble for us, for what would we have done if we had scheduled to leave the next day as most do. TET also caused us much havoc with reservations for travelling. Anyway – just a good point to remember.

We celebrated New Years Eve in Hoi An - truly a WOW of entertainment - so exciting - stage performances right next to the river - heavily ethnic (excessively interesting and often majestic) to superbly staged modern shows - excellent midnight fireworks display. Displays everywhere – the 5 colours always present - the 5 different shapes of fruit – the votive papers being burned. Many Lanterns were sent down the river - they were set in paper stands to appear as lotus flowers and in the dark, it was an exceptionally lovely experience. A truly wonderful experience.
Everything One might need for TET
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The architecture is wonderful - so much love and labour and years upon years of work in order to create all this. And I was also thrilled with the abundance of beautiful clothing and whatnot, being sold for much less than what I would pay in Canada – and of good quality. Not just in Hoi An but all through Vietnam. With this in mind, I was not happy that I was allowed only so much weight in cargo on the airplane. Well – I could take more, but the cost would have been exorbitant. If I was not later visiting some very cold parts of the country (read "snow"), I would have had much more space in my baggage. pfffft

We purchased a ticket - which included a series of tickets to specific venues - to enable us to visit “The Old Town”. This proved to be worth while for there were excessively interesting museums and other structures within the old town. I just cannot do any better than this cut and paste:
In the 16th and 17th centuries, Hoi An was the international trading centre in Southern Viet Nam. Foreign merchant ships came to Hoi An in great numbers for annual commercial fairs, each lasted from 4 to 6 months. Right in this town, Japanese, Chinese, Dutch, Indian traders set up their emporiums or established their own quarters for permanent habitation. Thanks to fortunate opportunities, the old town of Hoi An, an unique concentration of architectural monuments of various forms: living house, assembly hall, communal house, pagoda, shrine, temple, water well, bridge, market, wharf … has been preserved intact. They are along the streets that cut one another, forming palaces and giving a good example of symbolic oriental cities in the Middle Age. So wonderful with its old aged and traditionally well kept cultural activities, habits and customs, the town is now a wonderful living museum of architecture and urban life style.”
Of course we spent much time mooching around – so much to investigate and so much to taste. We did attend a ‘western’ café tho – and we very much enjoyed that. Next to the river – the Cargo Club. They have fresh pastries - a treat that is high on H’s list for an afternoon break together with coffee - mind you the meals were excellent too.

Have had many bumps in the road getting this far from Saigon - but no matter what happens, as H has often said, all the people here are either very friendly, or VERY VERY friendly. I have also noticed that the further north we travelled, the more hectic and packed is the traffic. And as I have told friends, my being of an ancient age really helped in my travels this year - for I have not appreciated my extra droopiness, wrinkles and whatever else .... but here it is a plus - whoopeee - haha.

We took a day tour to visit the World Heritage site of My Son (pronounced Meee saaaaan – with the ‘n’ relatively quiet). The tour started with about 15 of us in a small bus heading for the river, where we next boarded a vessel for transport up the river. Click Here On the way we stopped at a small island renown for its wood carving. Click Here The driving and then puttering by the local areas in our boat, was always interesting. Bath Time Hoi An’s port itself was mayhem when a vessel docked. Hoi An Sea Bus :)

I had read when still at home, that many thought of Angkor Wat when visiting the My Son site, and in comparing, thought it not worthy. I think Angkor is more than fantastic, and look forward to visiting again … however, these comments prompted me to read further, and am sure is what made my visit quite enjoyable.
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The My Son site is located in a very lush secluded valley. Humidity was high even in February, and everyone was dripping in sweat. Thick with Humidity Unfortunately, there was huge damage received from the Vietnam war.

I read that the Champa people prospered from the 4th to 12th centuries and that My Son was the religious centre for the ancient Champa Kingdom. Also that the site was once an imperial city, with over 70 towers. The thing is … “The Champa people were raised to be masters of the art of building with rock and My Son is the greatest surviving example of that talent. Their advanced building technique was based on tightly packed smooth bricks, without any form of securing mortar, and it proved to last many centuries.” And there is so much more. I also discovered that this was a Matriarchal society … and that certainly interested me and I had lots of questions. When / if a woman wanted to marry, she would have a parteee and invite all available men – and – er – decide from there. You read up for yourself. I might get bumped off for impropriety LOL For those that are interested, there is more in this URL re history of the Champa people. Click Here

And here is a pic of the port of Hoi An – as we return from our day trip - it ‘looks’ rather peaceful at that time. Click Here

We now needed to get our stuff together as we were next heading for Hue.

Continued ....

Thanks---what a good post!

Sigh and sigh again. Great stuff.

Wow! I can't believe you post many long, interesting, and very detailed reports. I guess you could be a professional writer if you want to.

You must be a very positive and fun to be with.

Thank you and please have more.