PART Five - 2 mos. Vietnam & a hop into China

Hehehe - I'm way ahead of you - where's the rest?

I think my reply would get bumped off - go and hug your cute little furry whatsit for a bit. LOL
P.S. - your photos are gorgeous. AND - where the heck is your post re your fantastic trip this summer ?

Sinhcafe bus picked us up at our hotel and we made our way back to Da Nang and then travelled onward to Hue. 12 people on this large and exceptionally comfortable bus. Knockout views all the way. Drove past seemingly endless white sand beaches – with not a soul about – with the occasional barren and extensive area, bordered with concrete fences … and decorated with billboards declaring the site as some marvellous upcoming tourist destination.

We were dropped at the Sinhcafe in Hue, where we caught a cyclo to take us to our accommodation. As I had booked through HostelBookers (price I cannot get from walking off the street) I had assumed The Orchid was a hostel – however, it turned out to be a more than fabulous hotel - in an excellent location being one block from the Perfume (Huong) River. There were many restaurants offering yummy food and varying types of shops about – with up to date and fun fashions. We were surprised with the amenities and service in The Orchid and felt we were in Europe. $25.00 per night including ample breakfast.
Our Room
Our Beds
Orchid

I examined a small pamphlet left in our room which was suggesting places to visit. Landmarks such as Vinh Moc village’s system of tunnels dug during the Vietnam war – or visiting the college that Ho Chi Minh attended – there is a great deal to do here. I noted motorbike tours were offered of the surrounding area. As we had thoroughly enjoyed our time with Easy Riders, we went off in search of Café on Thu Wheels. A bit difficult to find – we trudged and we trudged – missed that tiny alley 4 times – even following advice from the locals had us missing it. However, hanging in with the to’ing and fro’ing …. was SO well worth it. Good food, prices, atmosphere and excellent guides.

Café on Thu Wheels is a tiny café, located in an exceptionally tiny alley (street) just off Nguyen Tri Phuong Street. We were offered the choice of driving our own bike, or hiring a guide to take us about of which the latter was our choice, as then we would learn so much being able to pester our guide with questions and being able to access areas of which I wouldn’t be aware when zooming by. I wouldn’t be aware of half the places to ‘zoom’ by in the first place LOL. We had an incredible experience full of learning and fun - and in truth I enjoyed this excursion far more than Easy Riders, simply as Hue area offered us far more heritage sites with many temples, palaces and mausoleums of the Nguyen Dynasty, plus museums and many beautifully designed Buddhist pagodas and temples. Our Super Thu on Wheels guides Never to put down Easy Riders tho – as BOTH teams were fantastic.

Here are some bits and pieces (pics) of always thoroughly enjoyable days in Hue. Even so my guide told me he would stop anywhere I wished - I found it best to snap a picture and hang on at the same time – for all the activity I was viewing would of course cease, once I stopped at a scene. Always I delighted in watching the young women riding their bikes – backs so straight with their lovely long hair. Click Here

Once out of town, we found ourselves zipping through minority villages. Click Here
The paths were narrow – and room for two did not exist with the entire area full of water ways. Click Here
Click Here

We stopped at an elaborately carved Japanese wooden bridge – now a place for villagers to meet for a cool break from the heat. A gift from a Japanese woman to the villagers as she had no heirs. Inside there is a shrine dedicated to her and a wooden bench lining both sides for visitor use. Even now, the entire village continue to pray for her. Thanh Toan Bridge

We visited Vong Canh Hill, a Vietnam holding during the war – now a serene memorial – providing splendid panoramas including Kings Nguyen’s tombs and the valley itself. Much is still cordoned off re unexploded bombs. Click Here

Visited Tu Hieu Pagoda built in 1843 – the home of Buddhist monks since inception. Not a simple pagoda … but consisting of various buildings of elegant architecture with equally elegant ponds, walkways and overall landscaping. The large area is spectacularly lovely and calming.
Main Entrance to Lotus Pond
Click Here
Click Here

The monks’ tombs were interesting in that the higher the level of the tomb, the higher the respect for that monk - with the highest honour being 7-layers of the Lotus flower. Click Here I noted huge tortoises carved on the top of tombs and my guide explained that these were the tombs of eunuchs (who looked after the concubines) and that a tortoise symbolised a long life. Feng Shui is used a great deal here in the grave site areas - there is always some decorative barrier to prevent walking straight in. Click Here

Novice monks here keep three clomps of hair for approximately the first five years of monk hood. Click Here
Click Here
The Main Sanctuary is active and you can listen to the peaceful chanting of prayers. Click Here

Another extraordinarily large and glorious site was the Royal Tomb area of Emporer Tu Duc - Nguyen dynasty - a magnificent complex surrounded by a 1500 metre wall. My husband referred to this as a masterpiece of park and architecture. In an attempt to foil grave robbers, Tu Duc’s body wasn’t buried in the tomb, and all those who were involved with the burial were beheaded. Everything constructed, was designed to fit in with the landscape … and it does. Click Here
Click Here Xung Khiem Pavilion on Luu Khiem Lake, is where Tu Duc spent his days fishing and reading. I just had to go inside and – to get a perspective so to speak –I sat with my feet hanging over the edge :) My goodness, what a tough life this man had. Click Here The Chi Khiem Temple is dedicated to Tu Duc’s minor wives and his predecessors.
Click Here
The numerous mausoleums, courtyards and surrounding gardens would take a full day to investigate and then still there would not be enough time.

Another day, we hired cyclos and travelled across the bridge to visit Don Ba Market – irresistible in its high content of Vietnamese culture and food. People living in villages distances away, would come via the waterways to sell their items. Totally packed with people and absolutely anything one would think of buying. You had to sharpen your elbows for with every metre, someone was insisting we buy from them. A pogo stick would have been helpful to get about on the floor, as there was so much whatnot including feet, sitting out and about not in stalls. Squeeze room only – you couldn’t just walk away at ease unless you were prepared to tromp over a pack of people wondering what you wished to buy/might be interested in, because smack next to the pack, was another – and so on. Great prices for everything – hard bargaining essential, although sometimes I was just too happy with my purchase and price didn’t bother much. I loved the Nón Bài Tho - the conical straw hat. A poem is written inside which can only be read when held up to the light.

We hired a dragon boat to take us over to The Citadel – the ancient royal city modelled after Beijing’s Forbidden City.

We were dropped off at a lovely pavilion Click Here and we galloped up the grassy slope - crossed the road to enter The Citadel. It looks uninteresting from the outside Click Here…..

But the inside is a totally different matter. Circling the entirety is a wall approx 10 kilometres, 20 metres wide x 6 metres high and also a moat approximately 23 metres wide x 4 metres deep. Within all this, is the Forbidden Purple city – previous home to the royal family. Unfortunately a good deal was demolished due to the Vietnam war – however, they have repaired a fair amount. A solid portion of the Queens Residence received little damage or was easy to repair. Some buildings we were allowed in to visit. What survived or has been repaired, is beautiful. Ngo Mon gate, built in 1833, leads to the Imperial Palace. It served as the main entrance and was also the Royal viewing stage for major court ceremonies. There are five gates to Ngo Mon, with the central gate being reserved for the kings only. Click Here
West Gate
Emperor’s Library
Pond next to Library
Click Here

Impossibly huge area to see in one day – being 6 square kilometres. We concentrated on the Imperial Compound and hardly saw all of it.
Assembly Hall
Repaired Walkway

We later visited the Fine Arts Museum – handsome and interesting artefacts showcasing the diverse architectural heritage - well worth the visit. Unfortunately we were not permitted to take photos.

My digital camera gave up the ghost and I was forced to go in search of a replacement. Found a tiny shop in Hue and purchased an excellent SONY digital at a price $200.00 less than what I would have paid at home. Concern was stressed re warranty acceptance in my home country, however, I registered all on line, and it was accepted. I just love my new baby.

Next – we caught a flight from Hue to Ha Noi.

Continued ...

Aaahh, such a wonderful travelogue (made me miss a programme I had ear-marked for definite watching today) and the pictures are sooo good.
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<hr>The Chi Khiem Temple is dedicated to Tu Duc’s minor wives and his predecessors. Click here<hr></blockquote>
Only one snag, the link mentioned here comes up as being forbidden. My goodness, what was the picture about??

I don't think my whale watching in Victoria quite matches your travelogue, so I'm not posting anything about it. You'll have to wait until next year, if I get to Rapa Nui that is.

Keep the reports coming!

Watsoff:
Soreeeeeeee - not what you had hoped - there was a gliche in my programme. haha
Chi Khiem Temple

I love to sit in areas that were once regularly populated with people - especially ancient benches under an ancient tree - or this temple entrance in Hue .... and I put my palm on the side and wonder who else did the same - what were they wearing then - and what were they thinking - blah blah :)

Re your thinking whale watching is uninteresting ..... all I can say is .... HUH !!!? :)

I am sure there are many on this board wishing you a trip next year to Rapa Nui - you have had quite a bummer of a time, and more than deserve this trip. So look forward to your report.