PART EIGHT – From Hanoi - a quick tromp into China

As we required Visas for our short visit to China we had previously walked to the Chinese Embassy in Hanoi – stood in line with many others for over an hour and a half – only to be told at approximately noon hour, that they were closing the doors for the day and advised to return the next day to repeat the same process. It was a lengthy walk to the Embassy and others had been standing in line for at least 3 hours – so on hearing that this early closing was a common happening - we found ourselves encouraged to approach the small independent travel office located in the foyer within the Camilla-2 in Hanoi, where we were staying. The young woman manning the desk proved to be very helpful for us.

Our Chinese Visas – were a total individual cost of $75.00 US - this included $15.00 commission, $60.00 actual fee – plus 2.5 dong for our request for extra quick service. We were forced to change our planned mode of transport by train, on discovering that they were booked solid from Hanoi one full month ahead, thus only the bus or plane was available. We were determined to visit what was regularly tooted as a most fabulous area to visit in China – even better than HaLong Bay - and thinking the bus trip would be interesting, we stood with purchasing bus tickets.

Our travel agent was allowed by law, only to purchase the bus ticket from Hanoi, Vietnam to Nanning, China. From thereon to Yangshuo and wherever else - plus return to Hanoi, we would be on our own for purchasing transportation. The bus from Hanoi to Nanning, China was $10.50 one way. So it was over the border with the locals. It took about 8 hours to get to Nanning - where we stayed overnight and carried on the next day, to travel for another 6 hours in a different bus heading for Yangshuo. It was a wonderful and comfortable experience.

Our bus did not leave from the regular bus station, but from the Green Tomato Restaurant in Hanoi, where we squeezed inside the café, in wait with all the locals. It proved to be an exceptionally comfortable bus – and much to H’s delight, our reserved seats were at the very front. He plunked himself down with glee noting with this madcap traffic, that he would be right on top of all the action. Arrggggggh

I found it incredibly interesting to view the endless fields of carrots, rice, onions and multi etceteras all growing smack in the middle of multi tombs. Home gardens are within inches of the tombs with their landscaping travelling in snuggles all around the tombs. We had a short stop for lunch and as we had our own cheese and crackers – we thought we would purchase fruit and then stretch our legs. We picked out 2-small bananas each and went to pay for them. The staff were very upset with us - and it took quite a lengthy ‘discussion’ before we understood our very bad manners. For in Vietnam you buy the entire bunch of proffered bananas – and do not pull off single ones. Ooops. It was an uneventful trip to the border crossing, if you do not count all the numerous dare-do's and near collisions.

Our ticket from Hanoi through the border crossing and straight to Nanning, China cost $8.50 / person and included a bottle of water, plus a jar of fruit conjee. Our Vietnamese bus stuck to the speed limit which was between 40 to 80k for the entirety of the approximately 4-hour trip to the border crossing - at which time, everyone had to vacate the bus together with all luggage, being as the Vietnamese bus was not allowed to cross the border.

Now this sounds easy – just copy what everyone else is doing ? But most were not that vigorous about getting off the bus, and when off, they just milled about. I have to admit that at first I sat there in solid bewilderment as I had no idea that we were to all vacate the bus, much less take off any luggage or do whatever else. As Hanoi was excessively humid and warm and China was to be cold with even a good chance of snow, I had packed winter clothing and both of had stowed a larger bag. My eyes I am sure were conveying an expression of “What the hell do I do now ?! ”. No one spoke English – the bus driver and attendant spoke Vietnamese. Okay - I was in Vietnam and soon to be in China - Time to shift gears.

Across and down the highway I noticed an officious looking building, so we prepared to hike over but first gathered our bags at which a fellow handed me this card to string around my neck. Click Here The card later proved to be announcing that I had a paid seat in the connecting bus to Nanning – and I had to give it back, in order to get on the next bus. Darn – I wanted as a souvenir.

Finally entering the building, I found a squash of people all waiting for their Vietnamese EXIT Visas to be approved - and just as many - trying to hand over their Visas for ENTRY. Total mayhem. Too - I thought it sort of a gas … that we had to pay 3,000 Dong (25 Canadian cents) for the ‘privilege’ of walking the 100m to the first of the multi-check procedures for permission to enter China. We had to literally elbow our way through this dense jostling crowd in order to reach the varying wickets - where we were to receive – hopefully – varying approval stamps. The process was lengthy and a tad confusing. Finally we were approved and we moved on, trying to figure out what we were to do next – and on seeing people, with papers dangling from their fingers, and lining up at another area, we walked over and searched about for blank papers but none were in English or anything else that we understood. We were most appreciative when an official appeared producing the form required. There were no signs as what to do, when or where. No one smiles here. This process took about 1-hour and I was becoming very concerned that I would miss the connecting bus. Once through this network, we were able to exit the building - and came across 4-motorized trolley type carts which we discovered were to deliver us to our next bus – and that we were to pay 5-Yuan per person - and were not permitted to walk to the bus.

For those that might follow in these footsteps, you may wish to know that at our time of visit, there were no ATMs nor money exchange booths within this complex – however, directly outside the complex on the Chinese side, there were a couple of enterprising young ladies providing ambulatory money exchange services to whom we sold enough Dong for the shuttle ride and for the taxi, from the Nanning bus station to our hostel.

Now this bus was on the luxurious side – having foot rests, a holder for a bottle and well padded seats which tilted back a suitable distance. A young woman wearing a uniform of tailored suit in a pretty fuchsia colour was the bus attendant and she supplied us with another bottle of water. H stuffed our bags into cargo while I hastily got on board to see if I could nab 2-seats together. Our new bus was not labelled ‘Nanning’ and both driver and attendant, spoke only Chinese. As per our entire trip, we were the only non Asians.

Our speed limit went up to 120k – the highways were now impressive – surprisingly so - of course I have no idea, what the substructure consisted of, but whatever was visible above, was well thought out, especially the erosion control and stabilization with employment of the uniquely cut slopes. Very nice.

Before we left for our trip, we had been advised that Bank of China accepted western cards – so at least we knew that – but on arriving at the Nanning bus station, we searched about for a bank or ATM – and could find none. At the bus information centre – a staff member literally threw a small book at us - I presume it was for translation purposes ? I had been foolish enough to think that as Nanning was so large, we could find someone …. And blah blah blah. That wasn’t a good thought. Thus I changed tactics, and put my hand up asking the 3 of them to wait a minute while I quickly dug out an ATM card from my wallet and pretended – with exaggerated gesticulation - that I was getting money from an ATM machine – and that I received lots of money. I was flapping Dong - but it was money - and that cinched the translation. The answer was “no ATM”. So we hiked outside to locate a taxi.

I had our reserved hostel and address written in English, that also had a tiny bit of Chinese character – I hadn’t thought to get it translated into Mandarin. Even so there are varying dialects, I was advised that Mandarin is spoken by most in this area. Thus, our getting the driver to comprehend the address was a bit of a hassle. We ended up with quite a few people gathered around to see what these foreigners were about - and I finally decided it was best I again have a go at using a different communication method. So I pointed to the address on the paper, showing it to them; next put my hands beside my ear, palms together, tipped my head, closed my eyes and pretended I was snoring; next I again pointed to the map where the train station was located; then imitated the sounds of a train (chooo chooo – woo wooooo – and moving my bent arms and fists up and down I chugged to this beat - and ended all with a long and loud screeeeeech - -. I thought for a sec that H was going to shove me out of the way, when all of a sudden a few of the fellows standing about burst into loud guffaws and clapped – next engaged in conversation together – and next advised as best they could with an up and down movement of their heads and pointing to one taxi, that they knew what I wanted - - so we piled in our bags and off we went. Phew !

Here in Nanning, there were no endless motorbikes swerving around / in front of cars, buses and pedestrians. Nanning proved to be in some areas, a very modern looking city Buildings with wide streets and spacious sidewalks. Extensive new construction – beautiful architecture - beautiful landscaping – many separate and wide walkways heavily laced with trees and shrubbery, all running parallel to the main 3-4 laned road. There was space for 4-wheeled vehicles – another for bikes – another for those on foot – all in separate areas. All in all, it was certainly not the semi-grungee city in a provincial hinterland, that we had expected.

When at home, we had reserved at the Nanning Hengchuan Hotel using Hostelworld.com. Even so a block from the train station, I want other travellers to know that there was a huge walk about long before any train traffic started and this blocked off all sound.

On arriving we discovered that the hotel (we had thought it was a hostel) required a security deposit of 300 Yuan - about $36 - which was more than we had obtained from the exchange ladies at the border. We could use credit card but preferred using cash – and would certainly need cash for dinner and other activities coming up, so decided that I would stay with our bags in the foyer, while H went off to hire a taxi and find a Bank of China. As we were discussing how we would go about this – someone obviously became aware of what we were about, for a bell hop suddenly appeared – yes bell hop complete with dapper cap and fancy uniform with epaulets no less – and it was conveyed to us with hand signals that this young man would guide H to an appropriate bank. About 20 minutes later, the two returned and H had enough cash – and bell hop pleased with a good tip. We were very fortunate with this help, and especially as the young man did not speak a word of English. Even so a huge city, we should not have assumed there would be money changers or ATMs at the bus depot. I will NOT do that again. Come to think of it, I think I just assumed and didn’t check beforehand.

Knowledge of English appeared practically non-existent and communication was difficult. However, I knew that handing over passports was mandatory and as I was in another country, much less communist – re government rigidity, surveillance and what not - I thought best to make extra effort to comprehend and follow requests as best I could. It turned out that all staff were more than determined to be helpful – and we all gathered our patience together and in truth, H and I had a more than excellent stay.

In H’s trying to find an appropriate bank, I thought I’d watch reception as all 3 fiddled with my passport. First they tried to photocopy it, but it appeared the data was not legible enough, for they next resorted to recording – the data important to them from my entire passport – page by page – and by hand. Unfortunately as my Passport was three quarters full, they had quite a project ahead of themselves.

I had expected to be staying in an ‘econo’ section of this complex and was so surprised to find that our room was exceptionally nice and the shower the best we had experienced on our trip – a full zap all around in an enclosed area. A very nice treat. I plunked myself down on the very comfy bed and discovered on the night table, an intricate console from which I could control the lights, television and radio. And right next to that – stood a very clear sign in English and other languages, noting the AIDS pandemic – what to do and not – and offered a telephone number. I was very surprised at this for when at home, had noted in the media that China was doing “nothing” about encouraging awareness … and obviously this was not correct. The cost for our room was $14.50 per bed (including breakfast) which was absolutely ridiculous as it was an exceptionally nice accommodation and we were looked after at every turn.

That evening before dinner, we had a giggle when walking the Nanning Street, for H thought he would like to find an internet café to get caught up on E-Mail. We walked by a building and noticed that it was FULL of people and monitors. Wooo – great excitement - - only to walk in and realize it was a bingo hall. LOL

I was surprised to have ourselves endlessly stared at in this part of China – even on the bus coming here. Mind you, we both have fair hair – and I am 64 and H 73 - so perhaps that made the difference ? Not sure at all. The street cleaners literally jolted as we walked by – and they stopped their work and stared. I caught so many staring at us – open mouthed – and others quickly turning away when I looked in their direction. I could only respond with the warmest of smiles. Perhaps this was a holiday time and many were visiting from the country ? And I often came upon little ones who would hide behind their adult companion’s legs and peer out at me – some with an expression of fear and others in disbelief. This I experienced even from adults when hiking about at the top of the Andes but all came as a surprise to me here in Nanning. I have included a cute pic (at least to me - as it has good memories) of a little one, who a minute previous to this pic, I had seen most cheerfully hippity hoppiting in carefree abandon along the sidewalk. I was instantly enamoured of her carefree delight and the determined care of the adult following close by – so I waved my camera at him gesticulating in query if he would permit my taking a picture. He was delighted but the little one was very cautious about this… and he had to encourage her to come up front from hiding behind his legs no less – thus the exceedingly dubious expression on her small face.
Smile Sweetheart

In the evening, we walked the street to find a restaurant for dinner. Was hard to choose as the print of course was in Chinese characters and we found only one place in this vicinity, offering pictures of entrées, which didn’t appeal – however, one block does not contain the entirety of Nanning so we thought to check further about. And next thought to look for those that showed pictures of their dishes. This turned out to quite a turn off as I found myself perusing various bits and pieces of animal parts – toes, ears and so on. Okay - I needed to shift gears – again - and on thinking to start over, a young girl came out of a restaurant, and avidly encouraged us to enter. With her bursting enthusiasm to have us eat there, we decided to have a go.

In truth, I wasn’t too keen on eating anything at all, as I was having trouble with my stomach and facing a long day of travel …. however, I decided to grit my teeth and just go for it, as would probably be an experience I wouldn’t get too often in my life.

We were seated at a table of which the covering was the consistency of a dry cleaner’s thin fly protector and I kept tangling my knees in the stuff. Thus, I couldn’t have run out, even if I had wanted to. She produced tea – at which I expressed my delight and she next produced a carté that also had writing in English – well, a good stab at English that is – but I certainly appreciated this ! She was quite dancing in her excitement and hovered around us – actually placed her head right next to mine - - literally ear to ear - - and I didn’t know what was expected ! I think she thought we could make an instant decision with this menu as it was in English. But I was taking a few moments too long for her - as there was much to peruse - and also my reading of all types of exotic foods – such as stuffed eel and unmentionable boiled parts of pigs – and etcetera – was not encouraging. I am the type that it is best you put it on my plate – you don’t tell me what it is – and I’ll have a go. For me, this is a quicker method of eating, than trying to get my mind about it. I can do that later.

Our young hostess gave up waiting for our decision – and grasped me by the arm, insisting I get out of my chair – and led me into a separate area in which were stored various sections of dead critters – I just couldn’t get my brain around the idea of finding this appetizing, although I realized her bothering, was a sincere compliment – either that, or she thought we were totally daft and were desperate for help – frankly I think the latter is more correct. I found I was still at …. ERRRRK …. What do I order mode ?!

As I said, I didn’t think it was a good idea to be adventurous today with food, so I ordered “steamed pork chop”. Yes – that was a good choice I said to myself. This did turn out to be a very tasty effort but eating was an arduous experience and took a long long time. This was because it was bits and pieces of pork - full of splinters and chopped bone – as the thing was quite chopped willy nilly – chop chop chop chop – and next steamed – and – plunked on my plate.

On top of that I can experience trouble gripping things with my 2nd and 3rd fingers being distorted with arthritis. It was cool that evening, thus my arthritis was saying hello – so using chopsticks was out of the question and I made do using the soup spoon. Our young lady could hardly contain herself - and midst giggles and next backing up and trying to contain herself – and with the matriarch of the establishment staring on in disbelief - she made it clear that I was to use the darned chopsticks – and to do it this way – as she grabbed them and instructed me on the use. I finally brought forward my right hand – spread out my fingers – and pretended my left hand was a scissor and visibly ‘cut off’ my right fingers. At this she offered verbal compassion and left me to my struggles. About 2 min later, she just couldn’t contain herself - and picking up my chopsticks, proceeded to feed me ! I am sitting her choking in laughter in remembering this. And yes - I also am humbled at the care she expressed for me.

H’s dinner was roast duck in a delicious lemon sauce and undetermined vegetables – and all very tasty. However, the how to eat it – for him also was a total challenge – as little and not so little splinters of bones were embedded in every piece of meat - making the eating quite an experience.

I also chose juice which turned out to be sugared pop. But H’s beer was very light and good tasting. Afterward, we walked the street afterward and I purchased 3 lovely fat golden oranges, to take back to the hostel with me – one for dessert and one each for our next day of travel. On quick decision I noted some Christie’s biscuits on the back shelf – I had never eaten them before but these showed a cheese filling and I thought they could easily tide us over in our travels. They proved an excellent purchase, and we ended up regularly purchasing when in China, to stuff in our pack for emergencies.

I also noticed, that on other tables, the patrons spat out the bones directly onto a side plate or, onto the table. For there was a mass of gristle and bone bits piling up on the ‘tablecloth’.

The young woman refused to accept a tip from us for dinner - we had three tries at this, but it was emphatically shoved back. Mind you they had made an error in their bill – writing it as 62 and then apologizing saying it should be 50. But our dinners each were 25 Yuan and we had consumed a beer and juice and been looked after in the extreme. I think they were so bemused by the story they would be able to tell others about there two westerners, that they forgot the bill and thought we were paying too much.

Mind you with the taxi drivers we hired to get to our hostel and again back to the train station – each one handed back the extra money we had added as tip. At which we tried to explain it was for them and they understood and accepted it.

Continued ....

Thanks for the delightful report. I was in Nanning about four years ago; ate at a wonderful restaurant that had 'stations' from which I could point and choose. Lots of people making noodles by 'throwing' them about, stretching them.

Some years ago I backpacked through China clutching my LP, and pointing to the Chinese characters for any place we wanted to go. It worked well except that only some Chinese actually read the language. Most often, I asked middle-aged women, who clearly took pity on me, and rushed around until they found someone who could read Mandarin.

Lor - the 'throwing' the noddles about had me quite boggled eyed .... was really interesting ... you made me smile in remembering.

seagal2 - unfortunately I read too many reports of LPs at Vietnamese/Chinese border crossings, being confiscated by the Chinese, so I decided not to purchase and next lose it. Regulars such as Ruth confirmed this happening - so I brought my own notes and stuffed them at the bottom of my bag inside something else. Mind you - China has been galloping in making changes so by 2008, perhaps this may change.

A former colleague in Hangzhou and I were just chatting yesterday, and laughing at the different ways of Chinese to Canadian eating styles. We both had to correct ourselves when returning to Canada, and not spit the bones out on the table, we got funny looks when back home when we just dipped our chopsticks into the middle of the dish, none of this putting portions into a bowl, or even a plate, etc!

I found that my "cheat sheet" from HZ did'nt work in Nanning and the south, and I ended up with some pretty wierd dishes in Nanning and Beihei just south of there. I even tried pointing to someone's order in some obscure place, and ending up with some types of offal. Can't say that I was that enamoured with Nanning but Beihei was a definite sleeper, as was the ferry from there to Haikou on Hainan.

"...next put my hands beside my ear, palms together, tipped my head, closed my eyes and pretended I was snoring".
That made me smile. That's what I did a few times as well. Generally, it takes a lot of gesticulation to make yourself understood in China.
Another thing I used to resort to regularily, was drawing a chicken, a fish, or a pig, depending on what I wanted to eat.
Spitting out bones on the table, or under it, seemed to be accepted table manners everywhere. Spitting in general, in public, that's another story.

As for tipping - that doesn't work in China. Giving more money than it costs is humiliating to a Chinese.

Very interesting, I do hope you will continue with more. I was wondering if I would manage to travel through China on my own without any lanquage knowledge but after your account I will give it a go, I am an experienced traveller and your age, so I am looking forward to it after i visit the child I sponsor in Vietnam near Hanoi

So good to hear about the tipping too. I wonder if I took some small australian toy koalas (probably made in China by the way ) whether that would be accepted?

don't worry about tipping walzingmatilda...you can if you want & you won't humiliate anybody