| Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020 | |
INDIA - PART SIX – Ranthambore Tiger ReserveInterest forums / Older Travellers | ||
When in Ranakpur we drove by this fellow who spends his days sitting on an improvised chair circling behind the oxen, which drive the waterwheel for irrigation. We next headed to visit Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, and to stay at Farm Villa, located just outside the reserve. It was a treat to be served breakfast in their sunny gardens with lots of birds about. The food was good and our accommodation was very comfortable: We had booked a tiger safari with the government before we left home, and were to be ready for pickup at 6:30 the following morning. It was bitterly cold that morning reminding me that Delhi was experiencing their coldest winter in 44 years. I could well have done with a toque and gloves. Our transport arrived very late at 7:15. We were provided with a rug but unfortunately this did little to keep out the cold. Mainly as I felt frozen to the bone before we even started as we had to stand outside for so long. Understandably the road was not paved – a veritable pot hole alley but what would one expect. The passengers sat 2 on one side and 2 on the other, and those sitting on the inside were constantly being thrown about. I sat on the inside and my booted foot far too often, in search for purchase, ended up stomping on the foot of the fellow sitting across from me – or he would do the same. Either that or I was thrown into his lap as the ‘causeway’ was very narrow. You see, the backs of the seats were not hanging onto’ able :) Hubby hung on to the outside metal piping of the vehicle ending up with bruises from being banged about. This info I provided for those planning to visit and don’t know which vehicle to rent. Of course, the time of year makes a big difference too. As we entered the first zone, numerous enterprising fellows appeared offering fleece gloves for sale – at an exorbitant price mind you. I bought a pair that’s for sure and so did others. It was 5 ½ hours before we were returned to the Farm Villa. By that time, I was nearly crossed eyed with need to go pee and I stormed past the fellow waiting to greet us. We didn’t see any tigers. We knew we had little chance, however the beauty of the area and the possibilities interested us. Mind you some travelling with us were quite over the moon excitedly showing us the pics they had been fortunate to get the day before - 2 tigers ! Lucky them. I won’t go into the rest of everyone’s discomfort but will say that the area is very lovely and we definitely saw and got close to some splendid animals. I had never seen a mongoose before: This Crested Serpent Eagle was a beauty: These little guys were sitting on absolutely anything as we drove through the reserve entrance gate. We were advised to tie down everything as they were tops at pilfering. In the afternoon and sitting in the gardens back at the Farm Villa, I was very comfortable wearing just a T-shirt and shorts. Vast changes in temperature here during the day. The next morning we were served breakfast on the lawn, the sun was shining and it was a beautiful day. We decided to walk into the surrounding fields – mooch about and see what was up. We walked by a smiling sheep herder And walked by camels dozing in the sun: And we met up with some children skirmishing in a ditch. Up to no good I think as once they saw us, the action immediately stopped - two pulled their shirts back on and then all stood to greet us with smiles. And then maybe they realized we were visitors and they should present themselves accordingly ? Hah LOL We found our way to the outskirts of Sawai Madopur and decided to investigate. A pic of hubby walking down the main street. Note the plastic bag he is holding with both hands behind his back – this is important for later on. For some reason the people appeared startled to see us meandering through this area and were the same in our desire to shop in their stores. At the two different shops where we purchased, each was managed by a woman and both produced a grin from ear to ear. Two men each at a different time and from different areas, rushed out from buildings insisting they shake my hand - not hubby’s – and then promptly left. Now what was that about ? Unfortunately we didn’t know most of what anyone was saying – but we all felt that we were welcoming each other and that sufficed. Often the children would chorus at us from rooftops "Hellooooo - where are you from ?!". I would delightedly reply, "Helloooo India. I am from Canada!"..... at which they at first appeared to be in shock – there was dead silence – and next wild shrieks of pleasure were produced in realization that I had understood them. Hubby is gluten sensitive so food sometimes is a conundrum when travelling – thus we purchased a stash of chocolate candies and chocolate bars with nuts. The fellow managing the store couldn’t believe that we wanted the entire container of candies, from which he normally pulled perhaps 6 per day. After a bit of hand flapping we struck a deal – plopped all in a large plastic bag – and trotted off to spend more time checking out the town. By about 2 pm we were baking in the heat – chocolate was melting - so we headed back through the fields returning to the Farm Villa. This fellow came pedalling after us – he wanted to introduce himself and his daughter and announced that he was celebrating his young daughter’s first birthday today ! What a delight ! Walking into the fields, I heard chattering behind us but thought nothing of it as we were on a well worn path. However the chattering increased in strength and I heard the word “chocolate”. Turning around I discovered we were being trailed by 8 children with all eyes glued to the transparent plastic bag stuffed full of chocolate and candies – which hubby had been holding with both hands behind his back. (noted in pic above) It was the funniest sight to see this rag tag group staring so fixedly – you’d think we were waving 1M rupees about. Naturally we shared. Not the entire bag mind you – not that generous :) By the time I got my brain in gear to take a picture, an adult had arrived to see what was going on and the action had slowed down. In this pic 2 girls appear as chipmunks with their cheeks stuffed with chocolate - one is wearing brown and the other behind her in pink. Returning through the fields we actually got lost. Embarrassing ! We didn’t speak one word of this man’s language but after our trying to convey our problem to him, he figured out that we were lost. Well to be honest, we must have appeared very lost before we even opened our mouths as we certainly didn’t belong where we were, appearing as we did. This fellow hauled us back to the Villa. Here they fancy up their camels by tattooing them – I do hope they mean by using henna. One fellow pointed out to me that some camels wore ‘bracelets’ on each leg made of bells, which gave off music when they walked through the day. And many were brightly decorated with coloured tassels about their ears and nostrils. Such kindness and humour in this man. Thank you again whoever you are ! There was a tiny shop at the Farm Villa selling jewellery, shoes, etc. at excellent prices. I was startled to see an exquisite camel hair shawl – natural colours, good quality and in an ancient pattern. I asked him the price and on his response I was sure he had misunderstood me. I discovered that it was off season and tourism was down. Yes, he knew this was a classic pattern and high quality - but the few tourists were coming through, wanted newer designs - and that shawl wasn't selling. He needed to feed his family. So I nabbed it and another 2 for friends – one of which I raffled off for a needy cause once home. They are just gorgeous. We next left for Fatehpur Sikri and about ½ an hour down the highway we were now driving past many crab apple orchards and of course people selling them next to the highway. Crab apples where I live are perhaps 1.5” in diameter and rather bitter in taste - but here they were large as a med sized apple, juicy and tasty. Often we would drive past concrete barriers perhaps 1 metre high on the side of the road - people perched on top – perhaps waiting for specific transport – all wearing their colourful clothing both male and female. They reminded me of a group of brightly coloured birds huddled together enjoying the camaraderie. Passed through so many tiny towns and villages – always so interesting: We drove past numerous vehicle accidents usually consisting of one humongous sized truck and a small sized car. Too often even with a concrete medium between opposite lanes, our driver would go to pass the car in front only to meet up with a huge transport truck driving straight at us, of course on the wrong side of the road ! We drove by large poppy fields – white in colour. They are well guarded and cannot be grown unless approval received from the government re their medicinal effects. Dinesh explained that long haul truck drivers are known to take this poppy to keep them awake – unfortunately causing a lot of traffic accidents. Travelling down the highway we noticed thick black smoke far up ahead and shortly met up with a thick bash of cars parked 4 across in this small 2 lane highway. Our driver was astute enough to not pull right up with the others – he got out to ask what was going on – quickly jumped back in and manoeuvred the car (tight that was – I couldn’t look !) so we could quickly return back down the highway. Apparently a transport had overturned onto a passing car and no one was going anywhere for a very long time. We ended up following another tourist driver with another following us, with the first fellow advising there was a back road. Road ?! Well there often is a back road and not just one access – wherever you are – but this was not one designed for a car – not even a 4-wheel drive. Actually we were excessively fortunate that we had a small car or we would never had made it. For the back ‘road’ proved to be a path pounded into shape from eons of use by camel and cart. On top of that, eons of monsoons had cut this path even deeper into the ground - and oh my, that was an experience getting through. First off I was extremely concerned that we would get stuck – fall into one of the gigantic pot holes or gullies. Next we found we were driving by thick walls of dried mud that were at approx 2/3 metre higher than our car. And so narrow, there was absolutely no way we could open the door even one inch, even if we did get stuck. The how we would get out – ah forget it – they would find some way for sure, but I didn’t want to experience that right then thank you, much less think about it. I took a quick picture of these women. I am assuming they belonged to a sect of either the Hindu or Muslim faith as both wore purdah. It was frying hot outside and I wondered how they could see where they are going ?! I was always warmly welcomed. Momma and me: When we were finally out of that back road adventure and travelling through secluded villages . . . even so still trying to get back to the highway, it was another fantastic experience. Continued. . . . Part 7 of 9 | ||
What a fantastic trip report. Great pictures as well. Keep 'em coming. | 1 | |