Churchill: 2

we caught the train the next evening, after spending the day in Thompson. There was a conference on re using traditional foods and using traditional methods to preserve them, and they were also teaching more modern canning methods. I was told there was a demonstration up at the zoo of traditional smoking techniques. It was quite a walk, but I made it, and got to taste smoked white fish and cariboo.

Then it was time to catch the train... it was late, but the train is always late, so that wasn't anything new. we had berths... i had the lower, K. had the upper, as i am claustrophobic..... we didn't know that dinner was included in our berth price, so that was a nice surprise... turns out the peasants in the coach class couldn't use the dome car or lounge car or have any of the nice free goodies...fruit and stuff... that was put out for us....

I crawled into bed, which was very comfy, and we rocked and rolled for about fifteen hours to Churchill. I slept sporadically. The rail to Churchill goes over tundra, which at this time of year is still not very stable, shifting and moving the rails... so the train sometimes literally inches along. During the summer, when the ground is even more spongy, the train has often been a day late, and sometimes dosen't make it to Churchill at all. In the winter, when it freezes over, it is firmer and more navigable. Morning came, a good breakfast, and then i spent time in the dome car. Trees disappeared, and the landscape was rocky and spongy looking. there are strips of boreal forest... rather stunted looking trees, and lots and lots of water. Big and small lakes all over. We finally arrived in Churchill only four hours late.

We got a cab to the Blue SKy B&B... it was on the edge of town, and a lovely place, warmed by a wood stove and the smell of something wonderful baking. We were welcomed by 'grandma'... or Jolene.... i couldn't call her grandma.. she is the same age as me!! she is the mother of Jenifor, who with her partner Gerald, own the five room bed and breakfast. She comes up from Calgary every year with her husband to run the place because Jen and Gerald run the dog sledding business AND both hold full time jobs as well. Jen is an x-ray tech, and he is a mechanic at the airport.

Gerald is a Métis, a descendent of early French voyageurs and their 'land wives'. The metis have been around for a long time and have their own distinct culture from the First Nations peoples in Churchill, (mostly Cree and some Inuit). Jen came up to churchill to do a residency for her xray tech courses, went on a dog sled ride, met Gerald, fell in love with the dogs and the musher, and never went back! They are wonderful, friendly people with energy to burn.

We were signed up for two tundra buggy trips...one on Saturday, and one on Monday. We arrived late on a Thursday so on Friday after an amazing breakfast, i went out to the dog yards for a tour. A few words about breakfast. Jolene grinds her own flour from hi grade Manitoba wheat. She then makes five or six loaves a day for the guests. That morning we had French Toast, served with tundra berry jam, fresh fruit salad, sausages or had cut bacon, and tons of coffee. Other mornings it was the most amazing pancakes, or traditional bacon and eggs and fresh hash brown potatoes. Of course you can just have cereal and toast.... but no one does!!!

K. didn't want to get up for 9 am, so she went at four o'clock. The dog yard was one of the unexpected hight lights of the trip!

There was no snow yet in Churchill, so they have rigged up a wagon thinggy that seats about seven people. And while the ride was fun, meeting the dogs was even more fun. There are three teams up there. Jen's, Gerald's and his partner Dave's. Jen introduced us to her dogs, complete with some great stories. Most of their dogs are sort of mixed breed huskies, and most of them are 'rescue' dogs... either from down south, or from towns or reserves up north. One bunch was rescued nearly dead from starvations from up north. Their owner had died, and no one could or would take them on, so they arranged to bring them to Churchill. The dogs live in their individual box like dog houses, and are attached with a longish chain. They like to sit on top of their houses - or eat them. Some of the dog houses are all chewd up!! They are a happy and friendly bunch. We met OddJob... a Greyhound, would you believe!! Jen rescued him from down south. he is sometimes her lead dog. He is a bit of a weirdo. When he was racing in Greyhound races, he would race 14 miles... now he races 17 miles and STOPS> Jen can only race him in shorter races. He has developed a heavier coat, and he gets extra straw in his house during the winter to keep him warm...

Then there is Isabel, Gerald's favorite lead dog. After running her one day, he realized something was wrong. so he flew her to a vet in wpg... there is no vet up in Churchill. She had torn retinas in both eyes and was blind. They took her to a vet specialist in Saskatoon, but there was nothing they could do. People told him to shoot her, but he couldn't. They tried to retire her to their home, but she was unhappy without the other dogs, so they took her back to the dog yard...but she was still unhappy... she wanted to run... so they tried her out with the team and she was ecstatic!! sometimes she runs tandem lead dog!

Then Dave took over, and talked about his dogs, and all about how they are trained.... how initially he has to wrestle the dog down, and often gently bite their ear so that they know he is boss. He was really fun to listen to and very interesting. He showed us how they tied up the harnesses etc, and then the rides started... and while we waited our turn, hot chocolate and delicious bannock was served out of this wood stove heated sort of tent structure. As he chose the dogs to harness up, they all started howling and getting excited, shouting 'PICK ME! PICK ME!!! They love to run!

I spent the rest of the day wandering around town...

.... this is all for now, as my time is running out at the library... more to follow

elain

Hey Elain,

Good to hear from you and how the trip is going. Thanks for the report. I am currently in Wpg myself (born and raised here, however, ever so grateful to be living in Victoria :-)) ), but never been north of Hecla Island. Now I am hearing how much I am missing!! Looking forward to hearing about the rest of the journey.

Gail

An interesting trip that you are having Elain. We hope you get some good polar bear sightings, but don't think you should feed them.

Love the bits about the food! I'm hungry now.

Fantastic----Churchhill is going on my high priority list!

one word of warning Lor... while we met many people who came up at the last minute, and managed to find a place to stay, it is wiser to book as far in advance as possible. we would have preferred to go up in November, when there was a better chance of snow. We booked last Feb. and this was the best we could manage. I would definitely recommend the Blue Sky B&B.....or fondly called 'the bed and sled' place...