Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Report on an incredible 2-week trip through Syria in late October -early No

Country forums / Middle East / Syria

We booked ahead at the Damascus Hostel but made no other advance reservations of any kind. As many others have already reported, the Damascus Hostel is an incredibly friendly albeit funky place in a great location in the old city. Raymond and his staff could not have been more helpful.
While there we pondered the best way to see Syria. Public transportation? Available and cheap but not so convenient for a trip with limited time.
Rent a car and self-drive? Much more freedom but it could be a case of the blind leading the blind with our group of four lacking any Arabic language skills.
Lastly, the most expensive choice but for four people not unreasonably so, we could hire a car and driver and have the freedom to be spontaneous. After discussing all our options among ourselves and with Abdul the guy in charge of arranging trips at the Damascus Hostel, we decided to go with the third option despite the modest increase in cost which in truth only came to about 100 euros a day for the four of us. The fact of the matter is that it was the way Abdul presented himself that convinced us to go with him. He immediately struck me as as knowledgeable, reliable and interested in providing us with the best possible travel experience. It didn’t hurt that he spoke excellent English and had a late model comfortable Chevy SUV.
We were so glad we went with our instincts because we had a fabulous, magical trip which included being invited to join a Debka dancing wedding party in Tartus , being serenaded on the streets of Aleppo by a young woman who sang Arabic music in the style of Oum Kalsoum, listening to the other worldly howling of foxes in the mountain village of Marmarita, feasting on cherry kabob, the local specialty of Aricha , and watching the appearance of a double rainbow as the “dead city” of Serjilla was bathed in a golden late afternoon light, were among just a few of the high points. Yes, of course, we also went to Krak, Palmyra, Mar Mousa, Maaloula, Musayef and a countless number of other castles and ruins. Abdul helped us find the best hotels in our price range and did the negotiating when necessary. He was indefatigable and without him we would have had a completely different and far less personal experience.
Regarding accommodations, we particularly liked the Dalall Hotel in the old city of Aleppo. It seemed like a terrific bang for the buck given it was $50 for a very nice and clean double including a great breakfast in an impeccable location. I would stay there again in an instant.
A note on food costs. Meals seemed to me higher than I expected in Damascus and Aleppo although the quality was generally very good. Count on 350-500 Syrian pounds for lunches and dinners. I’m sure if necessary you could find cheaper but we weren’t backpacking it this trip and… most importantly to me, we never got sick. If you would like more details on anything in particular, drop me a message. Too much to include here.
Happy travels.

Martin

Syria Photos

They're great pictures. Glad you had such a good time!

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Glad you had such a great time--great pictures as always. Somehow I saw that thumbnail with the graffiti and just knew it was from Arwad...

CK

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Excellent experience - and great recommendation for Damascus Hostel which
provides everything a person needs on his travels.

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Thanks soooo much Martin,sounds just wonderful,we are currently in Dahab,Egypt,omg sooooo amazing the Red Sea.we are heading to Syria next week so your info is terrific,kindest cheers,Carol.

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You really had a wonderful trip! Your pictures are excellent!

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