Recent advice: Iran & Pakistan, June July 2008?

Hi, currently in Istanbul and should be arriving in Tehran by train in a couple of weeks. We are esentially on foot, relying on buses as I hear cars are quite dodgy and we don't have bikes.

We would be very interested to hear from anyone who has recently crossed the Iran / Pakistan border
with regards to safety, but also any recomendations of places to stay and general experiences.

Also, anyone who may be near and would like to meet up for an apple tea or trade books!

Many thanks in advance, Emma and Bruce

I did the crossing from Iran to Pakistan in late September last year and I must admit that after many years of travelling alone in the wider central-asia middle east area, it was the first time I felt pressured. I took a bus from Kerman to Zahedan stayed there overnight planning to take a taxi or something to the border. But next morning it turned out that the hostlel's people would not let me leave their premisses unescorted, so I had to ride on a motorbike with a policeman and a young militiaman with an AK - three in a bike- to the borders. Up to there it was fun, and as I often travel to Iran I felt at ease. But the "discreet" presence of guns on the Iranian side, turned into public prominence once I crossed the shining iranian border post into the dusty run-down pakistani side. It is quite a shocking change in fact, two worlds apart in one step. Well then the ride to Queeta was also quite a challenge in two ways: first the presence of guns across the road, and second the phenomenal state of the road which felt like a mountainous strip across the Pamirs rather than an international highway. The road is battered to the extent that the bus often has to drive on the desert, and it is also very narrow, to the effect that two buses or lorries cannot fit at the same time in it. That given that it is a two way highway means that more often than not you will once agian be plunging into the desert to avoid bigger or more aggressive vehicles. The city of Queeta itself once reached was quite interesting in terms of local culture, but I for once did not feel comfortable at all, and soon moved east. Once out of Baluchistan I found Pakistan a very engaging and easy to travel country, so my honest advice given the worsening political situation on all sides and your apparently british citizenship (no offense) is that unless you relish in danger it would be better ro fly from tehran to lahore or islamabad after exploring iran. I trust this will save you a lot of psychological trouble, and maybe more.

best regards

Hi Emma and Bruce.

Very welcom to safe Iran and Kerman to the board of Pakestan,
Just found out about the LP Thorn Tree Forum. I am Hossein Vatani from Kerman, Iran. If you are interested in any of the following, please don't hesitate to contact me!

• Historical places around Kerman, Mahan, Bam, Maymand (Rock village) etc, as well as arranging excursions to other cities such as Esfahanm Shiraz, Yazd, etc.

• Cultural tours to mosques, bathhouses, teahouses, bazars & see traditional Iranian sport (zurkhaneh, see LP Iran page 45)

• Overnight desert trips to Dasht-e-Lut to see the kaluts (great natural sand castles), the possibility to meet nomads and stay with them in their tents.

• Ride on camels and horseback through the majestic desert of Kerman & sport tours for mountain climbing.

Furthermore, I can arrange almost everytthing, ranging from accomodation for all budgets, transport, help with extending your visa, etc. etc.

You can contact me via email or private message. Also, I am listed in the Lonely Planet of Iran on page 284.

Kind regards,

Hossein Vatani

Many thanks for your replıes, e & b