My hotel manager in Damascus recommended Al Khawali and Naranj. It wass during Ramadan and because of all those reservations for iftar meals (I suppose) I nevefr once managed to get into Al Khawali. Every time I came they asked me if I could come back after 10 or 11pm (no way, if you've been waiting all day since breakfast for a decent meal!). I tried Naranj and thought, it was very overrated. Expensive, the second floor's tables looked untidy and I was unimpressed with the food too.
Then I discovered Bait al Shams (the old city, not so far from Bab Touma in, across the big street from Naranj, into one little alleyway), with two huge alladeen-like coffee pots sitting on each side of the entrance. They had a beautiful coutryard, lemon trees, a live band playing Arabic music and the food was divine, and cost half of Naranj! I went back here every night I was in Damascus.
10
seftali
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Lonely Planet
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