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My wife and I, middle-aged but adventuresome and accustomed to driving in less developed places (Mexico, Turkey, Morocco, Greece),will be in Syria, traveling from Damascus to Hama to Aleppo to Palmyra, then on to Amman (we have to return the car in Damascus and take a taxi to Amman). We dislike the idea of a driver, but have been urged to get one. Any thoughts on the ability of non-Arabic speaking and reading Americans to drive ourselves?

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I haven't personally driven in Syria, but I'm planning to next time I visit, so that I can see some of the truly out-of-the-way places that I haven't seen yet. I don't think you'll find it too problematic overall.

Firstly, the good news. Most street/road/highway signs are written in both Arabic and English. Even if you do get lost, almost every local you'll encounter will be glad to help you and point you in the right direction. Most roads are also in pretty good condition - I've driven a little in Greece, and most of the roads I've seen in Syria were actually of a better standard than those in Greece. So no problems there...

OK, now on to the bad parts! The most important thing to be aware of is that Syrian driving standards are probably the most eccentric to be found anywhere in Europe or the Mediterranean, with the possible exception of Lebanon. However, if you were comfortable driving in Turkey, Morocco and Greece, you'll probably be fine, even though Syrian drivers are arguably worse. Just keep your cool, and drive passively but defensively, and all should be well. Like Italians, Syrians drive to some sort of incomprehensible uncodifed traffic code of their own making that would probably still be confusing even if you'd lived there for years...

If at all avoidable, you should never drive at night, particularly in rural areas. Not all drivers use their lights at night to start with, and you'll also often encounter children, tractors, carts, donkeys, livestock and occasional potholes on rural roads at night. None of which are particularly easy to spot in unlit areas.

Driving in large Syrian cities is an absolute nightmare, particularly at rush hour. Check out these pictures of Damascus and Aleppo, and you'll get an idea of what it's frequently like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dailydog/129004721/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmore/127376401/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/chimblysweep/402733350/<BR><BR>Also, parking in large cities is inadvisable. It's incredibly unlikely that your car will get stolen, but it's extremely likely that you'll drive around for hours on end trying to find a park, particularly if you're staying in or near the historic centres of Damascus or Aleppo.

Most locals largely ignore the traffic police, though as a foreigner, it's probably best that you pay full attention to them.

In summing, I'd alter your plans slightly. I've hired taxis and drivers loads in Syria before, and on the whole, they've been completely trustworthy and absolutely great fun to be around. You'll get to meet and interact with a local for a few hours - and the best thing about Syria is its people. Also, as noted, the cities are nightmarish to drive in. However, I understand that you probably want your own wheels so that you can do some exploring under your own steam. What I'd do, if I were you, is to only have the car for part of the trip (ie when you're going to be in the less hectic parts of Syria), and use public transport (or taxis) when travelling to/from/around Aleppo and Damascus. Your call, though...

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Having Driven around quite a lot of Syria I have to say most of it was an adventure and quite enjoyable.

I did find it harder to find my way around than Lebanon, especially once you get off the beaten track a bit as the signs may still be in English as well as Arabic but they get a lot smaller and harder to spot. Also in the country areas English speakers are harder to find, but most locals will immediately go and find the nearest one of they have to.

I got lost quite lot, but then as that didn't really bother me maybe I would not have quite so much if I really wanted to stay on track. I still ended up at my destination everytime, although I seemed to develop a knack for arrviving at Crusader Castles via the back way (this is NOT recomended at Crak!)

I found driving in the Country and the freeways very easy. The cities however I did not like at all and they annoyed me even more than Lebanon/Beirut. Most people here don't agree with me on that one but just the sheer number of taxi's and mini-buses swerving into and away from the sidewalk in Damascus/Latakia/Alepo or wherever really got on my nerves and it's not so bad in Beirut because there is just less of them. Of course Lebanese don't always stop at red lights so..........

We had a driver when we went to Egypt and thoroughly enjoyed that too. You hae someone with you who can show you places you might not have seen and introduce you to locals you may otherwise not have met.

If you really want to drive, in my opinion you can no problem. Why not do a bit of both?

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Having lived in hama before and now, being out in the rural areas, never dared drive what I have seen is that driving at night is pure insanity, when i go by car to damascus or anywhere at night it seems we drive in the middle of the road literally and when I asked why our friends told us that it is to avoid unexpected people, cars, animals and god knows what else on the road. This last trip up from damascus to hama at 12 midnight was my scariest ride ever, with our transport vehicle having run out of battery for his lights, we endured syrian style driving with no lights for several miles till finally the battery recharged and we had lights, I didnt think I would have any teeth left by the time we arrived in Hama, and I know I swallowed my heart more than once :P Be safe dont be afraid of getting a driver, I have found it to be the best way around

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If you have survived Morocco, Turkey and Athens, then you are on your way to become seasoned drivers in Syria. SPDL has explained it all. Another hint is to just keep a look out on the cars in front of you and on the sides! The Syrians like to push in and and it is no surprise to find them at speed going from extreme left to extreme right. You just have to re-adapt when you return home! and drive in your lanes like a good citizen!!

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Hi,
I'm Belgian living in Syria near Aleppo for 2 years now and although a very experienced driver in my own country, I will not drive here.
The information in the other answers is a very good description.
But, if you really want to, it is feasible. Just take into account that it will take up a lot of your energy.

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Christel, I am so glad someone else is completely and decided not to drive here, I keep thinking about it, then re-think and I am sorry no way, no how, unless Im out in the middle of no where :D And im in Hama where it is certainly less crowded than damascus and aleppo :D

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Whether you drive yourself or hire a driver (at least by the latter you are giving employment to someone, gaining local knowledge and putting that little bit of extra US$ into the economy) you will still be in traffic. No matter how well you drive or are driven you will be taking part in the lottery of the national traffic accident and casualty statistics as in every other country in the world.

Deaths per 100 000 population in Syria are are lower than in the USA.
Deaths per 10 000 registered vehicles are higher than the USA.

The argument could be that you are not "population" but you should be in a registerd car so the probability of death is higher than in the USA. However continue the use of statistics and if you hire a Syrian driver, thus including part of the population in your registered vehicle, that should improve the statistics in your favour.

Or to put it in the words of a great American:

“You've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do ya punk?”

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