Lebanon Questions -- Thanks!

1. Tyre. The ruins there are amazing - particularly al-Bass - and I found it to be a really chilled out and friendly place. Tripoli is very interesting as well, but I prefer Tyre by a long shot. Only problem with Tyre is the border 15km to the south...

2. Try and sort something out with an NGO or tour guide or something when you're there. You're unlikely to be able to get in to most of them easily - the majority have guarded entrances - and you could easily get yourself in trouble just trying to waltz into one by yourself. If you really must enter one, then make sure you do so with a local.

3a. Make sure you walk everywhere - it's a great way to see Beirut, especially given that almost everybody gets taxis everywere. It's great fun just exploring all the backstreets, particularly around Gemmayzeh, Achrafieh and Hamra. If you're into architecture at all, there are still plenty of absolute gems from the Ottoman and Mandate periods, as well as some fantastic modernist stuff from the 1950s-70s still standing in Beirut, but see them while you can! Tons of Beirut's old buildings have been torn down to make way for high-rises in recent years, and the trend hasn't stopped yet.

3b. Tawlet. One of the most fantastic restaurants I've ever been to anywhere, and it's too new to be in any guide books.

3c. Music Hall. Again, not in many guide books, but one of the most raucous (and slightly camp!) nights out you can have in Beirut, particularly on the weekend.

1. Beirutis are friendly, but they're nowhere near as friendly as Lebanese from smaller towns. Just try and get some accomodation in a minor town somewhere off the main tourist trail, even if it's just for a few nights. We stayed in Hasroun in the Qadisha valley for a while last time we were in Lebanon, and it was ace - we knew practically the whole town by the end of our stay. We just kept on getting invited into people's houses for chats, tea and food.

If you have to choose I agree with spdl, Tyre would be more interesting archeologically. Closeness to the border should not prevent you from visiting. But if you are into visiting refugee camps, Tripoli may be a better choice due to the easier access to the camps. In re Sabra and Shatila, I did not have any problem getting in and casually walking around by myself in June. However, having a guide, someone from a NGO, would be a better option, especially if you would like to interview people. Do not take photographs unless authorized beforehand.

Thank you both so much for such detailed answers! These are very helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to write. Let me digest these responses and add any follow-up questions shortly.

In the meantime, if anyone else has some input, feel free to add. Thanks again!

I visited Sabra and Shatila in September, turned up unannounced in a taxi and it wasn't long before the car was stopped by a group of blokes wanting to know what I was doing there - taxi driver explained that I was making a film and wanted to do some filming in the camps. Much discussion ensued and I was brought to an office and questioned by some Fatah type, it was all very amicable and they agreed that I could film and sent a guy along with me to point out various things they wanted me to film - sanitation problems, cramped living conditions, dodgy electrics, pictures of martyrs etc. - and to make sure I didn't get into any trouble. I'd agree with others, it's probably best to turn up with a guide or some such, or at least someone who can explain why you're there.

I don't know if camps in Tripoli would be a better choice, I was warned against going to Beddawi - "if something happens you in there then there's nothing the Lebanese security forces can do to get you out" was something I heard quite a few times in Beirut when I told people I was going - but I felt perfectly safe there, although it may have had something to do with the fact I was accompanied by blokes with AK47s

Mrjosefk,

Thank you for this great information on Sabra and Shatila. I am happy to hear you were able to visit without too many problems. In your experience, is there any place in particular I may be able to find a guide, NGO type, or someone else to assist with my access?

Thank you again.

I can't really help you there I'm afraid, but I don't imagine it would be that difficult to find someone who would take you there - staying in Beirut I met three different groups of people that had gone to Sabra and Shatila, some just turned up there in taxis unannounced like I did, others went along with locals, and I met two guys who contacted someone through couchsurfing who took them along for the day. Ask at wherever you're staying, I imagine they could find you a guide or if you're staying at one of the cheap hostels around Charles Helou then you could most probably bump into people that have been, or are looking to go!

I will second Tyre, but then again I like ruins.

We stayed in Hasroun

I will second #1's mention of Hasroun, at the risk of helping to put it on the map. I spent some time there last year (did not stay). Bcharre is nice, but nearby Hasroun is relatively untouched.

Wow, thank you so much again to everyone. What an impressive community. Regarding the camps, I have emailed a particular NGO someone recommended via private message. If that does not work out, I will take the advice and look for a local guide once I arrive.

As for the remainder of the info, it's just fantastic! Now I face the new choice of either visiting Tyre or Hasroun -- what a great choice to make. Also, I will certainly stop at Tawlet and Music Hall.

Thanks again for the good recommendations and especially the Palestinian camp info. Let me know if anything else comes to mind.

Tawlet may not be in many guide books yet but there have been a billion travel articles on it in the press, including all the formulaic Beirut is Back articles (a trap I struggle not to fall into myself!). Recommended reading has to include this hilarious parody of such articles:
http://www.nowlebanon.com/BlogDetails.aspx?page=1&TID=762&FID=6

As for off the beaten track, I really recommend an afternoon at the horse races for a dose of culture that most will never see (no need to bet, the people watching is reason enough). For details check out this post:
http://www.gingerbeirut.com/free-for-women-and-foreigners/

And the hippodrome ties in really well to a brief stop at the National Museum where they explain how they poured concrete over the art to keep it safe during the civil war, or a wander round the magnificent Horsh Beirut (Pine Forest) which is closed to most people (they let people in on a totally discriminative discretionary basis) and hardly any Lebanese go there let alone tourists.

Enjoy!