I have watched innocent visitors arriving at the Wadi Rum visitors’ center, overwhelmed by the disconcerting sight of Bedouin shouting and fighting with their own cousins, for their newly arrived visitor's custom.
If you thought arriving by train at Old Delhi Railway Station at 6 a.m. and being overwhelmed by touts was a distressing and disturbing experience. Then these Zalabia tribe Bedouin, who appear to be on steroids and starving, for the visiting gringo’s custom, create a devastating and unsettling first impression.
Book your overnight trip beforehand, with backpackers in Wadi Musa, up the hill and past the Shahid roundabout on the left hand side. In my experience (two visits to Wadi Rum) it was far cheaper and smoother to book in advance. I have posted previously on this and can recommend both staying in Wadi Musa, as well as buying your lunch, 4 x 4 tour, overnight stay and breakfast as a package from Cleopetra Hotel - Petra - Wadi Musa.