I agree that the marble really hurts the eyes. SZ mosque is quite a sight - interesting to see just how flowery-kitsch they've made it inside. It's like big, fancy hotel lobbies used to be in that part of the world before Asian minimalism and Western blandness caught on. Kind of funny (in a nice way).
I think if anyone goes to the Gulf expecting 'Old Arabia', with Damascus-style souks and Jerusalem-style atmosphere, then they deserve all the (disappointment) they get... Personally I thought AUH was fascinating - it takes only the tiniest bit of independent spirit to access a bit of Bangladeshi and/or Pakistani life behind Hamdan Street, or hang out with the fishermen over by the port, or just dig a little into local life. Top recommendation for a one/two-day stopover, though, is to go to Al-Ain - walk in the oasis, get a flavour of the old days with the forts/palaces etc (and understand a bit more about the veneration of SZ while doing it), eat Indian to die for, get into the desert, hang out at the Green Mubazzarah (more local life) - etc etc etc. And that's not even talking about Liwa, which is a whole other world. I was only in AUH for 7 days or so - hip it ain't, but fascinating it certainly is. And although I went into the malls and the Emirates Palace, it was more for curiosity value than because I felt like there was nothing else to do. There's plenty more to do.
On that score Dubai sucks, IMHO! ;-)
