I was at Meydun e Enqelab, Tehran taking photos, while my shoes were being repaired when suddenly a young man appeared from the street, flashed an official-looking id card at me and declared that it was "mamnu" (forbidden) to take photos in the area!
When I asked him why, he said it was an order from the authorities.
I sensed that the man was one of the "defenders of the revolution" and suspicious of foreigners
(I once met a young IR woman like this man in a taxi who demanded to know what I was doing in IR. She was highly suspicious of me and asked a lot of questions)
Traveling on an overnight bus from the south of IR to Esfahan one night, I was made to alight by the police at a checkpoint near Yazd. I pretended to be asleep but the policeman checked the passenger manifest and came straight to my seat, "woke" me up and asked to see my passport!
A group of soldiers questioned me for a couple of minutes and then let me go. Fortunately, they were polite and respectful.
The lesson I learned from both these experiences, was not to take anything for granted in IR.
It is an Islamic country and strict laws apply.
Having said this, I am amazed to see many westerners (mostly "Couchsurfer" types);
come to IR; they hook up with young, westernized Iranians who take them to parties and ply them with alcohol and in some cases drugs. Off course this is illegal in IR but the IR hosts will always insist,
"Don't worry you are safe with us."
Yes, you are safe until something goes wrong.
Article: https://www.rt.com/news/344702-iran-students-lashed-party/
And when something does go wrong, your IR friends will be able to talk or bribe their way out of the situation; but you may not be that lucky.
An IR friend who hosted Couchsurfers at his home (this is technically illegal in IR but many people still do it and get away with it) got a shock of his life when the police called him and told him that they had detained his foreign guest for hanging out with a young IR Couchsurfer woman in the street. They wanted my friend to come to the police station and answer some questions! Needless to say my friend was petrified!
It may not be obvious but people are always watching foreigners in IR.
Do some thing illegal and all it takes is for a nosy neighbor or a jealous ex-boyfriend/girlfriend to inform the authorities.
I don't mean to alarm visitors to IR but its important to be careful and not get yourself into difficult situations:
1. As much as possible maintain a low profile in public places
2. Avoid political discussions about IR
3. Should something go wrong and you are questioned by the authorities, don't do say or do anything that will implicate your IR hosts. You may get deported but your hosts may end up in a very difficult situation.
IR is a great country and the people are kind and welcoming. Most tourists who come to IR and do
their best to follow the rules, have a great time and leave IR with pleasant memories.
Enjoy your visit!
