Hi I managed to get into the holy shrine and am white with auburn hair, really stooding out in Iran. If you are a woman then you have to wear a chador. I covered my hair entirely and managed to go and see all the sights in the Holy Shrine complex. If asked if i was a muslim I was advised to say that I was from Bosnia as there are many Muslims who are white. My advice is to get rid of our bags before you enter that way you wont be stopped and asked questions and ushered to the International desk where you will be issued with a guide. Many of the thing around the site are all in Farsi.
I hope this is hepful and i would say that i agree with Hassan_Iran1 a lot of it is about your demena mannerisms and gestures. A piece of advice is to no go here as a first stop on your trip if u are not muslim so u can see how muslims act in a shrine environment, so u dont stand out like a sore thumb. Also as well if you want to get into the Shrine try to go in as small number as possible (you standout less).
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