Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Visiting Naples and Amalfi Coast this summer

Country forums / Western Europe / Italy

Hello, we are a family of 4 (with 2 teens), visiting Naples and the Amalfi Coast at the end of July. We want to spend 2 nights in Naples, so we can spend a full day visiting the city, then 3 or 4 nights near or in Sorrento to visit the Amalfi Coast, Pompei, and possibly Capri. We need help and suggestions on which area to stay in Naples if we stay only 2 nights, knowing that we would arrive by train and may be leave by ferry or train to Sorrento? We would also appreciate similar suggestions for where to stay in the Amalfi Coast. This is our first trip to Italy… Thanks in advance for any advice!

I guess you would look at the kilometre west / southwest of Napoli Centrale railway station ... which also puts you close to the ferry terminal precinct. We actually walked one day from the cruise terminal to the station - I wouldn't do it again, but it wasn't that far.

Apart from the archaeological museum, stroll the length of Via Toledo ... it's great.

We were fairly underwhelmed by Sorrento, and quite a few people say that.

You might consider Amalfi, and travel to there by ferry from Salerno, and from there by ferry to Sorrento / Capri. Another option is Positano, reached by ferry also. The bonus is the ferry trip both east and west - great way to see the Amalfi Coast.

This site is good for transport options: https://www.rome2rio.com/map/Sorrento/Amalfi-Italy

To save virtually a day, I would visit Pompeii either on the way from or two Naples (stopping at Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri) - where there should be left-luggage facilities.

Wherever you decide to stay, you need to be booking now ... it is very busy in July.

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You can take a taxi from the station, and to the port, so for a short stay it doesn't much matter. Maybe stay somewhere close to the main sites you want to visit, to minimise walking. Check hotel sites like booking.com for prices, hotel facilities, and reviews.

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First trip to Italy? Change your plans! Go elsewhere! In mid-summer you will find greater rewards and better value in other places.

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Sounds like it's part of a longer trip.

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Yes, it is apart of a longer trip... We will be arriving in Naples from Florence (after Milan and Venice), and we will be leaving the south to finish our long trip in Rome...

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Thank you for the response and suggestions! Could you please help me further with more details on the suggestion to save a day by visiting Pompei on my way from Naples, to somewhere near Sorrento or Amalfi (haven't decided yet)? It sound like a great idea. However, I am quite confused by the details of such an itinerary. My understanding is that I have to be very carful with chosing the right station-platform-tickets from in Naples, and it doesn't look like I can buy my train tickets online or in advance (which is worrying me because of the crowded lines as well). Also, there seem to be different entrances in Pompei, then I would have to make the same sort of verifications for my next train... As well, if I find a possibility to leave my lugguage, how much time should I plan in Pompei? Thanks in advance for much needed help!

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Okay - I can unpack some of that ... at least for the most part:

  • the station you need is Pompei Scavi - Villa Dei Misteri (it is literally a few metres from the main western entrance to the Pompeii site)
  • catch a Circumvesuviana Train at either Napoli Centrale, or better, Porto Nolana Station just before Centrale - less walking with luggage
  • buy a ticket to Pompei Scavi - Villa Dei Misteri (ticket office or machine)
  • validate (stamp) your ticket at the little machine on the platform
  • search Pompei Scavi - Villa Dei Misteri left-luggage for info on that
  • pre-purchase Pompeii tickets online - it saves time on the day
  • wear runners / track shoes, take a hat, water, and lunch!

Now after your visit, and you've looped your way back to the same entrance where you started, and collected your luggage:

  • if you're going to Sorrento, just buy a sectional ticket and jump on the next service run by Circumvesuviana to Sorrento*
  • if instead you're going to Salerno, catch the 5-minute bus to Stazione Pompei down the road, and from that station catch the next service (Trenitalia probably) to Salerno

All these steps are pretty straightforward when you're there ... they're used to dealing with very large numbers of travellers most of the year. The rail-ticket machines have English, and aren't hard.

Whatever you do, be very self-aware and secure, and do not be a victim of pickpockets. Trains crowded with tourists are prime territory for predators, although last year we were quite near a local woman who was robbed, and she screamed blue murder!

*If you just buy a Naples > Sorrento ticket, which might be a bit cheaper than two tickets, I think (without being certain) you're only given a couple of hours to complete the journey after you validate (stamp) the ticket in Naples

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This is awsome! Thank you so much! Would you have an idea of how much time I should plan for a decent visit in Pompei? I've read that it is not necessarily worth booking a tour and it is ok to simply rent an audioguide. I will also check (may be on tripadvisor) tofind out if I can buy only one ticket or if I have to buy 2 tickets to be able to stop in Pompei. Thanks again for your help.

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In terms of the train ticket - this straight from the top of a search:

To avoid the crowds, get the train at the start of the line at the Porta Nolana station on Corso Garibaldi.

  • Naples to Herculaneum: NA2 Ticket- €2.50 (valid for 120 minutes)
  • Naples to Pompei: NA3 Ticket – €3.20 (valid for 140 minutes)
  • Naples to Sorrento: NA5 Ticket – €4.50 (valid for 180 minutes)

So we're not talking about very much money here, whatever way you slice and dice it. By the way, if you pay a bit more, you can catch the tourist-oriented Campania Express from Naples ... might like it better.

In terms of a reasonably comprehensive stay, three hours for us was okay - although July crowds might make four more realistic. The good thing is that if you leave Naples (Porto Nolano) around 9:30 am, I'd say you'd have your feet up in your accommodation by 4:00 pm or so.

Perhaps a little later if you choose the ferry route to somewhere not Sorrento. But overall, a good use of a day.

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In terms of tours, guides, and audioguides ... we never use them ... mostly because of my short attention span and the huge amount of detail.

We took the map we were given, and asked the first ranger / attendant "We have two hours or so - what are the eight best things for us to see?", and she marked them on the map, and drew a line showing the way to walk between them. There's a fair bit of walking, and steps.

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This very helpful. Thank you very much! I will probably ask you an other question when I get a clearer idea on where to stay near the Amalfi coast after Naples, just to check eventually if there is a more appropriate route to get there from Pompei. Thanks again!

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No worries ... keep using that Rome2Rio website though ... not perfect but handy - especially if you always cross-check with Google Maps Directions.

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In Naples I usually try and stay in the Santa Lucia area between via Partenope and the port. Last time however (last September) I stayed between via Medina and via Toledo where there are a number of hotels in varying categories. The area is convenient for Toledo and Municipio metro stations, walking distance to the ferries and easy reach of cafes etc in the centre, though I do recommend an early evening stroll down via Partenope for an evening meal and joining the locals for a "passeggiata". You could easily spend more than one day in and around the city -eg visiting Vomero, Pozzuoli etc - and ferries to Capri, Ischia etc run much more frequently from Naples than from Sorrento. Do't underestimate what there is too and do using Naples as a base.

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You could easily spend more than one day in and around the city -eg visiting Vomero, Pozzuoli etc

Indeed.

We have really enjoyed our two brief visits to (central) Naples - it has a special cityscape and sense of space that is very appealling - and we have regretted not having longer, but that happens all the time.

I can't comment on whether it would be a good base for visiting Capri and Amalfi by ferry ... however the left side of my brain says no, at first glance!

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