Trip report- Den Haag, Amsterdam, Delft, eastern Holland

I visited Holland, Belgium and France last month to attend a friend’s wedding. I spent most of my time in Den Haag (the Hague), the Netherlands, but also visited Amsterdam, Delft, Brussels, and Paris. The parts of my trip that are relevant to the Thorn Tree community are below. Feel free to post with any comments or questions.

I ended up writing more than I planned and I began to doubt myself. I hope it’s helpful to someone. Anyway, I enjoy reading the Thorn Tree and I’ve gotten lots of good information on here. So I’m posting the Netherlands report here and maybe later Paris and Belgium.

The Netherlands in general:

Traveling around Holland is easy and comfortable. Public transportation goes everywhere and links make a lot of sense. For example, there is a train station below Schipol airport in Amsterdam and you can be on a train heading to your Holland destination half an hour to forty-five minutes after you plane lands. Buses and trams stop at or near train stations. If you’re going to be in Holland for more than a day, get the fifteen-strip strippenkart from a drugstore or bookshop and that will be a much better deal than buying it on the tram or bus. I think it was 6.80 euro for fifteen strips and 2.40 for a ride that took three strips when I bought it on the tram from the driver.

Oh, and on the trains, you may not have your ticket checked very often, but resist the temptation to ride without one. If you get caught, the fines are steep. It's not worth it.

But by far the best way to get around Holland would be to cycle. There are bike lanes everywhere. Most of the country is flat and pedaling is easy and scenic. My friend told me that bikes have universal right-of-way and I observed that Dutch drivers are well aware and considerate of cyclists. You could rent a bike or just buy one; you can get a cheap new one for 159 euro or just get a decent used one, the market turns over often and there is a plentiful supply. I rode a bike for day trips and I now I want to return to Holland to do a proper multi-day tour.

Most Dutch people speak English; they start learning in primary school. But as with most places in the world, trying to speak a little Dutch will get you a long way. Just your attitude and effort will make a lot of difference and will fight the ugly American stereotype we all face abroad.

Amsterdam

I’m starting with Amsterdam because it was my least favorite place in Holland, for reasons that make it the favorite for many other people. I found Amsterdam to be one of those places that is so crowded with tourists that is has ceased to be its own place. It feels like Disney World, with animatronic hookers in the windows and fake boats in fake canals. I didn’t take part in any marijuana or prostitution, but yeah, it’s all there, and all easy to find if that’s what you’re into.

The vice I indulged in was alcohol, and in that regard as well, Amsterdam delivers. I went to Gollem, a good choice. Gollem is what it’s described, a small wood-paneled bar with a superb selection of beers to choose from. It is impossible to drink alone in Gollem; it’s so small you can’t avoid making small talk or rubbing elbows at the bar or sharing a table. Good thing most people are friendly and there for the same thing you are- trying great beers. Westvleteren, the Trappist beer that is supposedly the best in the world, is on the menu. After drinking their fill, beer lovers can also stagger right across the narrow street to the Cracked Kettle (www.crackedkettle.com), a small store with a large selection of beers from all over the world, and get a couple to take home.

I stayed in Stayokay Stadsdoelen for 27 euros. Secure, clean, free breakfast including several different types of breads, lunch meats, jam, butter, coffee, juice. The only problem with Stayokay was its size. I found that the larger hostel felt more anonymous and one of the best things about hostels, the chance to get to know other travelers, was lost. See my comments about Woodstock Hostel in Paris below. Get a reservation for any Amsterdam hostels if you can; they’re busy.

Den Haag

The Hague is a pleasant small city with interesting architecture and proximity to many worthwhile sights. The best thing about Den Haag, in my opinion, is Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” which is in a small art museum called the Mauritshuis, right next to the Dutch parliament building. There are also several more Vermeers and about ten Rembrandts, including the masterpiece “Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp.” Admission was 9.50 euro and it included a discount ticket for a coffee, latte or tea in the museum café. I think it worked out to be about fifty percent off depending on your choice.

Museum Bredius is right across the Hofvijver form the Mauritshuis; 4.50 to get in, and it’s like walking through a rich friend’s house with lots of masterpieces on the walls. A Rembrandt, some interesting Vermeers, and a really cool perspective box that is a 3D painting, in essence.

If you like modern art, the Gemeentemuseum is your destination. Modern to Post-modern art, interactive exhibits where you can make music and art on these huge machines, hundreds of Piet Mondrian works (maybe you didn’t know he painted landscapes before his geometric works), and insane curators who put incongruous works from varied media together with umm. . . creativity. Nine euros.

Scheveningen has a beautiful beach with soft sand and topless bathers whenever the sun is out. You could spend lots of money in the hotels, clubs, and restaurants, or you could take tram #1 from Den Haag with a picnic lunch and not spend much money at all.

Stayokay Den Haag is a really nice hostel with three levels of security (front door, floor access, and room door), a great location, free breakfast just like Stayokay Amsterdam, and a nice bar with travel quotations on the walls where you can be by yourself or easily meet others. Loved it. The Rough Guide I had said it was “across the canal” from Den Haag HS train station, which confused me. To get there, walk out of the front door of HS, turn right, walk a block and you will be at a big intersection with a tram stop. On the other side of the tram stop is a canal, and on the other side of the canal is the hostel. Scheepmakersstraat 27 is the address. www.stayokay.com

Delft

I enjoyed Delft, with its canals and architecture, pleasant squares and cafes it was everything good about Amsterdam without the drugs and prostitution. I climbed to the top of the Nieuwe Kerk, a narrow, steep, claustrophobic stairway ending in a dizzying view from Den Haag to Rotterdam. On the way you can pause behind the clock and see its machinery and the carillion of bells. Delft is definitely worth a stop in a tour of Holland. 3.60 euro for a ticket from Den Haag to Delft.

Vasse

Vasse? Where’s Vasse? A small country town dominated by the spire of its Catholic church, Vasse is about 3 km from the German border in a bucolic landscape perfect for cycling. The entire region east of Appeldoorn to the German border is very pretty, with an abundance of campsites, inns, cafes, windmills, and farms. Picturesque and pleasant. This is where I really want to return with a loaded touring cycle. The wedding was at the country inn Tante Sien, who I highly recommend for just about anything from a cup of coffee to a conference. www.tantesien.nl

will fight the ugly American stereotype we all face abroad.

funny, i think many of us on this board never face this sterotype abroad- did it ever occur to you that not everybody here is american?

But you get points for spelling all the Dutch place names correctly and not calling the currency the 'eurodollar'

Point taken. Of course I'm aware that many members of this community are from various countries.

I could write from another perspective, but I am American and it makes the most sense to write from that perspective here on TT. And since many of us (Americans) have behaved badly in the past, I+ am conscious of that stereotype when +I am abroad. But thanks for your admonishment.

Oh, and I misspelled "Schiphol" above.

Peace

Mike

many members of this community are from various countries.

ALL members of this community are from various countries. Some of them from a country called the US of A.

sorry to belabour the point but it is such a common assumption by Americans on this board-'since this in English it must be American'. This is not an American board, if anything it is an Australian board ;-)
I'm pointing this out since i think it's ironic you display this behaviour whilst talking about how to avoid the stereotype of the bad (insular, self-centered) American.

Somebody who can spell 'Scheveningen' correctly gets cut a little slack with the simpler names like 'Schiphol'

Thanks for the report OP, glad to hear you had a good time. Actually I was born close to Vasse and love to visit the area whenever I go back to visit my relatives, but I doubt many Dutch from other regions have ever heard of the place. I've been to a couple of weddings at Tante Sien as well, funny to read that name mentioned here.

OP - interesting trip report - thanks. To anyone contemplating visiting the Netherlands for the first time, the other place I'd really recommend is Rotterdam - not picturesque but a very lively and enjoyable city with a great arts scene.

OP, I appreciate someone, after getting information to report back about his/her experience.
And when you come back, with your loaded touring bike, please tell me, maybe we can do something together. I'm a cyclist like you, last year I rode in the USA (guess where?) for three weeks.

I live in the area you visited - and where Aribo was born I learn.
Like your observations.

One little comment so that you'll arrive safely in Twente (the area around Vasse and Enschede): cyclists don't have universal right of way. Cyclists coming from the right (equal roads) have right-of-way.

If concrete plans for a visit, feel free to send pm!
PS Agree to #5 about Rotterdam for the arts scene, a bit underestimated, architecture included (http://www.NAi.nl)

thanks for posting, too. you should consider cross-posting your report on the Tree House/'Don't forget to write'-branch as well, in order to get your share in views (should make a nice contrast to all those safari trip reports over there...).

good to know that the next time I'm going to the Overijssel-area, I've at least three experts on this board ;-)

Nautiker (and others), I wouldn't call myself an expert (moreover I moved to the west-NL about 15 years ago), but if you need any info about Twente feel free to ask me.

And to second #6: cyclists do indeed not have universal right of way, although most behave like they have (= are either plain stupid, totally unaware of the presence of other people in this world or both).

cheers aribo, I'll sure get back to it one day!

meanwhile, I've discovered that thorntree is influencing my life to some unknown extents: just the other day I opened a bag of Haribo Lakritzschnecken (it's not in my dictionary, yet I guess you're familiar with that term...) and incidentally ripped away just the 'H' letter - 'oh well', I thought, 'look whom we have here' ;-)

I used to live in Twente too and Tante Sien is an institute in Vasse, how cool that you went there. Twente is lovely for bike and hike trips, though Leiden (where I live now) is def worth a daytrip too should you ever come back. I'm glad you enjoyed the NL and thanks for the trip report!

Too bad you didn't enjoy Amsterdam, it sounds like you got stuck in the touristy part (which indeed is not 'Amsterdam', I hate that part myself... Damrak, Red Light District, Dam square, Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein... yuck).... Too bad you did not find my tips in the Europe FAQ thread before you went, and in many posts I answered in the past.
Might be helpful for a next time, or other travellers reading this:
my personal recommendations for things to see and do in my home town Amsterdam:
go to my website > Travel > Amsterdam Tips.

As for cycling: like another posted pointed out, cyclists do not have the universal right of way, although many cyclists in Amsterdam act like they do. It's just that coming from the right on an equal crossing you have right of way, whether you're in a car or on a scooter or a bike (not walking). And if you go straight and a car coming from behind you turns right, the car has to let you go first because you're going straight.

There have been many useful posts about cycling in the Netherlands (and Belgium) in the Thorn Tree, I will try to look some of them up for you... there are many useful tips in them about signposted scenic bike routes, cheap B&B accommodation especially for cyclists (you need to become a member), taking your bike on a train, etc.

Threads with lots of tips about cycling in the Netherlands :
this thread
another one
and this one too
and another one

Veel plezier!
Cécile
Amsterdam

P.S. Officially 'Holland' is only a small part of the Netherlands, namely the provinces of Zuid-Holland and Noord-Holland.
A bit like England is not the same as the UK, but lots of people still say England.

Nautiker, actually I chose my handle because it's a playful variation on my name, invented by one of my former colleagues, and I didn't notice the connection with the candy brand until I saw one of those (terribly annoying, but that's another matter) Haribo commercials on tv some time later.
After drinking a bit too much I did consider for a split second to make "Aribo macht Kinder froh und Erwachsenen ebenso" my sig line, then realized that that would probably raise a few eyebrows here (or at least sound pretty daft) and gave up on the idea.
Funny that you mention it though, I have had the same experience of associating names and words in real life with TT posters a couple of times.

Oh, and to OP: #12 is right, even though Dutch people refer to their country as Holland as well from time to time (especially when referring to typical Dutch characteristics, when cheering for sports teams and when speaking English), they will never refer to e.g. Twente as being in East-Holland. Most people don't seem to care, but some people from other areas than Noord/Zuid-Holland really don't like being called a Hollander.

aribo, at least you don't have these Thomas Gottschalk-ads - or do you? it's still a mystery to me why they have to spoil good sweets with bad spots... a wonder they're selling anything at all, good for them that everybody is still addicted from childhood days! you knew 'Haribo' is an acronym, too?

good idea not to use their slogan in your sig line. nowadays, I wouldn't claim to make kids happy unless I'm either a clown or a candymaker, just too much room for misunderstanding ;-)

OP, sorry for hijacking your thread ;-)

You've been to tante Sien, you must've heard this one:

A tough farmer's wife - that was my auntie Sien
During her life there is not a lot she's seen

Born in Vasse - always lived in this place
In no other village has she ever shown her face

Only Vasse did she go, she was always there
Vasse is in the Netherlands, a fact of which you may be aware

During the war it was in the German land
And after the war back in Dutch hand

So thanks to the war: for my antie Sien,
There is at least something of the world she has seen!

(loosely translated from Herman Finkers)

The Dutch Tourist Board is preparing new folders and I'm sure Vasse is gonna be one of the landmarks/highlights/must-sees.
And why not?
Funny and accurate translation of Finkers' song/poem, Dr. Who.
So in 2015: Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Vermeer, Tante Sien en .... Cruyff dan maar.
It's time for a change!

Hi there,

As a native Dutch I really enjoyed your post and your view on Holland. The fines for travelling without a ticket in the train are quite steep, makes me feel so bad when I forget to purchase a ticket.
Don't bother about referring to the forum as Americans, I see where you are getting at and it is true trying to master the basics of a language gives you a lot of respect. Most foreigners (German, French, English-Spoken) keep adressing us in their own language, and since most of us speak it it is ok. But when we get to their country (Germany or French) not even English is sufficient. That's the trouble with a small country hehe.
Bye now Daniel

I wouldn't claim to make kids happy unless I'm either a clown or a candymaker, just too much room for misunderstanding ;-)

... and clowns are scary creatures too!

Very good translation indeed dr_who. Finkers rules, he's the funniest guy in the western hemisphere, pity that only some 20 million people can understand what he says.

(Sorry OP for continuing to hijack this thread)

Nautiker, we don't have any Thomas Gottschalk adds here AFAIK. Having seen his beautiful white smile on German tv a couple of times I think that is a good thing. Now if we could only get rid of those corny German adds ((always badly dubbed in Dutch) for cleaning tools (my stomach starts to feel itchy whenever I see those Cillit Bang commercials...).

Hi everyone,

Well, I'm glad a few people enjoyed my report. Thanks to all for replying.

Aribo, Nautiker: I don't mind the so-called "hijacking" at all. dr_who, thanks for the translation. It's even funny in English.

Cecile: Next time I go to Amsterdam, I will keep your suggestions in mind and explore more of the non-touristy parts. This time, since I my friends were going to show me around, I didn't do much research before I left. If I ever do that bike tour, your posts will surely be helpful.

Oh, and thanks for the info, everyone, on bike rights-of-way and the Holland issue . . . I certainly thought that "the Netherlands" and "Holland" were the same place.

Bedankt

Peace

Mike

Graag gedaan. And again bedankt for your trip report.