If you ever venture to the Land Down Under CFC, then I can also recommend Robert Hughes The Fatal Shore ... it is a historical masterpiece. He told me once (at a gallery opening in New York) that he spent ten years in the British Library writing it. But it certainly made his reputation.
Thanks for the recommendation, I will come (after 14 years) this November back to Australia for a fortnight and was constantly searching for a book to bring along. I just ordered it.

