I visited Holland, Belgium and France last month to attend a friend’s wedding. I spent most of my time in Den Haag (the Hague), the Netherlands, but also visited Amsterdam, Delft, Brussels, and Paris. The parts of my trip that are relevant to the Thorn Tree community are below. Feel free to post with any comments or questions.
I ended up writing more than I planned and I began to doubt myself. I hope it’s helpful to someone. Anyway, I enjoy reading the Thorn Tree and I’ve gotten lots of good information on here. So I’m posting the Netherlands report here and maybe later Paris and Belgium.
The Netherlands in general:
Traveling around Holland is easy and comfortable. Public transportation goes everywhere and links make a lot of sense. For example, there is a train station below Schipol airport in Amsterdam and you can be on a train heading to your Holland destination half an hour to forty-five minutes after you plane lands. Buses and trams stop at or near train stations. If you’re going to be in Holland for more than a day, get the fifteen-strip strippenkart from a drugstore or bookshop and that will be a much better deal than buying it on the tram or bus. I think it was 6.80 euro for fifteen strips and 2.40 for a ride that took three strips when I bought it on the tram from the driver.
Oh, and on the trains, you may not have your ticket checked very often, but resist the temptation to ride without one. If you get caught, the fines are steep. It's not worth it.
But by far the best way to get around Holland would be to cycle. There are bike lanes everywhere. Most of the country is flat and pedaling is easy and scenic. My friend told me that bikes have universal right-of-way and I observed that Dutch drivers are well aware and considerate of cyclists. You could rent a bike or just buy one; you can get a cheap new one for 159 euro or just get a decent used one, the market turns over often and there is a plentiful supply. I rode a bike for day trips and I now I want to return to Holland to do a proper multi-day tour.
Most Dutch people speak English; they start learning in primary school. But as with most places in the world, trying to speak a little Dutch will get you a long way. Just your attitude and effort will make a lot of difference and will fight the ugly American stereotype we all face abroad.
Amsterdam
I’m starting with Amsterdam because it was my least favorite place in Holland, for reasons that make it the favorite for many other people. I found Amsterdam to be one of those places that is so crowded with tourists that is has ceased to be its own place. It feels like Disney World, with animatronic hookers in the windows and fake boats in fake canals. I didn’t take part in any marijuana or prostitution, but yeah, it’s all there, and all easy to find if that’s what you’re into.
The vice I indulged in was alcohol, and in that regard as well, Amsterdam delivers. I went to Gollem, a good choice. Gollem is what it’s described, a small wood-paneled bar with a superb selection of beers to choose from. It is impossible to drink alone in Gollem; it’s so small you can’t avoid making small talk or rubbing elbows at the bar or sharing a table. Good thing most people are friendly and there for the same thing you are- trying great beers. Westvleteren, the Trappist beer that is supposedly the best in the world, is on the menu. After drinking their fill, beer lovers can also stagger right across the narrow street to the Cracked Kettle (www.crackedkettle.com), a small store with a large selection of beers from all over the world, and get a couple to take home.
I stayed in Stayokay Stadsdoelen for 27 euros. Secure, clean, free breakfast including several different types of breads, lunch meats, jam, butter, coffee, juice. The only problem with Stayokay was its size. I found that the larger hostel felt more anonymous and one of the best things about hostels, the chance to get to know other travelers, was lost. See my comments about Woodstock Hostel in Paris below. Get a reservation for any Amsterdam hostels if you can; they’re busy.
Den Haag
The Hague is a pleasant small city with interesting architecture and proximity to many worthwhile sights. The best thing about Den Haag, in my opinion, is Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” which is in a small art museum called the Mauritshuis, right next to the Dutch parliament building. There are also several more Vermeers and about ten Rembrandts, including the masterpiece “Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp.” Admission was 9.50 euro and it included a discount ticket for a coffee, latte or tea in the museum café. I think it worked out to be about fifty percent off depending on your choice.
Museum Bredius is right across the Hofvijver form the Mauritshuis; 4.50 to get in, and it’s like walking through a rich friend’s house with lots of masterpieces on the walls. A Rembrandt, some interesting Vermeers, and a really cool perspective box that is a 3D painting, in essence.
If you like modern art, the Gemeentemuseum is your destination. Modern to Post-modern art, interactive exhibits where you can make music and art on these huge machines, hundreds of Piet Mondrian works (maybe you didn’t know he painted landscapes before his geometric works), and insane curators who put incongruous works from varied media together with umm. . . creativity. Nine euros.
Scheveningen has a beautiful beach with soft sand and topless bathers whenever the sun is out. You could spend lots of money in the hotels, clubs, and restaurants, or you could take tram #1 from Den Haag with a picnic lunch and not spend much money at all.
Stayokay Den Haag is a really nice hostel with three levels of security (front door, floor access, and room door), a great location, free breakfast just like Stayokay Amsterdam, and a nice bar with travel quotations on the walls where you can be by yourself or easily meet others. Loved it. The Rough Guide I had said it was “across the canal” from Den Haag HS train station, which confused me. To get there, walk out of the front door of HS, turn right, walk a block and you will be at a big intersection with a tram stop. On the other side of the tram stop is a canal, and on the other side of the canal is the hostel. Scheepmakersstraat 27 is the address. www.stayokay.com
Delft
I enjoyed Delft, with its canals and architecture, pleasant squares and cafes it was everything good about Amsterdam without the drugs and prostitution. I climbed to the top of the Nieuwe Kerk, a narrow, steep, claustrophobic stairway ending in a dizzying view from Den Haag to Rotterdam. On the way you can pause behind the clock and see its machinery and the carillion of bells. Delft is definitely worth a stop in a tour of Holland. 3.60 euro for a ticket from Den Haag to Delft.
Vasse
Vasse? Where’s Vasse? A small country town dominated by the spire of its Catholic church, Vasse is about 3 km from the German border in a bucolic landscape perfect for cycling. The entire region east of Appeldoorn to the German border is very pretty, with an abundance of campsites, inns, cafes, windmills, and farms. Picturesque and pleasant. This is where I really want to return with a loaded touring cycle. The wedding was at the country inn Tante Sien, who I highly recommend for just about anything from a cup of coffee to a conference. www.tantesien.nl
