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Hi I am finishing a cruise In Venice on 20 May, coming from S Africa, and having a couple of nights in Venice as part of the package. As I want to extend and stay on in Italy, I need to shortly advise the cruise agent of my return date. I have been to Italy before and been to Florence and Rome so was not planning on including them. I will be flying out of Venice. I was thinking of giving myself 3 weeks, maybe plus a few days if necessary, so I really need to have a reasonable idea on where I want to go before I set a date for flights back to Australia. I am a well travelled woman in my 60s and will be on my own. I want to enjoy the scenery, quiet walks (no big isolated hikes), the food, architecture, an occasional gallery or museum and just people watching, particularly locals. I know I am going to be there as the summer crowds start to come in. The following is just an idea and I can easily reverse if it will help me avoid crowds, better weather timing, train timetables etc. I do not want to hire a car. I would also as much as possible prefer to stay where accommodation may be a little cheaper but don't want to waste too much time and money trying to do unrealistic day trips. I would really like to include at least one stop that is not overrun with other tourists so I can sit in a local piazza and watch locals about their business!
Verona -either as a day trip from Venice, 1 night stop, or stopover on way through to
Lake Como - perhaps a week here to enjoy lake boat rides, walks etc. I am thinking of around Bellagio but would love to know if there is a smaller place with good access to public transport, walks and is scenic. I have also been considering going up into Switzerland to St Moritz for 1 night mainly to enjoy the views from the San Bernardino Express train. (Then 1 night somewhere on return if I can't make it to Genoa easily.)
Genoa/Portofina/Camogli for maybe 4-5 nights. Could I stay in 1 of these and do day trips? I am interested in the Italian Riviera but not sure if it is worth it.
Manarola or Riomaggiore for 3-4 nights
Lucca or Siena for a couple of nights with a stopover in Pisa (to see Tower mainly). I know Siena is further south but I think it might appeal to me more. I know this is a personal choice but interested in comments.
1 night in Venice before flying home.

Does this seem doable? Are there ideas of other places in this general area that might suit me better?

Thanks

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Welcome to the Western Europe Branch hessian ... fair way from New Zealand!

Just to provide tabular summary, something like this:

Venice (2 nights)
Verona (1)
Lake Como (6)
St Moritz Train (1)
Portofina (4)
Manarola (4)
Lucca (2)
Siena (2)
Venice (1)

Total nights: 23 ... does that seem about right, broadly? If so, a couple of comments:

  • become familiar with the Italian rail site: http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom-en
  • we visited Verona just as a through-stop, and found our five hours was good
  • there's a left-luggage facility at the station
  • we preferred Manarola as a village, plus it's a bit more "central"
  • the easiest walk from Riomaggiore remains closed, I understand
  • I assume there is a left-luggage facility at Pisa Centrale
  • but note that Pisa S.Rossore Station is much closer - five-minute walk
  • both Lucca and Siena are beautiful - San Gimignano is too, but a little more complicated to get to
  • we stayed in Como, and visited Bellagio and Menaggio across the water - both of which were very attractive, although Varenna is often suggested too
  • check the Bernini Express for access from the Lake Como region, and then return to Milan / Genoa etc ... and even the Glacier Express

As you are probably aware, fast trains (with a reserved seat) can be significantly cheaper booked in advance - now is not too early to start looking at prices and purchases.

I know you're coming off a cruise, but travel as light as possible ... getting on and off the many trains in your itinerary can be cumbersome with heavy luggage, as there can be steps into carriages, and internal level changes involved, plus station steps.

Overall, I think your itinerary has good shape, although with the potential for places to be busy. The only additional suggestion would be (since you're in Venice) is to look at the Dolomites ... we stayed in Bolzano in 2017 on almost exactly your dates, and used trains and buses to Val Gardena and Cortina d'Ampezzo ... and it was very attractive.

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Thank you, surprised to see your name come up here! My nights in Venice at the start aren't included in my 3 weeks but can add two other nights somewhere else. DO you know of any quiet place in Ital Riviera? I had thought of the Dolomites but thought it might be too far to really see properly in that time frame. I guess the lakes and CT are my priority but I have always found that while I enjoy the big tourist highlights my favourite spot tends to be a little off the beaten path. Hard to achieve, I know, in Italy. DO you now if it is possible to base myself in Genoa and do day trips to places like Portofino?

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Hi - no - can't answer your additional questions with any first-hand experience.

The Italian Riviera (from Nice to Genoa) looked very attractive by train, but can't attest to how busy the towns are.

Genoa was nice for a walk-through, but you might do better to stay closer to Portofino, although the train to S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino is pretty short (16-51 minutes, depending on station), then presumably a local bus to Portofino itself.

The Dolomites were lovely, but it took us a lot of effort, in combinations of trains and buses, to get places. If I were doing it again, I'd consider renting a car for four days and roaming a bit more thoroughly, and efficiently.

BTW ... a typo above - it should be the Bernina Express, and includes a bus into Italy. Menaggio might have the best rail and bus connections to Tirano (Bernina Express bus terminal).

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Thanks!

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Having a bit of a look at it ... you could take the Bernina Express from (say) Menaggio to St Moritz or Chur, then the Glacier Express to Brig (into Zermatt for a night or two if you had the time - it's outstanding) and then from there a regular train to Genoa via Milan. Nice trip ... but might not be especially cheap!

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Ummm, very interesting, food for thought!

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If you want to travel from Lake Como to Tirano to take the Bernina Express route then I'd opt for going from Varenna because it's on the train line. Varenna is lovely and also has ferries to other spots around the lake. You don't have to take the Bernina Express trains with their panoramic windows unless you want to. Ordinary trains travel the same route more frequently and for slightly less cost. But the Bernina Express at all is quite in the other direction to your other destinations and doesn't fit all that well. If super keen, then I'd check to whether it is possible to travel Varenna - St Moritz or further north (by train) - then take the bus to Chiavenna (sp?)on the Italian border - train back to Varenna. I'm not sure that this could be done in one day without checking but very scenic. Personally, I'd want to get out and explore the area rather than sit on a train/bus all day though.

It also sounds as though you might be better flying home from Milan than Venice (or Genoa if there are flights from there). Another option would be Lucca area - Liguria area - Como area - fly home from Zurich. But I'd only do that if really keep to see Switzerland and I think you'd be spreading yourself too thin without dropping somewhere else.

Sorry if that's rambling but it sounds like you're exploring ideas at the moment. T

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But the Bernina Express at all is quite in the other direction to your other destinations and doesn't fit all that well.

Quite true, but the Bernina / Glacier combo (or as you say, regular trains on the same routes) might by the OP's only realistic shot at seeing the Swiss Alps with relatively little logistical stress - given that she is committed to Lake Como in any case.

Catching the Gornergrat mountain railway up "close" to the snow-covered Matterhorn was one of the most spectacular days I've had in Europe. The Mont Blanc cable car from Chamonix is in the same class, but much more difficult to get to.

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Thanks both of you. I am indeed only exploring ideas so that I can work out when/where to fly home.

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