I spent a weekend in Dordogne in February and even though it was empty, most places were closed, I still had a good time. I ate a lot, the food is amazing there! It was so good I wrote a blog post about it - http://www.juliebazar.com/dordogne/
Happy to answer any question, you may have.
Sweet little blog, Julie. We live here, in a commune outside Le Bugue, and winter is our favorite time here. No tour buses and campervans clogging up the roads, no lines at the attractions, generally decent weather, all the weekly markets open, and, perhaps contrary to your experience, many things open, just a few tourist shops closed (the owners are all off to Corsica and Ibiza). As for the food, yes, the typical Périgourdin cuisine does tend to be a bit heavy, but more and more restaurants are opening up with lighter fare focusing on the local bio products. We had one of the most exceptional meals of my life two days ago at Le Layotte in Tursac: 8 courses, and only two of them (confit de canard avec pommes de terre sarladaises and daube de cerf) could have been considered heavy. Everything else was light and produced right there on the farm: velouté de betteraves; salade sauvage avec choux blanc et rouge, pousse de fougères, et fleurs de primavère; jambon fumé....etc. It's becoming easier and easier to find alternatives to duck and goose, though there is never an alternative to truffles! Kiwis are also a staple product of the region and used creatively in all sorts of light dishes.
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