Hey there,
Heading to Paris, and Ive done the usual Champs Elysees/Eiffel Tower type things before. This time, Im mainly interested in seeing the grittier ethnic side of the city. Ive always wanted to travel to Africa and the MidEast but havent yet had a chance-so I figure this might be a good time to take a look, seeing that Paris is (ironically) probably the largest African cultural centre on the planet at the moment. Some ideas Ive found from skimming the net would be - the Institut of the Arab World, Musee d`Quai Branly, Black Blancs Beur (a black/Arab gay club!), check out the world music scene and French hip hop (IAM, MC SOlaar, and I love TTC!!!) ...
Any tips? Been to any of these places and how do you rate them?
What is a funky neighborhood to stay in if I want to see Paris "in living color?"
And any recommendations - funky hoods, clubs, markets etc etc?
Cheers! :)

Metro Château Rouge is the heart of the African neighborhood, but all of the Goutte d'Or area slightly north or Barbès-Rochechouart is very interesting, as it is mostly definitely different from what most people see in Paris. The big ultra-cheap clothing store Tati on the corner of Barbès-Rochechouart is perhaps the most famous destination in France for residents of North and West Africa, who buy everything they can lay their hands on there. Rue Myrha, rue Doudeauville, rue Poulet and rue Léon are among the streets to check out in the Goutte d'Or/Château Rouge area -- you will find a multitude of African music shops, plus dozens of fabric shops proposing "wax" (tie-dye) items. The Marché Dejean right at metro Château Rouge, as well as the market overflow area on rue Poulet is probably as close to an African street market as you can get. It pulls in Africans from the entire Paris metropolitan area to get items that they can't find elsewhere. At least half of the shops are specialized in fish of all sorts, so there is quite an aroma.
All of this is a world away from the Institut du Monde Arabe or the Musée du Quai Branly, which present an ultrachic view of the culture of that part of the world.

There are several clusters of "ethnic neighbourhoods". First is the whole Goutte d'or, metro barbes rochechouart (lines 2 and 4) which is full of bustle & shops. Also s the area that spreads around strasbourg st denis (lines 4, 8, 9) and chateau d'eau (alosi line 4). This later is not the same as chateu rouge which is mentioned above. Menilmontant area (line 2) is also good.

You could also pass by Belleville or take a trip to Saint-Denis and its great food and world market that take place on the sunday in the downtown.

metro stations
African: Château Rouge, Marcadet-Poissonniers, Simplon, Château d'Eau
Chinese, Indochinese: Porte de Choisy, Tolbiac, Olympiades, Belleville, Pyrénées, Marx Dormoy, Arts-et-Métiers
North African: Barbès-Rochechouart, Marcadet-Poissonniers, Oberkampf, Belleville, Menilmontant, Porte de Montreuil
Indian, Srilankan, Pakistani: Château d'Eau, La Chapelle, Marx Dormoy, Gare de l'Est
Turkish, Kurdish: Strasbourg-Saint Denis, Château d'Eau, Gare de l'Est
Iranian: Charles Michels
Armenian: Ecole Vétérinaire
West Indian: Porte de la Chapelle, Simplon
Japanese: Pyramides
Lebanese: George V, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Alma Marceau
There are more.