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Hi all,

My girlfriend and I are heading to Ireland in a week and a half for 8.5 days. We're most interested in seeing a mix of scenery and castles. We fly in to Dublin on an overnight flight (Montreal - Philidelphia - Dublin) on Saturday Sept. 12 at 8:30 AM and fly out Sunday Sept. 20 mid afternoon. Here is what I am thinking at the moment:

Sat - Land in Dublin, leave immediately (via rental car) for Kilkenny. Spend night in Kilkenny or surrounding area.
Sun - Drive to Rock of Cashel, then on to Killarney or Kenmare (lots of driving this day I suppose?)
Mon - Drive the RoK
Tue - Wake up early, visit Dingle Peninsula. Start driving northward mid to late afternoon.
Wed. - ?
Thu. - ?
Fri - Head back to Dublin, drop off car at airport then head into town
Sat - Day in Dublin
Sun - Fly out of Dublin at 2:30PM

I'm having trouble planning this trip as we are used to longer backpacking trips at a much slower pace. Should I spend more time down in County Kerry, or is the time I have left for it enough and we should head northward to Cliffs of Moher, Burren. Would we have time for a day visit to the Aran Islands (say on Thursday).

Any suggestions/criticisms are welcome, this trip has snuck up on us and we are trying to plan in a hurry.

Thanks!

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1

Your schedule looks fine, although I'd have a back up to the Ring of Kerry if the weather isn't good - the Ring is all about looking at beautiful scenary from your car - if its misty and wet, then it makes for quite a boring long drive. Better to explore the area around Kenmare/Killarney instead if thats the case. If you do the Ring, I'd suggest exploring the area around the Killarney National Park first (there are some very beautiful walks), then just loop around to finish in Dingletown (An Daingean) - it'll save you an early start on Tuesday! Dingle is a lovely area, well worth spending more than a day, but on a tight schedule then you can squeeze a lot into it as its quite compact. If the weather is nice and clear, consider climbing Mount Brandon, the views from the top are quite breathtaking.

From Dingle I'd suggest driving north, taking the ferry over the Shannon at Tarbert, then exploring north Clare. I'm not sure of the schedule of ferries from Doolin at that time, it may not be possible to do a daytrip over. Personally, I think if you visit the Aran Islands, you should do an overnight stay.

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2

I'm not too sure that leaving immediately after a long flight is the best thing to do. You'll have to deal with traffic (yes it is a Sat, but there'll still be lots of traffic), roadworks and driving on the 'wrong' side. Whenever I fly back from the States, all I want to do is crash for a few hours. No way I'd be getting in a car and driving 2/3 hours to Kilkenny!

Aran is definately an overnighter. You say on Tue you are driving north, I'd really recommend overnighting in Galway and then getting the ferry to Inismore. You can leave the car at the ferry terminal for a few nights without worrying about it too much.

I really can't recommend Aran enough. The cliffs at Dun Aeonghus are way better than at the Cliffs of Moher. OK, so they're a few meters lower, but when you're on your belly on Aran hanging over the edge looking down 200 meters... who's counting! :) Try that at the Cliffs of Moher.
You can hire bicycles (recommended) and cycle the whole length of the island in an hour or two. And after that you'll be dying for a cold beer in one of the pubs, too. I recommend the Kilmurvey House B&B.

Anyway, I can't comment on the Ring of Kerry, personally I find it boring and crowded with tour-buses.

On the way back from Galway to Dublin, you could stop at Athlone (a fairly rare example of a Norman castle in military use up to the '80s).

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Hi, You are right to break up the trip from Dublin to dingle. The drive from Dublin to Dingle is over 5 hours. While down the south west I would visit Kinsale, Co. Cork (the food capital of Ireland). Very picturesque and a 3 hour drive from Dublin. Go to the Blue Haven and sit yourself at the bar with a Guinness and some beautiful seafood chowder. Nothing better! You could also visit Blarney Castle from here (about 30mins from Kinsale) and then work you way to Dingle (possibly 2 hours). Dingle is well worth the trip. Great bars for meeting locals and fantastic scenery. Also, if you are renting a car I would stick to the locals. Some of my family used www.carrentaldublin.ie before and they said it was the best for prices etc. I haven't used myself. There are good maps and route planners there. It's a pity you didn't book your return flight from Shannon to save the long drive back to Dublin. You could fly back from Kerry airport to Dublin with Ryanair. Only 30mins and very cheap. Let me know how you get on. You won't be disappointed.

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I agree with seaneendubh, going straight into driving after that long haul - well, it wouldn't be comfortable... Roads in Ireland are tricky at the best of times, and dangerous when you're tired (not trying to discourage you here, just want you to enjoy yourselves!). Have you thought about spending your day in Dublin at the start of the trip? Would give you a chance to acclimatise yourselves, and pick up some maps etc, do some last minute research.

I've never been to the Rock of Cashel or the Dingle Peninsula (despite a couple of fantastic backpacking trips from Cork to Galway along the coast, and numerous daytrips - I'm usually based in Bantry Bay where my grandparents used to live) - somehow I always run out of time - so I can't advise you there. They're top of my list for my next trip though!

However, here's what I can say:

Killarney is well worth a visit - if you're interested in castles and Irish history, Ross Castle is an absolute must, and in a beautiful location! http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/South-West/RossCastle/
The surrounding mountains and oak forests are truly glorious - probably not as big as what you're used to in the states, but staggering nonetheless.

The Ring of Kerry is wonderful, but take your time about it, and try to take a few loops off the "main" road (there's a reason why the buses only go anti-clockwise - the road is too narrow in places for them to be able to pass each other - so tough luck if you want to take public transport in the other direction!! I've hitchhiked a couple of times, frustrating because I couldn't ask people to stop to take pictures).

If you can at all, visit Skellig Michael - it's one of two tiny steep islands off the Iveragh peninsula (boats sail from Ballinskelligs, Portmagee, Valencia Island at about 10am most days until October) that stick up out of the Atlantic like jagged shark fins. Little Skellig is only inhabited by birds, but Great Skellig/Skellig Michael was an outpost for Irish monks for hundreds of years (sacked by the Vikings occasionally). It has also had a lighthouse, now vacated. the only people allowed to stay there now are archeologists in the summer, and only 200 people are allowed on the island every day (though I've never seen that many). You leave the harbours in small boats at 10, and after about 45 minutes sail, have 2-2,5 hours before you're called back to the boats - more than enough to climb the ca. 700 steps to the so-called beehive huts (the stone living quarters of the monks, that still stand after all this time). It's an awe-inspiring place! Also lots of birds, if you're interested. http://www.skelligexperience.com/skellig_michael.html

Skip Kenmare - it's very touristy, and stuffed with wool shops selling frumpy jerseys and hats. Nice in small doses no doubt, but rather overwhelming as it is. Accomodation is expensive even at this time of year (I write from experience!). The mountain pass from there to Glengarriff is spectacular though! But don't try it in bad weather - you won't see anything! But then, that goes for all of Ireland. It's a good time of year to go though.

I can recommend Tralee. Pleasant town with lots going on, and Finnegan's hostel is genuinely charming! (are you hostel or hotel people?)

Fast forward between Tralee and Doolin - the Tarbert ferry, as PhilipD suggests, will cut a few miles off the journey. Doolin is nice (Aille River Hostel is a great place to stay, but book a couple of days ahead, it's popular), as are the villages a little further inland. The Cliffs of Moher are overrated and over-touristy. I agree with Seaneendubh on that count. Some fancy underground viewing platform was being built when last I was there, which meant you couldn't even stand on top of the cliff and enjoy the wind anymore - sounds bizarre.
The Arans are a different story. Overnighting is probably necessary, the boats don't go that often. Inisheer is small and bleak (nice beach in summer - chilly water though!), Inishmore is overrun in summer, but about this time it should be better. It seems more furtile than Inisheer, which basically consists of stones and yet more stones. I've heard that the middle island, Inishmaan is the place to go. Fewer people have discovered it, and it has its fair share of interesting places. Most of the ferries that go from Inisheer to Inishmore do stop at Inishmaan even if it doesn't say so on the schedule (I was cheated by that last time) - ask the skipper. If you're at all interested in literature, try the plays of J.M.Synge, one of the first to properly capture the atmosphere and dialect of western Ireland. He is to the Aran Islands what James Joyce is to Dublin.

If you do go to Inishmore, remember that while everyone else visits the famous Dun Aeonghus on the cliffs, Dun Eochlan inland is also worth a look - there is no official path up there (though there's an official tourist sign when you get there - typical Irish logic;), but with a couple of sturdy trouser (against the brambles) it's an easy walk up from the road - and it's very unlikely anyone else will be there to spoil the view! I went up there one night at full moon, and watched the moonlight shimmering on the sea all around - magical!

Galway is a lovely place to finish off - lots to see, and lots going on, plus good food! There is a night bus to Dublin if you like - takes about 3,5 hours, to spare you the drive. (Also means you can have a few at the pub before leaving, without DUI;)

Phew, long reply - are you still with me?

This would be my suggestion, weather permitting:

Saturday: Arrive Dublin, spend the day and night there. (it's saturday, should be fun!)
Sunday: Drive to Cashel, poke around, continue to Killarney in the evening.
Monday: Explore Killarney, Ross Castle, and surrounds.
Tuesday: Up early, drive south part (so you get the sunset over the water in the evening) of RoK before the roads get busy, take boat to Skellig Michael at 10 (having booked beforehand), afterwards continue to Dingle peninsula.
Wednesday: Dingle, then the long drive north to Doolin. Visit one of the local pubs that have live music.
Thursday: Sail to the Aran Islands. Hire bikes and explore whichever island you've chosen.
Friday: Return to mainland, drive via the Burren to Galway.
Saturday: Explore the various historical places in the vicinity.
Sunday: return to Dublin...

It should be do-able... You'll never have enough time to do all you want, but this should be a good sample taste... I don't have a driving license myself, and envy your mobility! Hitching is easy in Ireland, but restrictive all the same.

Hope you have a great time and that you can use this reply:)

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Thanks to all of you for spending the time to write such detailed responses!

I appreciate the concern but I'm pretty set on leaving Dublin right away and enjoying it on the way back. I'm sure I'll be able to handle the drive, especially with my friends caffeine and adrenaline by my side. I've read about Skellig Michael and had wanted to visit it, but I didn't think we'd have enough time, however at your suggestion ekerane I think we will want to try and make the trip over. It looks absolutely amazing and I think it would be something I would regret not visiting (weather permitting).

Here is what I'm thinking now:
Sat - Land in Dublin, leave immediately (via rental car) for Kilkenny. Spend night in Kilkenny.
Sun - Drive to Rock of Cashel, then on to Killarney, night in Killarney.
Mon - Visit Killarney national park.
Tue - Start early on the ring of Kerry, going clockwise, arriving at an appropriate place to catch a ferry to Skellig Michael. End the day in the Dingle Peninsula. Spend night in Dingle.
Wed. - Drive from Dingle to Doolin. Night in Doolin.
Thu. - Ferry to Inishmore (hopefully in the morning?), explore island by bike
Fri - Ferry back to mainland. Head back to Dublin, drop off car at airport then head into town
Sat - Day in Dublin
Sun - Fly out of Dublin at 2:30PM

What do you guys think? Basically we would be skipping Galway with this itinerary, unless we go straight from Dingle to Galway. Another possibility would be to skip Monday's plan, shift everything down a day, and spend one night in Galway before heading back to Dublin.

Let me know what you guys think, and thanks again for the responses you've already given.

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It sounds great pretty much any way you turn it;)

Cutting out Galway is fine - it's a good place to start from another time, if you ever feel like coming back to explore further north.

I think there were ferries leaving at 10am from Doolin to the islands last summer, so that should still be possible, unless of course a storm blows up, in which case they may be delayed (but in that case you won't be so keen to get across anyway, it can be a rough ride in the smaller ferries - if any of you suffer from seasickness easily, pick up some anti-seasickness pills on the way up - I wasn't bothered, but one of my friends went rather green, poor thing).

Probably just let the weather decide what you do in the end, and don't get too set on any one course - it can change pretty quickly, and wreck the best of plans - and on the other hand you can get some wonderful surprises - that's Ireland for you!

Enjoy:)

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You know that you can't bring the car to Aran, right? Just check that there's safe parking at Doolin. I've used the ferry from Rosaveal and I've never had a problem leaving the car for a few nights, so Doolin should, hopefully, be the same.

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