one week in ireland - from dublin to belfast

Below are a couple of posts I've added to previous threads, it may give you some idea on what to do and where to go - hope it helps.

Place no. 1 Dublin

There are so many aspects of this town that I love, the most being the gorgeous Georgian architecture especially the hundreds of red brick houses on the south side of the city, which are now mainly law firms offices and financial firms but so much history is contained with in the walls of these building. I always find it unfortunate that so many people who come to Dublin from aboard rarely venture outside the area of Temple Bar and the ubiquitous bars of the area, for failure to do is to miss a great opportunity to see this great city. Yes I have seen all these building before, 100s no 1000s of times before, seeing them on my way to and from work, meeting and catching up with friends. From the Georgian buildings and squares of Merrion and Fitzwilliam and the elegant Customs House, to the stronghold of the GPO and the imposing Four Courts. This is my town with well over a 1000 years of history and a town I appreciated more the more I learnt about it. Kilmainham Gaol is a must for anyone who wants to get a better understanding of Irish history. Many of our patriots from our various up-risings against foreign rule were executed here. I did the Guinness tour years and years ago and it was good, don’t know what it is like now but I know a good few people who have done and they have come back with good reports. This city is not recognisable to the city of 15-20 years ago, it has changed drastically, some good, some bad. There is no denying Dublin has character. The contrast of the elegant 18th century quarter with the dingy “slums” only 2-3 kms away is as much a comment on the Irish mentality as anything. It's a rich experience so don't try and rush it.

Place no. 2 - Glendalough

This stop was and still remains my favourite place in Ireland (no on earth) - Glendalough, I've been here countless times but its magic never fails to enchant me. It is as close to heaven as one can get. Just 40km of so south of Dublin city in Co. Wicklow, it is a bastion of mystical Ireland set amongst the most beautiful of V shaped valleys; it is another world from Dublin. Founded in the 6th century, Glendalough is an old Monastic settlement, still well preserved; the area is a playground for us Dubliners especially during summer weekends. With an upper and lower lake and dozens of hiking trails you would never guess 1.2 million people leave just 40km up the road. I think I could stay here forever and never get bored. I just love the various hiking trails and even when the area is thronged with people you will always find quite areas. The quickest way to get here is by the main N11 road that runs along the east coast but the best way is to veer off the main road and go through the Wicklow Mountains, at its best the landscape here is devoid of human life and at its worst unforgiving. They only way you can do the 2nd route is if you have your own car or doing a day tour with one of the many bus tour companies. The whole area of Glendalough needs to be explored by foot as this is the only real way to appreciate its beauty. Being here and exploring the area, you would be forgiven for thinking that you had died and gone to heaven. You can get here from Dublin in just over an hour on the main road but why bother taking the quick route, take the full day and go over the mountains and take in this dramatic scenery. Glendalough will always be a place I shall visit again and again. It is one of the most beautiful corners of Ireland and if you are in Dublin and only have time to visit 1 place outside of the city, this place should be it, in fact it should be made mandatory, punishable by death if you don't

Place no. 3 - Kilkenny

Everyone loves Kilkenny City, small by international standards, this small city punches above it weight. If you get tired of drinking in Dublin then Kilkenny is the place to come to and if drinking is not your thing well there are plenty of other things to keep you amused. The first thing to do is explore Kilkenny Castle and it's grounds. The castle was in the hands of the Butler family for around 600 years until the 1930s and then it was bought by the State in the 1970s for around 100/EUR. The grounds around the estate are gorgeous, beautifully manicured. The tour inside is good, it last about 45-60 minutes or so but the thing is you only get taken around 6 rooms or so and you can only do it by guided tour. There is a timeless appeal about the castle and area and grounds I could explore again and again. If it is a nice summer’s name, it great to lie out on the expansive grounds just relaxing. The other main sights around here are St Canice's Cathedral, the Round Tower and the ancient Grave Slabs, all of which are between 800-1000+ years old. From the top of Round Tower you get great views over the countryside.

Place no. 4 – Cashel Co. Tipperary

This is a must; it is like a little gem is thrown your way. The gem is this case is the Rock of Cashel, which is a fortified defence system that was later, turned over to the church in the 11th or 12th century, so it became a monastery. The gem here was the sight of the Rock that comes into view as you are driving into Cashel (from Dublin), it is quite unexpected and it took my breath away. Sitting high above the surrounding plains on a natural hill you have commanding views of the "Rock" from the road and from the "Rock" you have sweeping views of the vast plains below which are a farmers dream. Before exploring this gem I head over the wall and the fields and explore the ruins of Hore Abbey which sits about 1km from the "Rock". The eerie nature of the abbey is heighten by the fact that when I was there I was the only one here exploring these well preserved ruins and this gives my fantastic photo opportunities. Not far from Cashel is the town of Cahir, set on the bank of the River Suir. Cashel understandably gets all the tourists due to the "Rock" but it is Cahir which is the more attractive town. The small town boasts a great castle; super little pubs and as it is only about 15km from Cashel it is well worth the trip.

Place no. 5 - Kinsale, Co. Cork

Cork - Ireland's 3rd largest city after Dublin and Belfast. There has always been rivalry between Dublin and Cork, Cork sees itself as the real and true capital of Ireland, "The Rebel County" or "The People's Republic of Cork" as it called. My main stop off points here were Kinsale and Blarney and little time was spent in the city. Blarney has its castle and its famous stone for kissing, set among beautiful grounds, you could happily wonder around here and never go into the castle. I have to say I was very surprised at how much I liked it, I didn't expect not to like it so it was a nice surprise when I got there. The best way to see Kinsale is either on foot or bike about 50 minutes from Cork city. Brightly coloured houses and a town full of history and a town that bursts with life, it is a town that you take and explore slowly

Place no. 6 - Kerry

Everyone comes here - Kerry - Known as the "Kingdom of Kerry" and is reputed as the gem of Ireland's crown, it is where our highest mountains are, deep glacial lakes and peninsulas of outstanding beauty. Although all this is true and many other people believe it too hence the coach load of people, it can make it a bit maddening. Chances are you will do the famed Ring of Kerry you will get stuck behind one of the many coaches that trek the 180km route each day. If you are not stuck behind the coach you are probably in the coach. Killarney is the tourist Mecca here and if you want peace and solitude, then hop on a bike and cycle around the beautiful national park. Killarney national park is beautiful and perfect solitude can be found in many areas of the park, the lakes and the dramatic mountain back drops are inspiring. There are some many hiking trails to do or just stay on the bike and cycle around. Both Muckcross House and Troc Waterfall are located within the park close to one antoher about 5km from the town centre. I’ve been here in both summer and winter, there is a great buzz during the summer but if you are fortunate to have good weather in winter, Killarney will reward you with beauty and solitude and the colours of an New England Fall. However it is the small towns for Annascaul when tourist rarely venture that I love, it is these towns that make me think I have a delicious secret.

Tralee is the main town in the county, it’s no great shakes really, more commercial that touristy.

I expect I shall get some angry PMs, like I did previously based on what I am going now. If you are around this part of the country you may come across Limerick city - I spent very little here and with good reason, in Ireland it is infamously known as Stab city, if that is not enough to deter you from going there, this hopefully will, stay away from it, it is a complete shithole, just like the plague, avoid at all cost. Half the city’s population seemed to have arms in slings and the other half had legs in casts, I‘m sure they can’t all be accident prone, it probably has something to do with it violent reputation. A city of this size (15-20 smaller than Dublin), should not have this level of social problems. Based on some angry PMs I received before, I did return to the city for a 2nd time just to see if I was a little unkind and unjust to the city as they said I was. Wow how wrong 2nd time round I found the city to be just as shitty as the 1st time.

Place no. 7 Doolin,The Cliffs of Moher & Inis Oírr

From Doolin you have a great view of the Cliffs of Moher and Inis Oírr (the smallest of the Aran Islands) but neither are in view when it is poring rain and the clouds hang so low that you can almost touch them and the waves crash upon the ocean shore at the end of June but more reminiscent of the end of November. It is here that you really need Mother Nature to play with you and pray for good weather but for the 3 days I was here, I got little of it. The strange thing with Doolin is that you see a load of coaches, cars and caravan but never many people around, the volume of cars etc don’t equal the volume; don’t know where they go, maybe they disappear in Doolin and reappear up at the Cliffs of Moher. The cycle from Doolin to the Cliffs is about 8km, all up hill, both your quads and lungs get a great work out. The panting and heaving finally abate on the final stretch of road before you come to the famed Cliffs. More than likely you have seen them hundreds of times as have the 8-coach load of people of the scores of cars. Take in the view and take a photo or 2 then leave the hundreds of sheep who’ve left the coaches and walk 10 minutes along the cliffs and you’ll be spoiled by the magnificent views and lack of people. You will always find hoards of people at the Cliffs but you will always find peace and solitude if you are prepared to walk a little bit. By the it is a lot easier cycling to Doolin rather than from Doolin.

Place no. 8 - Galway City, Conamara and Inis Mór

Even hardened True Blue Dubs fall in love with Galway and you will find those who have been to both Dublin and Galway will say Galway is their favourite city. It is a great city, a young feel to it, energetic and vibrant. Galway is a small city and can be easily explored on foot. The following streets all run one after the other and are the main shopping and tourists’ streets Shop St, High St and Quay St. A walk along the river and canal is a way to relax or better still a cruise out on the beautiful Lough Corrib with is the Republic’s largest lake. Galway City is also great as you can use it as your gateway to the beautiful region of Conamara. A region of truly outstanding beautiful, which in my opinion far exceeds that of Killarney/Dingle in Kerry. Maam, Leenane, Kylemore (Abbey), Letterfrack and Clifden are all villages/towns set with either gorgeous mountain back drops, or fjords, or secluded areas where nature speaks louder than any passing car or tourist coach. Of all the 32 counties in Ireland Galway is my favourite. And if you want to add a cherry on top of that cake, you couldn’t do any better than the Aran Island.

Place no. 9 Aran Islands

Off the coast of Co.s Galway and Clare these islands deserve a special mention. One of the few remaining bastions of Gaelic life and culture and my home away from home. Inis Mór, that largestand most visited of the 3 islands. I have been here a number of times and could write rhapsodies about it whether it is the jaw dropping view from Dún Aonghasa, that c 4,000 year old fort is impressive enough but when you see that 300 foot drop into the Atlantic….Most day trippers head up to Dún Aonghasa which leave the rest of the island to the islanders and those staying overnight or for a few day. Exploration of the island should be taken as slow as the pace of life, don’t rush it. Na Seacht dTeampaill , Teaghach Éinne, the 1,000s km of stone walls, the Black Fort are just wonderful monuments. The history, nature, people, it is certainly a place I shall be returning to again and again.

Inis Meáin – The 2nd largest and least visited of the islands. I will always have a soft spot of Inis Méain. The day I sat on the cliffs on the north side of the island watching the powerful Atlantic Ocean pound away of the cliffs far below is a day I’ll never forgot. For the most part it was just me and my, I was joined by a local on his morning walk and we talked for about 30 minutes and in that time we solved all the world’s problems, which is an easy thing to do when it feel there is no one else in the world and that is the feeling you get here. Like it’s big sister Inis Mór there are a number of old stone forts to explore: Dún Fearbhaí: This stone fort of the 1st-7th centuries A.D., or perhaps earlier, is unusual in being almost square, instead of circular. The terraces along the inside of the walls may have been for defenders to look over or for some ceremonial purpose. It is easy to climb on top of the wall, and worth it for the fine view of the low-lying northern part of the island. Dún Chonchúir: This is a large oval fort dating around 1st-7th Century A.D. by Conchúir brother of Aengus of the Fir Bolg, on the highest point on the island. . Inis Meáin has managed to suppress the intrusion of the modern world to a large degree and remains the quietest and most traditional of the three Islands and it was this type of life that inspired the great Irish playwright J. M Synge to pen a number of works. His cottage and “chair” can also be visited on the island.

If you are into roller coasters then you’ll love the ferry from Doolin to Inis Oírr the smallest and the Aran Islands. I’ve heard the crossing can be choppy and rough at anytime of the year and boy was it, but all of this is forgotten when you finally dock and hop a bike and explore this great island. Less visited than it’s bigger sister Inis Mór, Inis Oírr has plenty to keep you amused from the hulking great shipwreck that is The Plassey with it’s rusted body that gives it a real sense of eeriness and desolation In a dramatic demonstration of the power of the Atlantic Storms, the Plassey which was wrecked in 1960 (without loss of life) on "Carraig na Finnise" Reef, was later thrown up on the rocks well above high tide mark. Watch the waves from the mighty Atlantic Ocean crash against the shore and lighthouse but the best thing is just cycling at your leisure soaking up the atmosphere.

Most people get to the island by ferry from Galway but you can also get here via Doolin in Co. Clare.

Place no. 10 – Westport & The Céide Fields

Mayo. A county that can rival Galway in terms of sheer beauty. There are a ton of things you can do here. Mayo is a real outdoor paradise From climbing the famed Croagh Patrick (if you are feeling energetic) and looking out at the stunning views of Clew Bay (breathtaking) or a long leisurely cycle from Westport to Louisbugh along the coast road, you will be rewarded with so many photo opportunities, even being rained on for a solid hour whilst on my bike was worth it. Westport is a nice little town, good buzz and great pubs, although I did find it slightly overrated, the town itself is pretty enough with a really nice river flowing through but the constant flow of traffic is annoying. From Westport you can follow the road to the wild boglands of North Mayo where you will find the Céide Fields. These most extensive Stone Age monument in the world, consisting of field systems, dwelling areas and megalithic tombs. The stone walled fields, extending over thousands of acres are almost 6,000 years old, the oldest known in the world. They are covered by a natural blanket bog with it’s own unique vegetation and wildlife. It is located beside some of the most spectacular cliffs and rock formations in Ireland and a viewing platform is positioned on the edge of the 110m high cliffs.

Place no. 11 – Sligo

From Sligo Town head out to Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery abot 5km away. This is the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland and is also among the country’s oldest, with monuments ranging from five and a half thousand to six and a half thousand years old. Archaeologists have recorded over 60 tombs of which 30 are visible. A restored cottage houses an exhibition relating to the site.

Place no. 12 Derry

I loved Derry; it is a really small city, more of a large town feel to it, full of friendly, outgoing people. Despite the fact that I loved Derry I didn’t spend a huge amount of time there given my own timing restrictions. My main reason for heading here was for the political scene. Anyone interested in social/political (Irish) history then the Bogside is a must. Completely different from 1972, looking at the Bogside from the beautiful city walls one can only imagine the event of that day. The artists’ studio, museum and the poignant murals are a reminder of the painful history this city has endured.

Place no. 13 Belfast and the Giant’s Causeway

I’ve read other comments on the forum about the Causeway, some people think it is overrated and others marvel. I have to side with the former. The romantic in me went with the expectation of these unusual shaped rocks sweeping majestically in the wild North Atlantic Ocean. When I got there on a rainy, muggy, overcast summer’s day, what I got was attacked by the resident fly/wasp population, instead of the wild Atlantic Ocean, I got a dead clam sea full of algae. The Causeway is nice to look at and both the geographical and mythical explanation of how they were formed is interesting (for what it is worth I believe in the mythical) but overall I was disappointed. The walking trails around and above the Causeway however are beautiful. If you are coming here from Belfast, the drive along the Antrim coast is beautiful. Belfast, Ireland’s 2nd largest city, it full of wonder, great pubs and sights. Although Belfast is not my favouirte Irish city, it does have a lot of character.

This is part of my free things to do in Dublin entry
With more people watching the pennies, here is a list of totally and completely free things you can do in the city.

GPO – The headquarters of our Patriots during our 1916 uprising, it was entirely gutted but thankfully restored during the 1920s. It is now a fully working post office (GPO, stands for General Post Office) so you are totally free to walk around. The exterior is beautiful and the imposing columns still have bullet holds from the uprising. For keen photographers, if you stand in the middle of O’ Connell Street beside the Jim Larkin statue, you can take a great portrait shot of both the GPO and The Spire (you will have to crouch down to take it), old and new together. I’ve been able to get the whole Spire in the shot, a wonderful shot esp. if you can take it in sepia. Located in the City centre in Dublin 1.

Garden of Remembrance - This beautiful garden in the heart of the city is dedicated to the memory of all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish Freedom. The large sculpture is based on the theme of the "Children of Lir". The garden is intended as a place of quiet remembrance and reflection. Located in Dublin city centre, Dublin 1

Hugh Lane Gallery - The Hugh Lane Gallery is funded by Dublin Corporation, houses one of Ireland's foremost collections of modern and contemporary art. The original collection, donated by the Gallery's founder Sir Hugh Lane, has now grown to include almost 2000 artworks, ranging from the Impressionist masterpieces of Manet, Monet, Renoir and Degas to works by leading national and international contemporary artists. The Gallery also stages historical and retrospective exhibitions, particularly of Irish art. Located at Parnell Square North in Dublin City Centre, Dublin 1

St. Mary’s Abbey - St. Mary's Abbey is one of Dublin's best-kept secrets. It was once the wealthiest Cistercian Abbey in Ireland. Today only two rooms remain - the Chapter House and the Slype. Located in the city centre in Dublin 1

Georgian Dublin – Walk around the beautiful squares of Merrion and Fitzwilliam and admire the absolutely beautiful Georgian houses around this area and shudder to think what would have replaced these if the governments of the 1950s had actually torn these down as they wanted. Still one of the wealthiest parts of Dublin the houses are now mainly offices for accountants and solicitors etc, if I won the Euro millions, it would be my ideal area of Dublin to live. If only walls could talk... I find this historical area of Dublin fascinating. There are also beautiful Georgian buildings on the north side of the city but the ones on the south side are more visited. Located on both the north and south sides on the River Liffey in Dublin 1 & 2

Merrion Square Park – Lesser known and more tranquil than it’s sister park St. Stephen’s Green. It is my favourite green area of Dublin city, always peaceful, calm and beautiful. At the corner of the park is a statue of Oscar Wilde who was born directly opposite at Merrion Square West; you will always find a number of tourists in the park at his statue. Located in the city centre in Dublin 2 just across from the National Gallery.

The Iveagh Gardens - The Iveagh Gardens are among the finest and least known of Dublin's parks and gardens. Located in the city centre in Dublin 2

Government Buildings - The imposing complex of Government Buildings on Upper Merrion Street was undertaken by the British administration in Ireland.. Fortuitously, the complex was completed in March 1922, and was available immediately to be occupied by the new Irish Free State government. Admission is free and tickets can be obtained from the National Gallery. Located in the city centre in Dublin 2

National Gallery of Ireland - The National Gallery of Ireland houses the national collection of Irish art and European master paintings. Although small by European standard, it is still a fascinating place to wander around and admire. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Located in the city centre in Dublin 2 just across from Merrion Square.

National (History) Museum - The National Museum of Ireland - is the national repository for all archaeological objects found in Ireland and home to over two million artefacts. As a history junkie, I love this place and it is easy to see why. The archaeological collection is the primary repository of ancient Irish artefacts and an indispensable source for researchers into the development of Irish civilization from prehistoric times until the end of the Middle Ages and beyond. The period covered by the exhibitions extends from the Mesolithic through to the end of the medieval period, and includes internationally known treasures such as the Ardagh Chalice, 'Tara' Brooch and Derrynaflan Hoard. Located in the city centre on Kildare Street in Dublin 2.

Bank of Ireland – This beautiful building directly opposite Trinity College is the old Irish Parliament that voted itself out of existence for the 1801 Act of Union. It now houses one of Ireland biggest banks. Architecturally it is very impressive both interior and exterior. Some of the interior has been altered completely, so that it couldn’t be used as a parliament after 1801 but it is still very impressive. It is free to go inside, as it is a working bank. There are also guided tours on certain days but I am not sure if they are free. Located on Dame Street / Westmorland Street opposite Trinity College in Dublin City in Dublin 2

Arbour Hill Cemetery - The military cemetery at Arbour Hill is the last resting place of 14 of the executed leaders of the insurrection of 1916. Among those buried there are Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and Major John Mc Bride. Located at the rear of the National Museum of Ireland about 1.5km from the city centre in Dublin 7

National (History) Museum - Decorative Arts & History Collins Barracks. This branch of the National Museum of Ireland displays houses fine examples of silver, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, furniture, Folklife, clothing, jewellery, coins and medals. All of these are displayed with imagination in innovative and contemporary galleries, which entice you to go further, look harder and examine more closely. Located in the city centre in Dublin 7

Aras an Uachtarain - Residence of the President of Ireland. Admission is free and ickets are issued at the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre only on the day, on a first-come, first-served basis. – Located in the Phoenix Park a few km from the city centre in Dublin 8

Royal Hospital Kilmainham - The Irish Museum of Modern Art, in collaboration with the Office of Public Works, presents the magnificent 17th century Royal Hospital. Located 3km from the city centre in Dublin 8

St. Audoen’s Church - Sited in the heart of the walled medieval city, St Audoen's Church is the only remaining medieval parish church in Dublin. Located in the city centre in Dublin 8

War Memorial Gardens - These gardens are dedicated to the memory of 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1914-1918 war. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Located in Islandbridge in Dublin 8

National Botanic Gardens - The National Botanic Gardens is noted for its fine plant collections holding over 15,000 plant species and cultivars from a variety of habitats from all around the world. Famous for its exquisitely restored and planted glasshouses. About 3.5km north of the city centre in Glasnevin, Dublin 9

Farmleigh - Farmleigh is an estate of 78 acres situated to the north-west of Dublin's Phoenix Park. Developed in order to provide accommodation for visiting dignitaries and guests of the nation, for high level Government meetings and for enjoyment by the public. Farmleigh remains a unique representation of its heyday, the Edwardian period. Located in the Phoenix Park a few km from the city centre in Dublin 15.

If you want to know more about any of the above, please let me know, your eyes must be tired.

Enjoy!