Biking itierary idea - comment on feasibility

The most attractive parts of the Beara are not those that are closest to Bantry. I would definitely consider doing the full circuit of the peninsula and staying at a different place each night. The roads are really quiet around the Beara.

Your plan looks fine, although I would suggest more time in west Cork, less in Kerry. Because of the topography and general road layout, the really scenic roads in west Cork are less trafficked, while in Kerry they tend to be main roads (this is one reason why the Ring is so popular with the coach-tour crowd). At your pace I'd suggest three days to Bantry, while riding along the coast roads where possible (not the N71). Sheeps Head and the area south of Skibbereen (with an overnight in Baltimore) is particularly nice for cycling.

Personally, I wouldn't ride the Ring of Kerry. The road is too busy and quite unpleasant in sections for cycling. There is a cycling 'alternative' route - maps are available from local tourist offices. It uses the mountain road through the centre of the peninsula - a spectacular road, but not pleasant in poor weather, and with no shops or villages for a long way. Also, one day should be enough to explore Dingle by bike, its really not such a big area, the 'loop' road is an easy day ride, and particularly lovely in good weather as there are some nice beaches for a dip. Don't miss out on the ride up the Connor Pass going into Dingle, its quite spectacular, but check your brakes first....

For the ride to Doolin, take the R551, not the N69 to Tarbert, the latter is a terrible road to cycle - but the N69 in Clare isn't too bad, although in general its better to avoid N-roads.

Donegal is wonderful for cycling once you get off the main roads, although be aware that border areas can suffer from insane driving. It is, however, a tough trip by public transport as by train you'd have to go via Dublin. You should be able to get a bus from Galway to Sligo town and cycle up from there if you choose (when riding from Sligo Town to Donegal it is usually better to ride inland - east of Benbulbin rather than along the coast) - but bus drivers have discretion about taking bikes so only do so if you are pretty sure its an off-peak time you are travelling.

A little hint for planning cycle trips in Ireland - use googlemaps for journey planning but give the option as 'walking' not 'driving' - this gives routes using the minor road network.

Your option about picking 3 or 4 destinations would work very well too - I'd suggest places like Baltimore or Glengarrif in West Cork and Doolin or Ballyvaughan in Clare as good bases. For Galway, base yourself well to the west of Galway city, its not a pleasant city to cycle into or out of.

Wow, what an undertaking!

I have never cycled much in Ireland, only hitchhiked, but it has made me aware of many of the same issues; distance between towns, narrow dangerous roads etc. I've rarely been stranded anywhere, but have had to jump into the ditch on more than one occasion because of reckless drivers. Not that I'm trying to put you off;)

I agree with Tony_B about Bantry. I know the Glengarriff area fairly well (my grandparents used to live there, and my dad inherited their bungalow), and have travelled up the west coast (by thumb) a couple of times. Bantry is a market town, and pleasant enough, but the Glengarriff area is geographically far more interesting. It has a micro climate that means the vegetation near the bay is different, very lush, and the view to the mountains is gorgeous! The walk (or cycle) up to Barley Lake through the old forest is fantastic, about 11km, of varying steepness.
The Caha Pass is spectacular!
It was raining cats and dogs when I was last in Adrigole, and haven't been in Castletown for years, so'm afraid I can't comment on those - but the area is generally beautiful.

Kenmare isn't all it's cracked up to be (difficult to find cheap accomadation too) - but the surroundings are, and while Killarney too can be a bit touristy, it's justified - the mountains, lakes and forests are amazing! Choose the road to Killarney carefully, some of them are narrow and quite treacherous (there is a bus, if it gets too bad). The same goes for the RoK, but if you can, do it - it IS beautiful. Go off the main coach trail and take the coastal way by Ballinskelligs (really nice hostel there, with an excellent view over the bay!), it's serene and relatively peaceful. If you like a rugged coastline, stay there a couple of days, and make sure to explore the bit between Ballinskelligs and Portmagee (another good hostel) - I walked a very long way there once, because there were no cars to hitch lifts with!!! But it didn't matter one bit, it was so beautiful.
Take the ferry from Portmagee to the Skelligs if you can - it really isn't to be missed!
Have always missed out on Dingle myself, but Tralee is really nice - Finnegan's Hostel is quirkily charming, and the staff really helpful!!!
So far I haven't seen much between Tralee and Doolin of interest (but then I've always been hitchhiking and tied to main roads), so maybe that would be the place to fast forward by bus (believe I've seen the big coaches take bikes, but better check).
Doolin is a comfortable base to explore the Burren from, and to go to the Aran Islands from. The Aille River Hostel is really cosy, and Karl the Pirate from Manchester who runs the place is always helpful and full of advice. It's popular, though, so book a couple of days ahead if you can. Otherwise there are two other hostels in Doolin, I think.
Make sure of a good map, when you go inland - the signs were a bit confusing last time I was there - my old mum and I got a bit lost somewhere between Lisdoonvarna and the Burren!
The Aran Islands are a must, but know what to expect. Inisheer can easily be seen in a day. Inishmore tends to be touristy and more expensive (don't, whatever you do, stay at Mainistir Hostel - it was the worst I ever tried, with unmade beds, small rooms, un-flushable toilets and light switches that gave electric shocks - the only attraction was the cook, who whilst cooking provided the most perfectly whistled rendition of Rachmaninov's 2nd piano concerto I have ever heard! Not that I've heard anyone else attempt it..)
Go for Inishmaan, the middle island; fewer crowds and just as many attractions. It may seem difficult to get to, but some of the ferries between Inisheer and Inishmore stop at Inishmaan even though it doesn't say so on the schedule - just make sure to check with the skipper. That isn't to say that Inishmore isn't worth a visit:) Everyone pays to visit Dun Aeonghus, but what they don't tell you is that the scramble up to Dun Eochlan is free, and while it may lack the cliffs, there's a great view - and substantially less chance of falling to your death!

Have a good time, and say hi to Glengarriff from me! I can highly recommend the Bantry Bay mussels served at the Blue Pool Bistro - I worked there in 2006, for a couple of weeks; the owners weren't very nice, but the food was delicious, and when I visited last summer the staff were friendlier. The best pub is Harrington's, and if you're ever in a tight spot, Billy the cab-driver (ask anyone, they all know him) is reliable and inexpensive, as well as a mine of information. The cheapest way to get to the botanical Garinish Island/Ilnacullin is probably from Ellen's Rock about a km outside the village along the Castletown road, not Blue Pool (tourist rip-off - though if you can do a convincing local accent they cut a bit off the price!), with old Kevin in the Lady Ellen. Tides can be a problem though.

What more can I say but enjoy Ireland!

These are just the kind of responses I was hoping for - thanks so much. I just watched the Rick Steves' Ireland video again and it made me a little nervous about all the hills - though I've ridden in Tuscany and Croatia, which are pretty hilly, too (but not pulling my own gear - the last two years with our BikeFridays and trailers were in more flatlands along rivers, etc.). I'm really going to look at hostels - even though we're past the " norm" in age (young retirees - 60). I'm excited to try Ireland - keep the ideas coming.

Just be prepared for rain! If you're happy about cycling in the rain, fine. If not, allow time for staying where you are until the weather improves.

If I had 5-6 weeks in Ireland, I really wouldn't plan it so much. Well probably you might have to phone ahead for accommodation to make sure you have somewhere to stay at weekends, given that you can't move a huge distance on a bike if you find a town that's full up for the weekend.

You could certainly cover a lot more if you wanted to. You could easily cover the whole west coast without being in a rush in that timescale. Then you could stop and hang around whenever you find somewhere you like, rather than planning to hang around everywhere on the way.

Killarney is just about the wettest place in Ireland and a huge tourist trap.

To miss either/both of Connemara and Donegal is a great shame. If you are visiting the Aran islands, Connemara is right next door, connected by a ferry. Don't forget that there is that ferry over the Shannon estuary so you don't have to go all the way to Limerick and back.

Yup, the hills can be off-putting, but remember that you can always stop to "admire the scenery"!

I've come across people of all ages staying at hostels, especially before and after the mad rush of visitors in July-August, so I wouldn't worry about feeling out of place. If a drunk and disorderly crowd of backpackers descend, there'll in most villages be an alternative place to stay. Most hostels have a "private" double room besides the dorms, and even though they cost more, you can usually still scrape a few euros off what you would have to give for the equivalent in a B&B or similar, and there will be the added pleasure of swapping tips with fellow adventurers in the common room.

May-June is weather-wise and landscape-wise a really good time to go! Half as much rain as in July-August, and almost as warm. See http://www.met.ie/climate/monthly-data.asp?Num=305 - But that's statistics! Things can change rapidly in the course of a day, so be prepared to take advantage of the flexibility you gain by travelling pre-high season. I must agree with Iviehoff (though planning is half the fun! All I seem to do these days is plan trips I can't afford to go on - and here I am, trying to plan someone else's! forgive me for being such an interfering so-and-so!), you really needn't set anything in concrete at so early a stage. You have the luxury of time to be able to play it by ear and inclination.

I've only ever seen Connemara across the bay from Inishmore (I usually run out of time and money at Galway!) - but go if you can! The landscape won't remain unspoiled for much longer; reportedly it's the next region to get hit by "development". Galway is a really pleasant place, too - I'm looking forward to exploring both these on my next foray.

Yes, Killarney can be a tad damp - but if you have a couple of days there, the clouds should lift at some point, and it will have been worth it! Being experienced travellers I trust you will be able to avoid the tourist traps, and enjoy the real pleasures of the town and surrounds. The mountains, lakes and forests are splendid, and there's lots of history if you're interested - try Ross Castle, for instance.

One last thought: when I took my first major hitchhike/backpacking trek up the west coast with a friend (late september, start october), a couple of the hostel owners, that we rang up to book from, offered to come and pick us up, should the final stretch prove too much for our sagging thumbs/blistered heels. We were lucky lift-wise, and never found real need of this service, but it was comforting to have as a last resort; so if you ever get really stuck, it's worth asking. I can't promise that they won't charge a fee, (especially as there are bikes/trailers involved) but they do have incentive to get you to your destination!

Good luck!

This has been so helpful - I'm not crazy about riding in the rain, but understand that's why Ireland is so green, so you go with it, or wait it out.
Thanks for the tip about Connemara - I had thought it was further north (more like near Donegal) - this should be an easy reach since we're planning to go the the Aran Islands. We may do Connemara instead of Ring of Kerry - unless we do a public bus trip around the Ring - just to see it.
More and more I'm thinking we won't plan a lot in advance - we'd prefer private rooms in hostels, which, I think, means reserving ahead, but maybe we can do just a bit of that and just go as far as we feel like instead of having too much of a plan - just a general one.
Ireland is so new to us that all of your suggestions are wonderful.

Following is an itinerary for a trip I planned for myself and 4 girlfriends to western Ireland in 2005. We all had a great time; maybe this will be of interest to you.

June 20 – Arrive at Shannon airport. Ride, taxi or bus 13 miles to Ennis. Overnight in Ennis. Ennis is the main town of County Clare (pop. 15,000). There will be sightseeing available—a friary and museum--and restaurants and pubs. Ennis is a quaint town and a center for Irish music. Nearby are an important early monastery, Quin Abbey, Dromoland Castle and the Craggaunowen Project, a recreation of early Irish life.

June 21 – Ennis to Kinvarra on the Clare coast. 24 miles. Accommodation in the Burren View Farmhouse, 3 miles from Kinvarra village. This is a nice ride, and can include some stops, or not, depending on energy levels. Kinvarra is a very beautiful little village on the coast. Our B&B is actually on the Doorus Peninsula, a particularly scenic location. Doorus is also an important location in the history of the “Irish Revival,” a literary movement headed by the poet Yeats in the early 1900’s.

June 22 – Burren loop trip. Accommodation at Burren View Farmhouse. Up to 50 miles. This can be a very full day of sightseeing on the Burren. The Burren is a unique natural limestone landscape. There are ancient stone dolmens from the Iron Age, evocative ancient Christian and castle ruins, unusual plants and flowers. There is an interesting perfumery using Burren plants which would be fun, and an indoor exhibit called “The Burren Exposure” to choose from.

June 23 - Kinvara to Galway City (pop 55,000). 27 miles. A pretty ride along the Clare coast. We will take in a forest park called “Coole Park,” the past home of Lady Gregory. Lady Gregory was a good friend of Yeats, and lots of literary types hung out there. The home is in ruins, but the park is meant to be beautiful. We will also go by Thoor Ballylee, a castle haunt of Yeats. We’ll have some time to hang out in Galway City. the last 10-12 miles of the ride into Galway City will be less than pleasant, because we’ll be on a main highway. This is about the only unpleasant riding of our entire trip.

June 24 – day in Galway City. Galway City is meant to be one of the youngest, most vibrant cities in Europe. The robust Irish economy has brought alot of young people here. The old part of the city is very quaint and interesting, and there should be plenty to see and do, including shopping.

June 25 – Galway to Roundstone. About 50 miles. Accommodation in Rushlake House with the Nee family in Roundstone. The ride is north past Lough Corrib to Oughterard, passing a few old castles, then turn west. The road travels through beautiful mountain scenery, then turns south to Roundstone on the coast. This is the heart of Connemara country, near the Twelve Ben Mountains. Parts of Connemara are in the Gaeltacht—where Irish is the main language, and signs will be in Irish only.

June 26 – Roundstone to Leenane. 40 miles. Leenane was the location for filming of the movie “The Field,” starring Richard Harris. The day’s riding choices include a loop ride along the coast, taking in a couple fishing villages and Ireland’s most beautiful beach. Some time can on a beach if the weather’s good, and either a route through Clifden (capital of Connemara) or a ride through the Inagh Valley past the Twelve Ben Mountains, both are totally spectacular. Kylemore Abbey, a particularly wonderful abbey among forested hills by a lake, is on route. Very beautiful and a major sightseeing destination. Leenane is a very small village.

June 27 – Leenane to Westport (pop. 4,250). 30 miles. Lodging in Cedar Lodge, Westport. This ride covers one of Ireland’s most scenic roads, from Leenane via Lough Doo and Delphi to Louisberg and Westport. It passes Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s highest mountain, and a pilgrimage destination for devout Catholics. Westport is West Ireland’s only planned town, laid out in a grid in the English style. It should be lively at night.

June 28 – Westport to Cong (pop 200). 38 miles. Lodging in Hazel Grove, Cong. Today’s ride will be on the east side of Lough Mask, a more fertile, gentle region compared to Connemara in Western Mayo and Galway. Cong is a quaint village on the edge of the lough. John Wayne’s movie “The Quiet Man” was filmed here, and a fair bit of tourism revolves around that. Sightseeing includes Cong Abbey, the exterior of Ashleigh Castle (now a fancy hotel off-limits to non-guests), a trip on the lake, and various ancient monuments. Cong is situated between Lough Mask and Lough Corrib, a beautiful location.

June 29 – Cong to Rossaveal. 32 miles. Ferry to Inishmaan. Accommodations at An Dun on Inishmman. A sauna is available. A ferry leaves Rossaveal at about 6:00 pm. The ferry ride to Inishmann is 40 minutes. Inishmaan is likely to be pretty quiet at night. The Arans are in the Gaeltacht (Irish language is main language). The crossing can be rough. Prepare the barf bags.

June 30 – Day on Aran Islands. One more night on Inishmaan at An Dun. Options include walking on Inishmaan, hopping between the islands for a quick view of each, or riding on Inishmaan, Inishmore or both. Inishmaan is only 5k long and 3k wide. The main sight is a huge stone fort from the Iron Age. Cycles can be taken on the ferry to the island, although walking is easier than cycling if you have a road bikeas the lanes are quite rough. The ferries do not take cars.

July 1 - Ferry to Doolin, ride to Miltown Malbay. 25 miles. Lodging at An Gleann, Miltown Malbay. Ferry over to Doolin is about 30 minutes. A ferry leaves at 10:00, and there should be several during the day. There is excellent opportunity for walking exploration around Doolin and the Cliffs. Cliffs of Moher are Europe’s highest cliffs and a major tourist draw. Miltown Malbay is on the coast, and it’s a scenic ride with good opportunities for pubs and music in Miltown if desired.

July 2 – return to Ennis. About 25-30 miles.
There are a couple pleasant routes to take across the Burren from Miltown to Ennis. Some ruins, and the village of Kilfenora with interesting high crosses are among the sites.

July 3 – Prepare to leave. Pack bikes, etc. I think there are enough opportunities for activities in and around Ennis that we will find plenty to do if we have extra time.

July 4 – Goodbye to Ireland.