Wasley has it nailed
Worked in the city centre for nine years and then visited the city on a regular basis after dark during my days of reviewing bands playing City Hall, The Mayfair, Riverside, Tiffany's, The Broken Doll, The Irish Centre and the two university sites.
Was back up there a month ago and whilst there have been changes, it still has the character that I remember it for. Took a couple of hours to tune back into the local accent, but as GF remarked, everyone's so friendly.
We're back in the North East in a couple of weeks time for a few days and will be taking a wander around the banks of the Tyne on the Newcastle side and maybe pay a return visit to The Baltic too. As the last visit ended up being a shopping one in Eldon Square and on Northumberland Street, it's time for a bit more culture this time around.
Would agree with Ian's comments about driving in Newcastle - tried on several occasions to take formerly well-used routes across the city and would allege that some muppet has changed the traffic system in the city centre!
One word of advice though - don't wear anything with red and white stripes on it or mention Sunderland in a pub. The old rivalries still prevail - one of the reason's why members of University of Sunderland Mountaineering Club never wore their club shirts when heading for the climbing wall in Eldon Square on a Friday night...