Laugavegur - FAQ

1. As I am running out of time, I should hit the trail immediately when arriving by bus in Landmannalaugar (i.e. at 1pm). The first campsite is some 5 hours from Landmannnalaugar. Should not be a problem because not getting dark in July. Any views?

2. Some folks complain that the trail is overrun. How would you describe the volume of hikers? Do you always see people after/before you, all the time?

3. Is is true that you must camp next to huts because the trail is located in nature reserve? Do I need to reserve the campsites? How crowded are the campsites? Distance between tents; distance from the hut? Any privacy? Is the entire trail inside the nature reserve?

4. I would like to use boots with lowheight cuff (gore-tex). The trail looks dry (except some river/creek crossings; see below). Any views?

5. I am trying to carry as little as possible but cannot avoid creek/river crossing shoes. Tevas are probably too heavy (1/2 kg) but neoprene socks with removable soles inside the socks should work. Any views?

6. Where can you buy (MSR) gas cartridges/dry food in Reykjavik?

7. Do I need to bring mosquito repellent on the trail (in July)?

8. Is there drinking water available on the trail (like everywhere in Scandinavia)? Any need to carry water, in particular on the 1st day? I will bring water pills in any case.

9. How “dangerous” or "challenging" is the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá bridge over the canyon, between the last campsite and Torsmörk (Day 4 from north to south)?

10. Some folks complain that the 1:100.000 map is too small; should ideally be 1:50.000. Any views?

Thks a lot in advance.

1. no problem if you are used to walking. The walking times are of course for an average person without breaks. There will be enough light. You will probably want to do some photo breaks.

2. I'd say 20-30 persons each way each day when I walked there last august. But much much more the last bit down to Landmannalaugar. (Daytrippers) Depends on weekends/weather.

3. The southernmost part is in a nature reserve at least. You are still requested/required to stay at the campsites for this particular trail because of the heavy traffic. No need to reserve unless you want to sleep inside, you pay at the huts. Most cramped at Emstrur. Really you are more concerned with finding a big enough flat soft spot than the distance to others. You are unlikely to have other tents close by on all sides. Noise from the creek and the wind are likely to obscure any noise you make when having sex ;-)

4. Trail mostly bare gravel/ash/rocks. Some places may be slippery. Choose solid boots with good support and good grip.

5. I used sandals; was ok. Neoprene socks with soles sounds good. Uneven rocks in the rivers.

6. Gas stations, sports shops, some convenience stores. There is also a truck shop at Landmannalaugar (limited selection).

7. Don't think so. I never used any. May be some at Þorsmörk if it's not to cold I suppose.

8. Drinking water is generally available in Iceland. You may want to carry some drinking water over Hrafntinnusker (the mountain the first 1½ days), as many sources up there stinks of sulphur. But you'll find some melting water in a pinch. Don't think water pills has any real use on the trail.

9. I walked up there. It was slippery, but I never saw any big deal. Still, I had to go help up a French girl who was somewhat scared. There is a rope to hold on to, the path is completely even at a 30-45° incline. Basically no problem at all, just a long way down if you slip and miss the bridge.

10. The 1:100000 map is ok. The landscape is open and you can often see a large area. The one place the map wasn't sufficient, (looking for the former icecave on Hrafntinnusker in fog,) 1:50000 wouldn't have helped any.

Thks for yr responses.

This looks pretty scary:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaupfelag/629705708/

1. If you look at the official stats it is actually about 150 a day averaged across the main season, and therefore probably 200+ in the highest of the high season. But precisely because of the long daylight hours, and the possibility that you can be half a day staggered from someone else, it doesn't feel busy, except where you are in the area where day-trippers are doing short day-walks. I've stood at points on/near the path and at times had more than 20 walkers in view, though after 15 mins they're all out of sight again.

2. Actually it is the northern end that is in a nature reserve, the Fjallabak nature reserve. L is more or less in the middle of it, and you are not out of it until a couple of hours beyond Hrafntinnusker. I can't find any evidence that Thorsmork has protected status. It appears nowhere on Umhverfisstofnun's list of protected areas. http://english.ust.is/National-Parks/Protectedareas/ Certainly wild camping is strongly discouraged in the southern highlands, especially along the trail because of the heavy footfall, but as far as I can see is only actually illegal in protected areas. But it is also illegal to camp within the vicinity of an organised camp ground. If the weather turns very nasty and you are forced to camp in a place, no one is going to criticise you for that. The advantage of camping in the campgrounds is access to water and toilets. Pollution from human waste is becoming a problem in that part of Iceland and please don't contribute to making it worse.

L campsite is often busy. Th campsites get very busy and noisy at merchants holiday weekend, the weekend attached to the first monday in August, and possibly some other party weekends. In between, you won't have a problem.

1. I've taken my 3-yr-old daughter along worse than that.

Iviehoff indicated that the Landmannnalaugar campsite is often busy (as expected). As a result, I decided to hit the trail immediately upon my arrival by RE bus.

I had a look for the map for the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, which confirms that you could camp everywhere beyond Hrafntinnusker (if coming from the North).

So the steep portion is not a big deal? I assume Iviehoff has walked the trail.

1. Not a problem. You could also merge two days into one if you are up to it, e.g. on day 2, walk Hrafntinnusker-Álftavatn, take a break for 2 hours and then walk Álftavatn-Emstrur.
   2., 3., I agree with "iviehoff"
2. Not a problem
3. Take the Tevas, I love to take off my hiking shoes after have been walking all day plus uneven rocks in the rivers like steinarh says
4. I have never used mosquito repellant in Iceland, don't think it works on the flies here :)
5. Drinking water widely available I recall, just ask the wardens at each hut about it. It is probably hardest to find at the first part (L to H)
6. I hiked the route in 2007 and I don't remember anything very challenging. There might have been a portion where I took a deep breath but there are ropes to help you were it is very steep.
7. Don't know.

I assume Iviehoff has walked the trail

Not all of it. I've walked some of it, and also cycled a route that is closely parallel to it, meeting it in several places.

Iviehoff, did you pass the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá?

I may be too worried about it after Steinarh said above that "French girl was scared" and that "just a long way down if you slip"...

I'm planning this trek during the 3rd week of July. What's the protocol for treating water in Iceland. On the L trek, is a water filter needed, or to people just fill up straight from a stream (like in Patagonia). Is that true for everywhere in Iceland?

BTW, that "scary" pic doesn't look too bad. The trail seems flat, at least 2 feet wide (before steep slope) and there seems to be a chain railing on the left. I suppose if it was super muddy it might not be pleasant, but it doesn't make me think twice. Even if you don't use poles, the railing should suffice if you slip.
-matt

Having hiked this trail over 50 times as a guide, let me give you my opinion.

1. You can easily hit the trail up to Hrafntinnusker straight from the bus upon arrival at LML. However you will not be able to enjoy the view and much of LML landscape if you take off immediately nor can you soak in the geothermal pool there. Remember to sign the route book at the hut prior to your departure.

2. It depends on the time of year and what your perception of overrun is. The heaviest traffic is definitively in July. I have had tours where I was looking at the heels of other hikers all day long and days where I have hardly seen anybody.

3. You are required to camp only on designated campsites within the nature reserve (LML - to about halfway between Hrafntinnusker and Alftavatn). Camping anywhere else than there, is illegal. You are requested to camp only on campsites outside the reserve, due to fragile landscape and to cater for the preservation of the land. Also wardens watch the traffic on the trail for statistics and to see if everybody are making it between the spots. After all there have been a number of fatalities on the trail, so this is done for security purposes as well. Campsite distance is based on how far away a green spot is from the hut, from far away to close. Tightest spot is Emstrur and somebody will definitely hear you having sex there or snoring, although the stream might conceal some noise.

4. I would definitely not recommend wearing low cut hiking shoes. Pick shoes that support your ankle otherwise you might run the risk of twisting it, thereby perhaps ruining your trip.

5. I would pick the Tevas as you can use them on the campsite in the evening/afternoon when you are not hiking.

6. MSR fuel (white gas) is only available as far as I know in Reykjavik at the outdoor stores and some gas stations. Freeze dried food is available at the outdoor stores, but I would recommend bringing dry food with you from wherever you are coming as the prices are insane on freeze dried food. Other dry food can be purchased relatively cheaply at the local grocery store (e.g. pasta, rice etc).

7. No

8. Water quality has deteriorated over the last 15 years or so with more people hiking the trail. Unfortunately people don't always think when the take a dump in the nature and do it too close to water resources, thereby polluting it. I have found number of used toilet papers and poop literally within couple of meters of running water. I instruct all my travelers to fill up water at the huts and not to fill up water on the way from streams unless walking 4-500 meters upstream to get clean water (another reason to camp at the designated camp sites).

9. Its not very challenging part, I have not had any problems with the 500+ travelers that I have taken on that tour yet.

10. 1:100 000 map is adequate

Heimsfari, thks for yr responses.

1. Yes, I will miss LML but have no time + hate crowds.

2. Most folks walk from north to south so should see less people if walking the same direction?

3. The ankle support is heavily debated. I was mainly interested in hearing views about the protection that mid-cut hiking shoes provide (wet surface, ankle-high vegetation etc.).

4. Any views on neoprene socks with removable soles inside the socks (400gr lighter than Tevas)?

5. You saw above, "French girl was scared" and that "just a long way down if you slip"... ? Any way to by-pass the canyon if too challenging?

Thks in advance.

1. Its not very challenging part, I have not had any problems with the 500+ travelers that I have taken on that tour yet.

1. You saw above, "French girl was scared" and that "just a long way down if you slip"... ? Any way to by-pass the canyon if too challenging?

No doubt you could but not to any advantage. You'd make a long detour over pathless unsignpost mountainsides to find a place to ford the river upstream.

Have you done any mountain walking before? "A long way down if you slip" is a common situation when walking in mountain areas. Loose rock producing slippery walking surfaces is another common mountain walking situation, and is particularly common where there is recent volcanic activity. I frequently feel a bit scared too in such situations too. But if this kind of stuff freaks you out, should you be doing such a trek? If you haven't done any proper mountain walking before, then I don't think this trek is the one to cut your teeth on.

Perhaps try the Hveravellir-Hvitarnes trek instead, which is mainly over flat ground. http://www.nat.is/travelguideeng/hiking_hvitarnes_hveravellir_map.htm

Iviehoff, I have done a fair amount of mountain walking in Alps, including ski touring, but have always avoided risky ventures. However, never heard the expression ("a long way down if you slip") nor ever came across with a such a situation. I am only trying to carry out my risk assessment. Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.

But, Iviehoff, did you walk the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá?

After completing the trail, I am now responding to my own questions.

1. As I am running out of time, I should hit the trail immediately when arriving by bus in Landmannalaugar (i.e. at 1pm). The first campsite is some 5 hours from Landmannnalaugar. Should not be a problem because not getting dark in July. Any views?

Good idea to leave the circus in LML.

1. Some folks complain that the trail is overrun. How would you describe the volume of hikers? Do you always see people after/before you, all the time?

Not bad at all if you leave early (say, at 8am at the latest).

1. Is is true that you must camp next to huts because the trail is located in nature reserve? Do I need to reserve the campsites? How crowded are the campsites? Distance between tents; distance from the hut? Any privacy? Is the entire trail inside the nature reserve?

Wild camping would have been difficult (except on the last day).

1. I would like to use boots with lowheight cuff (gore-tex). The trail looks dry (except some river/creek crossings; see below). Any views?

Lowheight was OK.

1. I am trying to carry as little as possible but cannot avoid creek/river crossing shoes. Tevas are probably too heavy (1/2 kg) but neoprene socks with removable soles inside the socks should work. Any views?

Neoprene socks worked well.

1. Where can you buy (MSR) gas cartridges/dry food in Reykjavik?

You can buy cartridges everywhere.

1. Do I need to bring mosquito repellent on the trail (in July)?

No.

1. Is there drinking water available on the trail (like everywhere in Scandinavia)? Any need to carry water, in particular on the 1st day? I will bring water pills in any case.

No water on day 1 to 2. No reason to carry water on days 3 and 4.

1. How “dangerous” or "challenging" is the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá bridge over the canyon, between the last campsite and Torsmörk (Day 4 from north to south)?

Easy, really easy.

1. Some folks complain that the 1:100.000 map is too small; should ideally be 1:50.000. Any views?

1:100.000 is fine.

As this is a FAQ thread, I´d like to share some experience. I have done the trek twice:

1. Landmannalaugar is indeed a bit busy, but also very beautiful and you can spend one or two days there just hiking the many trails around there. In 2009 there were big grills for everyone to use, so it was nice to bring some nice meat and have a good dinner the first evening before you start. When I was there in 2010 the grills were gone...
   Also, it is perfectly fine to start from Landmannalaugar at 1 pm the first day, although the first day can get quite challenging, due to frequent fogs, especially in early July. If there is snow and fog, you might not be able to see where the trail is and you might get lost...

2. I have seen much busier treks. If you meet a big group, you can just try to walk faster than them, or lag behind on purpose, so they don´t spoil the view. The good thing about the long days is that you can take your time and admire the view.

3. Please always camp by the campsites. Some people prefer to save some money by camping in other places, but this is just bad for the fragile environment and your own safety.

4. Light hiking boots are ok. The problems I have had have been more with volcanic ash and sand entering my shoes, if they are not high enough.

5. First time I crossed the rivers with flipflops. I do not recommend it, my friend lost one of hers:) The second time I crossed it in the simplest possible shoes made of cotton fabric and a rubber sole. They cost 300 ISK at the flea market in Reykjavik. This is not the best way, but I decided not to carry the sandals. Sandals are OK. Crossing the rivers is a cold experience and by far the most challenging thing on the trek.

6. I would not drink water from the glacial rivers of course. There are some streams and if there is nice snow, you can melt it and drink it. I don´t think you need purifying tablets. But I think it is perfectly fine to just carry some water from the huts.

7. Just hold on to that rope!

Hi All,

I am planning to drive to either end of the Laugavegur trail as the car rental works out cheaper than the bus fares. (two of us cost about 200pounds for a return)

Would be okay to park the car at Landmannaugar and do a round trip in 5 days?

I am planning hike from the 8th to the 12th of September.

Any advice please?

This is my first time hiking but I am average build and been training for half marathons...

Regards,

Daniel

and do a round trip in 5 days

What round trip? Only the Landmannalaugar-Thorsmork-Skogar route is well marked with a well trodden visible footpath underfoot, and it is nothing like a round trip. Other walking routes in the southern highlands require considerable route-finding expertise with only intermittently visible paths underfoot and occasional signposts to help you.

two of us cost about 200pounds for a return

But ordinarily you only need a single, though you also need a ticket back from where you arrive - Thorsmork or Skogar. You do realise that you have to hire a 4wd to drive to Landmannalaugar. I find it hard to believe that the bus is more expensive than 5 days hire of a 4wd.

This is my first time hiking but I am average build and been training for half marathons

It isn't your super-fitness that is so important, it is your knowledge of how to find your way and stay alive in the mountains in potentially very unpleasant weather. I would advise against doing the hike so late in the season if you do not have prior experience of winter mountain hiking. I would advise even more strongly against going off the main marked path in that season if you don't have mountain way-finding experience.

Hi Ivieoff,

Thanks for your comments.

What I meant was Landmannaugar to Thorsmork then back to Landmannaugar again. So parking the car at Landmannaugar. Do you think this is mad during the end of the season?

I have pretty well booked almost everything except the buses/car rental :( I too find it hard to believe that the bus fare cost 37400 Kronas for 2 x Reykjavik to Landmannaugar (12500 Kronas) and 2 x Porsmork to Reykjavik (6200 Kronas). Car rental cost 57 euros/day for their smallest 4 x 4...

I am planning todo the Laugavegur hike only, nothing more. Wont go off any main marked path. Is there anything that I need to watch out during the end of the season?

Regards,

Daniel

What I meant was Landmannaugar to Thorsmork then back to Landmannaugar again

Is that really how you want to spend your holiday time? If you take bus to L, walk in 3 days, and bus out of T, then at the reduced frequencies of bus services during September probably that takes 4 days in all, though given you were planning to walk it twice in 5 days, maybe you can get into T before the bus leaves and get in and out in just 3 days (remembering that you won' t be leaving L until lunchtime on the first day, and it is very scenic around L so it is tricky to march out at full walking speed with so many interesting things to look at, and the desire to do that warm swim in the stream).

Is there anything that I need to watch out during the end of the season?

The later you get, the greater the risk of snow. There can be light snow at Landmannalaugar itself (600m) in early Sept, and when you go up the hill (to as high as about 1100m on the trail) there can be a lot of snow. You can also be lucky and have nice weather...

Car rental cost 57 euros/day for their smallest 4 x 4

xrates.com says the x-rate is currently 148/Euro, so that is about 8400 K/day, which is cheaper than the bus for 4 days but more expensive than the bus for 5 or 6 days.

At the end of the day, you can do the trek, walk it just one way, and it costs you the bus fares. You can also choose to spend some extra time in L or T, which are nice places to visit, if the weather isn't horrible (a big if), or walk on from T to Skogar, which is exceedingly worthwhile, and it won't cost you any more, even if you have spent 6-7 days over it all.

Thank you Iviehoff,

We have decided to go one way. Like you said, spend some time in L first then walk to Hrafntinnusker and stay the night there.

On the second day, we planned wake up early and start walking to Álftavatn, rest abit then walk-on to Emstrur and stay there.

Third day will be as normal, getting to Þórsmörk and the following day to Skogar.

I will take note to prepare for more snow (better hiking boots hiking pole walking stick waterproof gear). Thanks :)

On the same matter, from your experience is it easier to hike from L to T/Skogar or T/Skogar to L? I know from the bus schedule point of view it is better to go L to Skogar as the bus picks you up in the evening at Skogar...

I tried calling the Hut accommodation centre and they told me to call back in September. Do you think it is a must to book the huts in advance this late in the season?

Regards,

Daniel

Do you think it is a must to book the huts in advance this late in the season?

It always used to be easy to get in the huts without booking late in the season. Generally speaking organised tours were no operating after about 20 August. But the buses used to stop running some time about 28-31 August. Now they are running the buses later in the season, this forum is now getting a lot more questions about doing the hike in early September. So things might be changing.

is it easier to hike from L to T/Skogar or T/Skogar to L

S to N is, on balance more uphill with a net height gain of about 600m, but apart from that I can't think there is much difference. N to S is a lot more popular, but I wonder to what degree that is conditioned by naming the trail in that direction.