Laugavegur - FAQ

Heimsfari, thks for yr responses.

1. Yes, I will miss LML but have no time + hate crowds.

2. Most folks walk from north to south so should see less people if walking the same direction?

3. The ankle support is heavily debated. I was mainly interested in hearing views about the protection that mid-cut hiking shoes provide (wet surface, ankle-high vegetation etc.).

4. Any views on neoprene socks with removable soles inside the socks (400gr lighter than Tevas)?

5. You saw above, "French girl was scared" and that "just a long way down if you slip"... ? Any way to by-pass the canyon if too challenging?

Thks in advance.

1. Its not very challenging part, I have not had any problems with the 500+ travelers that I have taken on that tour yet.

1. You saw above, "French girl was scared" and that "just a long way down if you slip"... ? Any way to by-pass the canyon if too challenging?

No doubt you could but not to any advantage. You'd make a long detour over pathless unsignpost mountainsides to find a place to ford the river upstream.

Have you done any mountain walking before? "A long way down if you slip" is a common situation when walking in mountain areas. Loose rock producing slippery walking surfaces is another common mountain walking situation, and is particularly common where there is recent volcanic activity. I frequently feel a bit scared too in such situations too. But if this kind of stuff freaks you out, should you be doing such a trek? If you haven't done any proper mountain walking before, then I don't think this trek is the one to cut your teeth on.

Perhaps try the Hveravellir-Hvitarnes trek instead, which is mainly over flat ground. http://www.nat.is/travelguideeng/hiking_hvitarnes_hveravellir_map.htm

Iviehoff, I have done a fair amount of mountain walking in Alps, including ski touring, but have always avoided risky ventures. However, never heard the expression ("a long way down if you slip") nor ever came across with a such a situation. I am only trying to carry out my risk assessment. Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.

But, Iviehoff, did you walk the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá?

After completing the trail, I am now responding to my own questions.

1. As I am running out of time, I should hit the trail immediately when arriving by bus in Landmannalaugar (i.e. at 1pm). The first campsite is some 5 hours from Landmannnalaugar. Should not be a problem because not getting dark in July. Any views?

Good idea to leave the circus in LML.

1. Some folks complain that the trail is overrun. How would you describe the volume of hikers? Do you always see people after/before you, all the time?

Not bad at all if you leave early (say, at 8am at the latest).

1. Is is true that you must camp next to huts because the trail is located in nature reserve? Do I need to reserve the campsites? How crowded are the campsites? Distance between tents; distance from the hut? Any privacy? Is the entire trail inside the nature reserve?

Wild camping would have been difficult (except on the last day).

1. I would like to use boots with lowheight cuff (gore-tex). The trail looks dry (except some river/creek crossings; see below). Any views?

Lowheight was OK.

1. I am trying to carry as little as possible but cannot avoid creek/river crossing shoes. Tevas are probably too heavy (1/2 kg) but neoprene socks with removable soles inside the socks should work. Any views?

Neoprene socks worked well.

1. Where can you buy (MSR) gas cartridges/dry food in Reykjavik?

You can buy cartridges everywhere.

1. Do I need to bring mosquito repellent on the trail (in July)?

No.

1. Is there drinking water available on the trail (like everywhere in Scandinavia)? Any need to carry water, in particular on the 1st day? I will bring water pills in any case.

No water on day 1 to 2. No reason to carry water on days 3 and 4.

1. How “dangerous” or "challenging" is the steep portion of the trail before the Syðri-Emstruá bridge over the canyon, between the last campsite and Torsmörk (Day 4 from north to south)?

Easy, really easy.

1. Some folks complain that the 1:100.000 map is too small; should ideally be 1:50.000. Any views?

1:100.000 is fine.

As this is a FAQ thread, I´d like to share some experience. I have done the trek twice:

1. Landmannalaugar is indeed a bit busy, but also very beautiful and you can spend one or two days there just hiking the many trails around there. In 2009 there were big grills for everyone to use, so it was nice to bring some nice meat and have a good dinner the first evening before you start. When I was there in 2010 the grills were gone...
   Also, it is perfectly fine to start from Landmannalaugar at 1 pm the first day, although the first day can get quite challenging, due to frequent fogs, especially in early July. If there is snow and fog, you might not be able to see where the trail is and you might get lost...

2. I have seen much busier treks. If you meet a big group, you can just try to walk faster than them, or lag behind on purpose, so they don´t spoil the view. The good thing about the long days is that you can take your time and admire the view.

3. Please always camp by the campsites. Some people prefer to save some money by camping in other places, but this is just bad for the fragile environment and your own safety.

4. Light hiking boots are ok. The problems I have had have been more with volcanic ash and sand entering my shoes, if they are not high enough.

5. First time I crossed the rivers with flipflops. I do not recommend it, my friend lost one of hers:) The second time I crossed it in the simplest possible shoes made of cotton fabric and a rubber sole. They cost 300 ISK at the flea market in Reykjavik. This is not the best way, but I decided not to carry the sandals. Sandals are OK. Crossing the rivers is a cold experience and by far the most challenging thing on the trek.

6. I would not drink water from the glacial rivers of course. There are some streams and if there is nice snow, you can melt it and drink it. I don´t think you need purifying tablets. But I think it is perfectly fine to just carry some water from the huts.

7. Just hold on to that rope!

Hi All,

I am planning to drive to either end of the Laugavegur trail as the car rental works out cheaper than the bus fares. (two of us cost about 200pounds for a return)

Would be okay to park the car at Landmannaugar and do a round trip in 5 days?

I am planning hike from the 8th to the 12th of September.

Any advice please?

This is my first time hiking but I am average build and been training for half marathons...

Regards,

Daniel

and do a round trip in 5 days

What round trip? Only the Landmannalaugar-Thorsmork-Skogar route is well marked with a well trodden visible footpath underfoot, and it is nothing like a round trip. Other walking routes in the southern highlands require considerable route-finding expertise with only intermittently visible paths underfoot and occasional signposts to help you.

two of us cost about 200pounds for a return

But ordinarily you only need a single, though you also need a ticket back from where you arrive - Thorsmork or Skogar. You do realise that you have to hire a 4wd to drive to Landmannalaugar. I find it hard to believe that the bus is more expensive than 5 days hire of a 4wd.

This is my first time hiking but I am average build and been training for half marathons

It isn't your super-fitness that is so important, it is your knowledge of how to find your way and stay alive in the mountains in potentially very unpleasant weather. I would advise against doing the hike so late in the season if you do not have prior experience of winter mountain hiking. I would advise even more strongly against going off the main marked path in that season if you don't have mountain way-finding experience.

Hi Ivieoff,

Thanks for your comments.

What I meant was Landmannaugar to Thorsmork then back to Landmannaugar again. So parking the car at Landmannaugar. Do you think this is mad during the end of the season?

I have pretty well booked almost everything except the buses/car rental :( I too find it hard to believe that the bus fare cost 37400 Kronas for 2 x Reykjavik to Landmannaugar (12500 Kronas) and 2 x Porsmork to Reykjavik (6200 Kronas). Car rental cost 57 euros/day for their smallest 4 x 4...

I am planning todo the Laugavegur hike only, nothing more. Wont go off any main marked path. Is there anything that I need to watch out during the end of the season?

Regards,

Daniel

What I meant was Landmannaugar to Thorsmork then back to Landmannaugar again

Is that really how you want to spend your holiday time? If you take bus to L, walk in 3 days, and bus out of T, then at the reduced frequencies of bus services during September probably that takes 4 days in all, though given you were planning to walk it twice in 5 days, maybe you can get into T before the bus leaves and get in and out in just 3 days (remembering that you won' t be leaving L until lunchtime on the first day, and it is very scenic around L so it is tricky to march out at full walking speed with so many interesting things to look at, and the desire to do that warm swim in the stream).

Is there anything that I need to watch out during the end of the season?

The later you get, the greater the risk of snow. There can be light snow at Landmannalaugar itself (600m) in early Sept, and when you go up the hill (to as high as about 1100m on the trail) there can be a lot of snow. You can also be lucky and have nice weather...

Car rental cost 57 euros/day for their smallest 4 x 4

xrates.com says the x-rate is currently 148/Euro, so that is about 8400 K/day, which is cheaper than the bus for 4 days but more expensive than the bus for 5 or 6 days.

At the end of the day, you can do the trek, walk it just one way, and it costs you the bus fares. You can also choose to spend some extra time in L or T, which are nice places to visit, if the weather isn't horrible (a big if), or walk on from T to Skogar, which is exceedingly worthwhile, and it won't cost you any more, even if you have spent 6-7 days over it all.

Thank you Iviehoff,

We have decided to go one way. Like you said, spend some time in L first then walk to Hrafntinnusker and stay the night there.

On the second day, we planned wake up early and start walking to Álftavatn, rest abit then walk-on to Emstrur and stay there.

Third day will be as normal, getting to Þórsmörk and the following day to Skogar.

I will take note to prepare for more snow (better hiking boots hiking pole walking stick waterproof gear). Thanks :)

On the same matter, from your experience is it easier to hike from L to T/Skogar or T/Skogar to L? I know from the bus schedule point of view it is better to go L to Skogar as the bus picks you up in the evening at Skogar...

I tried calling the Hut accommodation centre and they told me to call back in September. Do you think it is a must to book the huts in advance this late in the season?

Regards,

Daniel