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Iceland in November

We just returned from the land of Fire and Ice. I have to admit Iceland was not on my list of places to see before I die. However, we decided if we were ever going to go to this notoriously expensive destination, now was the time. The exchange rate is very favorable right now. I am so glad we did. I have traveled to many countries and Iceland is the most beautiful so far.
From the moon like lava fields to the snow covered mountains, there are really no words to describe the jaw dropping, awe inspiring beauty of the place. Magnificent waterfalls too numerous to count. The contrasting white sea foam washing up on the windswept black sand beach at Vik. The gentle and comically stout Viking horses that must out number the people on this island continent. Watching mischievous seals frolic among black streaked blue-tinted icebergs floating in a lagoon at Jokulsarlon. I could go on and on but my words would never do it justice.
We have already decided we will visit this astonishingly amazing place again.

Tips and info:
· Don’t bother exchanging a lot of money. Plastic is happily accepted everywhere.
· Layer, Layers, Layers! We went 11/23/08 – 11/27/08 and were comfortable in 3 layers under a wind and waterproof outer shell.
· We brought some dietary staples with us. It was not necessary but cheap and familiar. One look at fish and lunchmeat on the breakfast buffet and you will be grateful for breakfast bars. We spent a lot of time in the car. Protein bars and trail mix were nice to have when the distance to the next gas station was unknown.
· If you must have a top sheet to sleep, bring your own. Even the Hilton Nordica in Reykjavik does not use them. Instead the down duvets are stuffed into a sheet like cover which, I assume, is changed and washed between guests.
· If you go in winter you need Ice Cleats to stretch onto the bottom of your boots. Spray from the waterfalls freezes on the pathways and stairs. Anything wet freezes overnight, including parking lots. It is not called Iceland for nothing.
· I would recommend renting a car over taking a tour. We enjoyed taking our time at points of interest while tour groups were rushed in and out. Of course there was only 5 and half hours of sunlight while we were visiting. The tour schedule may be more generous during the summer when the sun is up most of the day.
· If you rent a car, spring for a GPS. However, I would recommend a reliable road map as a supplement. Our GPS chip was over a year old and got us into trouble a few times. We ordered ours from Amazon.com. It had the best reviews.
· If you go in winter, even as early as November, stick to the major paved roads. We were traveling from Gulfoss waterfall to Reykjavik. Our GPS sent us on gravel road 365. We rented a 4-wheel drive but when the road is covered in 3 inches of ice 4 wheel drive is useless without chains on your tires. Very scary.
· Hallgrimskirkja Church in Reykjavik is currently under renovation and completely encased in scaffolding.
· The view from “The Pearl” was worth it. However, the entrance fee to the Saga Museum was a waste of time and money.
· Rauforholshellir Lava Tube is pretty hard to find. Without our GPS we would never have found it. The ceiling has collapsed in 3 places right at the entrance. You will need more than a headlamp to explore the length of the cave.
· Don’t get your heart set on seeing the Aurora Borealis. We had 3 very clear nights way away from city lights. No solar storms = No light show. Disappointing.
· Like most of Europe, Iceland loves a round about. Don’t be a Clark Griswold. In the cities, stay in the outside lane for easy exiting unless you want to play out the scene from European vacation. Rural round abouts are a piece of cake.
· Cold ceramic and hot water = Disaster. I forgot this simple rule and foolishly took Jerome our Travelocity gnome into the Blue Lagoon and he shattered. Oh well, at least he began his journey to Valhalla in his homeland. For those Norse mythology sticklers, I realize Jerome did not exactly perish in combat, but I choose to believe the Valkyries came to get him anyway.
· You do not have to remove your shoes at Keflavik airport security.
· Coming home – You will have to reclaim your checked luggage and take it through customs.
· Don’t expect the locals to be particularly friendly or helpful. It is not that they are rude per say. They are very independent and expect the same from you. Most locals speak or at least understand English – especially in the service industry.

Helpful websites:
Weather forecast:
http://www.mbl.is/mm/frettir/vedur/?en=1

Lodging:
http://www.hotelranga.is/
Beautiful hotel in Hella on the way to Vik.
http://www.northernlightinn.is/inside.htm
15 minutes from Keflavik International airport and the only hotel near the
Blue Lagoon.

Transportation:
http://www.simnet.is/carrentalss/
We got a Nissan Qashqai and loved it.

Map:
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Iceland-ITMB-Travel-Reference/dp/1553412451/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1228596019&sr=8-3

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1

very helpful report - thanks

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2

Thanks for the report. It was very helpful. I am taking a trip to Iceland in one week and want to follow up on some of your comments - particularly about the driving.

What was the driving like in Iceland in the winter? Was it extremely difficult? Were there a lot of whiteouts? Where can you get on just the paved roads, as you suggest? Is it possible in one week to rent a 4x4 and drive around the entire country (ring road), or is this only possible in the summer?

Thanks.

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Nice to read! Glad you enjoyed it.
I had a similar experience; a volleyball tournament brought me to Iceland in April 2007 (Iceland was not particularly high on my list, but it was on my list :-)) and I attached two weeks of holidaying to that weekend. Never regretted it, it's indeed one of the most beautiful countries I've ever seen in the world, only Bolivia compares. (And in a very different way, safaris in Africa are also jaw dropping.)
I drove the ring road clockwise from Reykjavik and I can't count how often my jaw litterally dropped from yet another stunning scenery / view. And I was lucky to see the northern lights too, that was a major experience in my life.

I thought the locals were really friendly and helpful, however, you need some time to get through to them. They're a bit distant at first. I guess the nature of us Dutch is somewhat the same, a bit 'blunt' and direct... perhaps we understood one another...
what I found the hardest part though was to meet any people at all! The country is so empty and there are hardly any cafes or other public places, except the ones attached to gas stations, and those are not very thrilling. So the only people I spoke to really were the owners of hostels and some of the gas station employees. And some more people in Reykjavik and Akureyri and they were all very friendly, witty and spoke excellent English (at least better than most Dutch).

I also want to go back some other time. At a time when the puffins are there.

Jesse923: check out my website, it lists some more tips about driving in Iceland, and websites with up-to-date info on the weather and road conditions (updated every hour for the ring road).
I think in your case the daylight is really an issue you should keep an eye on. I don't think driving in the dark would be a nice experience in that foreign land with all the cold and ice and emptiness. I was sometimes a bit spooked in the highlands (between Borgarnes and Akureyri) in the daytime... no cell phone reception... but then again I am used to driving only in rather flat countries without much snow.


Travel tales, tips, photos and videos on my website (Europe, Asia, Latin America, Africa)
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Hi,
I just read your post about Iceland. A group of 6 of us are going - we'll be there 5 days. You have a lot of great suggestions. I have a couple of questions that I thought you might be willing to answer though. What are the best things to do while we're there? Can we hike any where in the winter - mid January? I saw that you didn't see the Northern Lights - we hope to see them but wondered where the best place to view them might be? We're staying in Reykjavik but have rented a van so we'll be mobile. Anything you can suggest as top don't misses, we'd be very appreciative. Thanks - if you can help

Edited by: lsnyder5

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