21 DAY turkey trip report

i just got back from 21 days in Turkey so I want to post three three reports. This trip took many weeks to plan, but I couldn't have done it without the huge support of sarikanarya. She answered all my questions with more than enough information and helped me work up an itinerary. I also read many other peoples reports of their trips as well, which I strongly recommend. This is part one.
After stopping in Madrid for two days to see the Bosch exhibit, We arrived early Saturday morning , Sept. 10, 2016, at Istanbul airport. getting through passport and baggage claim was a breeze. We had to wait three hours in the terminal. I strongly recommend ear plugs and eye covers for all trips for this occasion. Arrived Keyseri and rented a car. there are five rental agencies right there in the airport. Very simple. Drove to Goremme and stayed at Karadut Cave hotel. All the places we stayed were airbnb. A great place. A real cave room that was the biggest room we stayed in the whole trip. Drove off to the open air museum. If you are staying two weeks in Turkey, get the TURKEY MUSEUM PASS for 185 TL. it is good for two weeks and well worth it. If you are staying longer, get the local Capadocia pass for three days, then, the two week one. Spent three hours till dusk then also wandered over to the other side across the road where you could wander all you wanted. Got some great pictures at sunset looking over the valley. Went to the Pumpkin restaurant, recommended by our host. We liked it because it was just up the main road near the mosque and away from the busy part of town. Very quiet. Wonderful food. We went back the next night as well. Got up at 4 am the next morning for a ballon trip with Turkiye balloons, which is one of the oldest and most reputable companies. $110 per person. Arranged by our host. Well worth it. He was so good he landed the balloon on the truck trailer. We then drove to the underground city. We only went to one because two would have been redundant. This gave us at least two hours to explore the one while listening to the tour guides tell others all about the caves . On the way back we stopped at the castle above Goreme. Then back for dinner at Pumpkin restaurant. Monday morning we hiked Rose valley. WE didn't get very good directions so we went up one valley but ran out of time to see the side valley that had the church and really great rock formations. But, we did encounter a man who had set up a rest area at least an hour in to the valley, with couches and fresh squeezed orange juice at a fair price. Be sure and climb the chimney inside the cliff. We then went to the city of Zence on the way back to the airport. What would I have done differently? I would have given ourselves one more evening we we could see another canyon, done better research on the rose canyon and how to find the side canyon. And I wouldn't rent a car. We could have easily taken the bus from the airport to Goreme, and then taken the bus to the underground city, and rented a bike for going around town and to the rose valley. Yes, a car made it quicker, and if we were staying longer, the car would've been great for seeing more. I just would have rented one IN town after arriving by bus in order to save money. Goreme, despite being a tourist town, is a pretty town, especially at night. It was nice to walk around looking at lamps, rugs, and ceramics. There were no tourists which made it better, but hard for the businesses. Everywhere we went, we were usually the only people in the restaurant, especially after the holiday that week. Another thing I recommend, is don't travel during that week. All of Turkey is on holiday so things get a little crowded.
We then flew to Antalya and rented a car at the airport. This brings up my first complaint about Turkey, or rather specifically, Antalya. They have NO STREET SIGNS. It was a nightmare getting to our hotel in the old city. Downloading a google map of the route before hand when we had wifi would have helped da lot, plus using a phone compass. We also didn't realize that the old city has very restricted parking, which makes it a pedestrian area, and hence very quiet. We got checked in to Ninova hotel, which had a great garden area, and walked around along with tons of other locals. The old city has many boutique hotels, restaurants, and a fun night life where locals go. Plus, it has a local bazaar next to it, and it looks over the harbor. Because we run a gelato shop in Salt Lake City, we always make it a point to taste ice cream in other countries. We had our first experience with the goat milk ice cream where they play tricks on you with the cone. Fun, and the ice cream was good enough. The next day we drove to the Antalya museum where we saw many of the statues that had been taken from the ruins we were about to see. we had to drive up to termosos, which was easy to do. If you don't drive, you will need to get a taxi to the entrance, then hitch a ride from the entrance, which is just off the highway, all the way up the valley to the ruins. then you hike up a steep trail for about two kilometers to the ruins. They are FANTASTIC. The view from the amphitheater is astounding. I loved the fact that it was so mysterious. All the original stones are still there, but lying on the ground. they weren't hauled off because they were so remote. We couldn't figure out why they would build in such a remote place. We spent about five hours there, sitting, reading, drawing, and contemplating the arc of history. We look forward to coming back in twenty years, after they have restored the place.
On wednesday we drove out to ASpendos, then Perge and Side. I strongly recommend a car of this trip. otherwise, it would take you ALL day, getting up early to make all the bus connections. Each place had something different to offer. Nice was depressingly over un with shops etc. Nevertheless, very dramatic location. Be sure and stop along the highway and get your picture taken in front of the many weird large sculptures. returned car that night and took the bus from the airport back in to town and enjoyed more good weather. The next morning we took the bus to olympus, about two hours journey, to catch our 4 day boat cruise with V-GO. $250 per person. two things. Olympos is a weird "hippie" town of one continuous serious of restaurants and hostels connected by covered lounge areas divided by a narrow road with a constant traffic jam. It looks kind of fun, but also kind of boring after a while. From there, you take a bus to Demre where you start your actual cruise. This consisted of stopping at various places along the coast heading towards Fethiye. Wonderful sunsets, exploring the coast, etc. Highly recommend. V-GO was great. Too bad we never did any sailing. basically, all boats run their engines. be sure and get a cabin towards the front of the boat. less noise. You will spend most of your time on the deck, including sleeping. cabins are extremely small. When we arrived in Fethiye, we were kind of tired of being on a boat so we just stayed longer and tried to relax. we arrived around 2 pm and immediately walked down the war and found three car rental places. we rented a car and drove right out to Tlos and Panara. Wonderful views of the valley below, Panara was quiet and remote and great to see at sunset. the walls tombs going straight up a 150 meter cliff were astounding. The whole place Completely empty. Then back to our airbnb, which a very kind person helped us find when we got lost. Once agin, get very clear instructions on the address you are staying at along with a google map."Cute Garden Room Near Fethiye": Very clean, spacious, laundry, private garden with view. A few blocks from downtown. bikes available. Perfect after a long cruise. We made breakfast then walked around town and found an artisan gelato store recommended to us by a local. This place is wonderful. The young couple reminded us of ourselves ten years ago. Doing everything themselves and trying to make the best artisan gelato possible. Hardly anyone does that. "Baba Dondurma", Carsi Caddis, no 34, Fethiye. What would we have done differently? Sailed from Fethiye to Olympos, instead of the other way. Also, would have just arrived at FEthiye a day before their schedule time, and booked on location. Probably get a better price. There are at least two companies leaving almost every day. I would only do this during off season. It is so slow now that they cancel cruises even if you book ahead, so, you might be able to save money this way. and you can hang out in the charming town of Fethiye waiting for the cruise. i also would have given ourselves a little more time in Antalya to see the old city and wander around. This is the end of part one.