1. Altai or Baikal? 2. Trekking in Altai...

Hi All - I'll be doing a 12-day trek in Altai late July. Here is my question - how does the scenery at Lake Baikal compare to the Altai region (the bits with lots of lakes and waterfalls)?

I know we're comparing apples and oranges here, but if there are enough people telling me that Altai is better anyway, then I wouldn't bother redesigning my itinerary substantially in order to incorporate Irkutsk (for Lake Baikal).

By the way, the trek I'm doing in Altai is in the Belukha area (although I won't actually climb up Belukha). Has anyone ever done it? I'm a bit nervous about doing the whole trek with a 70 litre backpack. Any insight in terms of degree of difficulty of the trek (for someone with a reasonable amount of trekking experience, albeit without a 70L pack!), camping conditions etc. would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

It depends on where you are going around Lake Baikal. The south is pretty touristy with a lot of towns and industry. The further north you go, the more remote things get and the higher the mountains become. Irkutsk is a Soviet city like many others but with some significant historical events under its belt and well worth a day or two.

Baikal is a lake and the hiking and trekking there are in the hills on one side of the lake or along the lake shore.

The Altrai region is more like Switzerland, at least the part I was in. It is very different from the Baikal area. Different terrain and different local people.

Can you compare the Jura to the Alps or the Appalachians to the Rockies? One is not better than another.

Ruth

Thank you both. I know these places are all charming in different ways, and I'll certainly try to get to Lake Baikal if I can make it. However, I sort of get the feeling that, while it will be a shame if I have to skip it, I probably won't be kicking myself for the rest of my life...

OP, there are few routes to Mt. Belukha from Tungur (I hope you go from there): 1) up the Kucherla valley then crossing of high Karaturek pass 2) crossing of low Kuzuyak pass then ascent along Akkem gorge 3) up the Kucherla valley then so-called "horse trail" on the top of the ridge separating Kucherla and Akkem valleys 4) "upper" or right-side trail which goes high on the right bank of Akkem. Which one are you gonna take?
Despite the var. 3. is the shortest, I wouldn't recommend you take it for it is problematic camping there (shortage of water and firewood, strong winds). #4 is most interesting but the longest one (rare used now). #1 gives you most impressive view on Belukha. #2 is the easiest and most probably the shortest after #3. Usually, to avoid descend the same way, people go the loop #1 + #2. You can also a bit decrease the weight of your backpack by 2 ways: a) send a half of supply by pack horses to Akkem Lake (it is bargainable from about $30) or b) by buying the food/ meals on Akkem base.
There is a plenty of campsites on all routes except #3.

Best regards- Igor Fedyaev

Hi Igor - Many thanks for the tips. I'm actually doing a pre-organised trek with Altair (they're listed in LP, so I hope they're reliable!), because I want it to coincide with the total solar eclipse on 1 Aug, and the only way to ensure this seemed to be to book well in advance (some other eclipse trips were already fully booked when I inquired), especially given that I'll need an English speaking guide.

Roughly, my itinerary seems to be: Tyungur - Kuzuyak - Akkem - Karatyurek - Kucherla... This may be a combination of your #1 and 2?

I am slightly worried about the need to negotiate steep downward slopes and slippery / rocky paths with a huge pack on my back. I've been told that I'll need to pay for 2 horses (one for the horseman) if I go with the pack horse option, which will significantly add to the cost. Not sure what the food arrangement is though.

Yes, this is ##1 and 2 couple, but in reverse order. The most difficult part there is down part of descent from Karaturek pass (very steep narrow gorge of Tekelushka stream, some parts are also slippery). I would recommend to order a pack horse (yes, with horseman- 2 horses is minimal package) from Akkem lake to the junction Tekelushka-Kucherla (take into account the hiking route on descent from Karaturek is unpassageable for horses, so they should descend on "upper horse trail" then ascend to the junction along Kucherla - it might take the same whole day you need for Karaturek. Because often the horsemen return from Akkem empty after deliver the loads from Tungur, they might be interested in picking some loads for way back, so it might be bargainable. Basically, for the moment the pair horseman+pack horse costs 1200-1400 roubles per day ( $50-60) and they don't need to be payed for way back (as for the case you order horses to deliver loads to Akkem from Tungur for example).
The way to Akkem via Kuzuyak is not difficult, especially taking into account there is rural road over Kuzuyak pass and you can pick a car to so-called "3 Birches Glade". Ascent to Karaturek is steep but not slippery.
Take also into account it is better to have roubles for horsemen, USD and Euro are useless or bad rated there.

Best regards- Igor Fedyaev.

Thanks for the helpful information. I'll see if Altair could arrange a pack horse (or 2!) for me for the section you mentioned. However, I've been having difficulty getting any response from them on anything lately, which makes me a little nervous. I hope their prolonged silence is only because the only English-speaking person in their office has been away, and not because the whole company has disappeared in thin air with my EUR 100 deposit!