Baku, Tbilisi, Armenia or bust?

In my personal experience, and this is just me:
1. Baku was very expensive, and that coloured my view of Baku. I probably wouldn't spend there long if I had to go back. City centre was just like any other European city.
2. Yerevan was a Soviet hang over with an Armenian attitude, which I liked. Nearby attractions were close and made excellent day trips, good for photos, good scenery, excellent old monasteries. Try to go to a service in Echmiadzin. Would definitely go back.
3. Tbilisi tries very hard to shake off it's Soviet past. The old town was very photogenic. Not as many day trips as around Yerevan, but nevertheless interesting. Would definitely go back.

The problem with not going to one of these cities is that you'll never know what that city could be for you.

Wait, 8 days for 3 countries? Or are you asking which ones you should visit? If you only have 8 days, then it 2 nights Baku (overnight train to Tbilisi) 2 nights Tbilisi (overnight train to Yerevan) 2 nights Yerevan. It's simple math.

Hi,

Three countries in eight days? Not realistic.
Stay in one..
Which one? I don't know.
You can visit a capital city and move around for day trips.
Guidebook for Azerbaijan: Trailblazer.
Armenia and Georgia: Bradt (one for each country)
You will lost too much time in transports if you want to visit both with the proposed duration...

Michel

Edited by: mvbergen

This summer I spent time in Baku, Tbilisi and Yerevan (and in that order). I had nearly three weeks and wanted a quick sample of each country and have no regrets. I hope to return for longer stays in the future.

Baku is not great but I found it is interesting to see what life looks like overthere. Before visiting my knowledge hadn't stretched much further than the organisation of the Eurovision song contest a couple of years ago. It turned out there was a lot more to it. In one day (or one and a half) you'll probably see everything there is. The old city centre is rather Disneyland so don't expect authenticiy. I liked the modern arts museum (even though I was the only visitor there)

The night train connecting with Tbilisi is very nice, except for the bullying of the tough female train attendants. It's a lovely city to walk around in. If short for time, two days should do it.

And then spend the remaining time in and around Yerevan as you can easily do some day trips from there should you wish so. I particularly liked the Sunday markets and the house museum dedicated to the film director (name escapes me).

I thought the LP covering the three countries was sufficient for a short visit, certainly if only visiting the capitals and doing some day trips.

Have fun!

My opinions:

Baku is a quirky and certainly one-of-a-kind city. There's a weird mix of things here, from some medieval relics to some lovely Csarist-era architecture to all kinds of crazy oil-related sights, like burning hill-sides and mud volcanos. It's an odd place to spend a few days, but can certainly be interesting.

Tbilisi is the loveliest city of them all, by a mile. The old city is well-preserved, the Soviet ugliness is kept far from the city center, and the city is ringed with pleasant hills. There are also some interesting day-trips, and plenty of delicious Georgian food. Spend your most time here.

I didn't like Yerevan all that much. I found the city ugly, and oppressive Soviet architecture certainly dominates. The most interesting thing here, in my opinion, is a trip to the nearby town of Echmadzian, which has been the center of the Armenian church for centuries and centuries. I would spend the least time here if I was you; a day to take in Echmadzian and anything else you have time for should do, given your rather limited time scale.

I haven't been to Baku, but between Tbilisi and Yerevan those were my views precisely.

Tbilisi's a wonderful city for strolling (apart from crossing the major boulevards, when your life is in genuine danger), and not just in the tourist areas. Plus wonderful food: just passing by restaurants and smelling the cooking is a gourmet experience.

But Yerevan's another story. Can't think of a better word than "oppressive." It's the most planned city I've ever visited, and perhaps intriguing on that basis and that basis alone. Otherwise, it's the sort of place that gives you a headache.

If you can manage it, I'd suggest skipping Armenia.

@ 6

It's a pity to skip Armenia because you don't like Yerevan.
You have so much to see and a lot of opportunities for day trips from the capital city.

Michel

But on her schedule, she's only got two full days in Yerevan, and if she takes the overnight train she's going to be dead tired for at least the first day. It's not like she has a week to explore Armenia.

With just eight days total, I'd say it makes more sense to concentrate on Baku and Tbilisi.

Jeez, I had just decided but now they all seem even more attractive to me ...

To answer the questions. Given my druthers I would have liked to spend weeks and weeks in each and every one of these countries. Like old times when one was young. But in this period of my life eight full days is all I can get. Which is more than I've hoped for. So I will make the best of it. Three countries instead of only one is because I am a sucker for long distance trains, especially night trains. So a perfect route is to travel through the Caucasus by train. I am also addictive to crossing borders via land ...

I had pretty much decided to spend a day in Baku (maybe two) and a day in Tbilisi and spend the rest of the time in Yerevan and surroundings. So at least I do get a sense of at least one of the countries/areas. Mentioning that Yerevan is Sovietish and ugly just makes me wanna go there even more :-)

Thanks for all the input and tips. Keep 'em coming. Makes me dream and plan this smallish adventure even better. Can't wait. I just have to get the Azerbaijan Visa first ...